bluenc-87

Have a b20v that's going put a wet nitrous kit on. I know before tunning nitrous you have to fine tune all motor first. Then retard ignition 2 degrees for every expected 50hp. The question is with the fuel tunning. Do the tunner then adjust fuel to rich up the afr or is that done with the fuel nitrous line from the jets?

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

The better way to look at the issue is to "tune with nitrous".
A/F ratio and EGTs are the essential information and require some expensive investment in data logging and step tuning in the actual environment and fuel type to gain any significant safe tune.
Everybody that runs 100 or less hp shots are truly just hitting the button and hoping for the best. I have not seen anyone here capable of giving you a sound directive and assistance other than rules of thumb and pure speculation. A safe tune will have at least the above parameters covered with great looking plugs after each run.
You should really, really look into a pulsoid system from WON at the very least if you want to control and address traction issues with outstanding quality components guaranteed for life. No one in the US makes a solenoid valve worth a **** and will not warranty it either.

seelback

some of the stuff stated I have a general idea of what was said but your right. most people spray and pray. there's so much more to nitrous than just swapping jets and checking plugs.

Dallasb84

I sprayed prayed and the lord didn't hear me.

bluenc-87

Not sure if we on the same page, but i meant i am going to get it tune with nitrous right after the na tune. I was curious about how will the nitrous a/f ratio be rich'n up with on the first dyno/tune run? Would that be changing the fuel jet to set to 11.5 a/f or would that be set with ecu?

1st- Fine tune na to 13.5 a/f (wot).

2nd- Then fine tune to nitrous 11.5 a/f (wot). But with changing the fuel jets or ecu?

I'm sure the tuner will want it to be a little rich on the first dyno, then use ecu to adjust a/f to 11.5

bluenc-87

Or is this how the tuner will tune it:

1st- Fine tune na to 11.5 a/f or richer @ wot.

2nd- Then adjust tune a/f to 11.5 @ wot on nitrous.

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

You haven't stated your HP goal or system type.
Is it a wet system-adds fuel and nitrous with a fogger nozzle
Is it a dry system- adds nitrous only and the ECU adds the extra fuel required

Once your NA tune is great, adding nitrous is a balance act of correct jetting and plug reading right after a run shut immediately off, read plugs, etc.. It just takes time and most guys won't do the time.
Get a notebook and write down every variable you change and keep track of it all.
You must never mix fuels if you want consistent results. Always use the same fuel (best you can get) until the nitrous tune is spot on.
At least get an A/F gauge from AEM that quickly responds to changes and has failsafe settings for protection. It will also log data that is really useful.

A nitrous motor can last many seasons if not run into detonation. Nitrous in a combustion engine RADICALLY advances the fuel burn and if you have higher compression (11:1 greater), it will burn even faster. This is the ENTIRE reason you retard timing to allow the maximum cylinder pressure to be at or around 12 ATDC and NEVER before or the bottom will go bye bye. Also, it should never be activated without a window switch and never below the Vtec activation point. Bring it in at 5k rpm.
There is soo much more to say but I can't know what your doing until I get more info.

bluenc-87

Thanks for the reply. I did mention it's a wet kit. Planning on a 75whp shot. Goal is 260whp-290whp...I do have a nitrous NOS controller for window swith/wot (tps). Pump 93 gas. I have most part already. Only thing im worried about is the cast piston and cylinder wall cracking.

Build:

B20 Block
-Block Guard
-Rs Machine 81.5mm pistons (11:5 compression) I know cast is not good but all i have atm.
-Aftermarket Rods/Arp rod bolts
-All New Bearings
- Balance blocked
-GSR oil pump
-GSR Timing Belt


Head (B16)
-Supertech Springs
-OBX camshafts
-New Valve seals
-New f1 camgears
-Blox intake manifold/TB 68mm
-Lucas 325cc injectors
-Ngk 1 step colder plugs.

Build Thread: My CRX Build Thread - Carolina Hondas

bluenc-87

I was curious on how the fuel should be adjusted to run the first Nitrous test run. Do the tuner do it with the tuning program to run it excessively rich on first run or will it be adjusted through changing my Fuel jet to run it rich on first run test.

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Since this is a wet kit you are running, just make the correct jet sizes for the desired hp desired. The kit manufacturer will have a recommendation chart. If no chart is available, google the info but get the jets right or else. You can be on the safe side by going one jet larger on the fuel side until you get things worked out better and read the plugs.
75 hp is a realistic goal for a B20 and no worries on the cracking UNLESS you get it into detonation. The stock block can handle much more hp as long as the tune is not edgy. Keep the rpm under 8000 too if you want to keep running nitrous for this B20 and cast pistons.
Be aware of the goal
Be careful to plan well
Be ready to do some work
Be very very careful not to get a jet clogged! These are really small holes and can ruin your day.

Rob43

Bump for updates,....I'm curious.



Rob43

bluenc-87

End Up Blowing This Build Before Nitrous Was Put On. Now have a LS motor in for the mean time.

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