I'm having a hard time setting up everything for a perfect idle....

p72
S300
290cc lude injectors
Innovate lm-1

I've been reading hondata's basic tuning guide and its not helping at all.

Is there something you are suppose to do before another? Like a step process? adjust timing first before IACV? or the other way around etc etc...?

at the moment i can get the car to idle at 1500rpms, -20in vacuum, 14.7afr.....but its sitting in columns 3-4-5

I'm not entirely sure how i am suppose to set up the IACV, hondata explains in the help file...I've unplugged and adjusted the bypass screw and plugged it back in and cleared the code but it still idles high.....can some elaborate on this...

How am I suppose to sync timing(16 degrees) when I can't get it to idle correctly around 850-950?

Head:
GSR
DIY p&p
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams
Skunk2 Pro gears
Skunk2 Pro valve springs
Skunk2 Pro retainers
Skunk2 70mm TB
Skunk2 Pro intake manifold (p&p)
Hondata intake mani gasket
Eldebrock Performer X Intake manifold (p&p)
OEM valves
OEM gasket kit
milled .004(might get it cut again) + .010

Block:
GSR
81.25mm bore
decked .004
JDM P30 piston
OEM LS rods
OEM LS Crank
OEM main/rod bearings
ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
OEM 3 layer HG
OEM oil pump,water pump, seals, gaskets etc
OEM Civic SI crank pulley
Rotating assembly balanced

Exhaust:
Hytech Replica Tri-y header

Fuel:
Prelude 290cc injectors
Walbaro 255 hp fuel pump


Trans:
Exedy 9lb flywheel
Exedy stage 1 clutch

 

U sure you dont have a problem with he iacv sticking or defective? Have you tried changing the duty cycle on it?

 

can you email me the calibration?

blakesvtec AT yahoo.com

 

Sent you the calibration. let me know if you didn't get it

 

hmm, the calibration looks setup pretty well. I have seen before that people have problems with the basemaps idling too low or dying when you push in the clutch due to the stationary and moving idle settings being a little messed up.

is the idle fluctuating at all or does it just stay at 1500? Where does it idle at cold start?

how are the cam gears configured? Are you sure the cam timing is right? Did you make adjustments for the milling and decking?

If its just sitting at 1500 at operating temperatures then the IACV adjustment isnt going to do much as it is already sitting at "normal".

If everything is in check, try removing some ignition timing in the idle area and see if it will idle down.

 

It doesn't fluctuate at 1500...cold starts its at 2000ish and works it way down once at normal temps

I degreed the cams to +5 ex and +3 in. I never got the cam markings to line up horizontally, it was off like half a tooth. I'm not sure how do you make adjustments for milling and decking?

Something I did notice though....when using a completely unmodified map provided by hondata it will idle around 850-950ish roughly with an AFR of 19-22. Ill add fuel and the rpm will rise to 1500 once I get to 14.7 AFR

 

Check your base idle (throttle body position) and check for vaccum leaks.

 

I only have the brake booster and FPR vac hooked up. I hooked up an air compressor to check for vac leak and its good

TPS is set to .450 VDC

 

heres a video of my latest tune. i made changes to the iacv duty cycle to the lowest setting that helped with the rpm idle at 1000ish. I don't understand why the ign timing shows 13 but the map shows 16 degrees can someone explain



Can someone help me out here also with this.......when i rev to 2000-3000 it drops




Modified by 00b18b at 12:29 AM 6/10/2008


Modified by 00b18b at 12:30 AM 6/10/2008

 

anyone have any advice?

 

Your car is trying to idle lower. You can see by the actual ignition timing, teh IACV at lowest point, and it is still at 1000-1110.

You have a leak. Check the PCV if it is leaking.

 

did you synch the idle table ignition with what the distributor is at?

what is the check light?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your car is trying to idle lower. You can see by the actual ignition timing, teh IACV at lowest point, and it is still at 1000-1110.

You have a leak. Check the PCV if it is leaking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the pcv isn't even hooked up i only ran two vacuums to the manifold brake and fpr the rest of the fittings are sealed up

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you synch the idle table ignition with what the distributor is at?

what is the check light?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i believe so....timing gun is showing i'm at the red marker on the civic si pulley (16 degrees) and the tables around 500-1100 rpm are at 16 degrees.....is that how it should be...but i don't understand why the real time gauge shows 10-13 degrees?????

the routine maintenance light is on not check engine light

 

Go to Online, then set timming then set it to the degrees it say

 

wow this whole time i didn't even see that I was trying to figure out where hondata was hiding that feature since their help file doesn't show where it is....

oh and speaking of vacuum leaks.....i did hook up an air compressor to the fpr hose and pumped 50psi of air through the manifold...i did notice a considerable amount of air passing the throttle plate opening. i wasn't sure if that much air should be passing through it? i adjusted the stopper screw as much as i could to close the plate but its still letting air by. This is a skunk2 70mm tb btw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00b18b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow this whole time i didn't even see that I was trying to figure out where hondata was hiding that feature since their help file doesn't show where it is....

oh and speaking of vacuum leaks.....i did hook up an air compressor to the fpr hose and pumped 50psi of air through the manifold...i did notice a considerable amount of air passing the throttle plate opening. i wasn't sure if that much air should be passing through it? i adjusted the stopper screw as much as i could to close the plate but its still letting air by. This is a skunk2 70mm tb btw</TD></TR></TABLE>

Throw a stock TB on and see how it does. I bet the throttle body is at fault judging by what you just said.

 

Make sure your throttle isnt getting stuck and make sure your wideband is calabrated right.

 

Figured out the problem when the rpms drop at 2k......bad TPS

idles at 950 just fine but in the wrong columns (4-5)even with a stock gsr tb

wideband is definitely calibrated and cable is fine

 

If it's running fine and just not pulling that much vacuum, it's probably just your cams. I've seen some cams that use half the map (Crower 3s come to mind), it's totally fine.