eg-owns you

Good afternoon,

So I am getting back into the Honda game after some years of being out of it. I built my EG hatch about 7 years ago got it tuned and then it sat in my parent's garage up until October of last year. I finally moved it over to my house but had some serious issues getting it over to my house check engine light would just randomly come on and it would sputter hard and have no throttle. Well, now that is warm out I have some time to troubleshoot it. I data logged my drive and figured out I was throwing a code for TDC-error 8. I swapped the dizzy and set the advancement so that the middle notch on the crank pulley lined up with the timing mark on the cover. I took it out for a drive and I no longer had TDC error.

Now that I no longer have the TDC error I am having this weird random sputter and no throttle response. It can be under WOT or under any amount of throttle. I mainly only happens when coming off the line but some time happened when rolling. I noticed the problem is around 4-5k RPM's if I let off the throttle and let it idle for a second I can then give it throttle and it will drive normally. Well, I data logged it again today but was having a hard time getting it to act funny as it ran for a good 30 minutes before I could get it to sputter and lose throttle response.

I have my data logged and uploaded to google Google drive Is anyone good with watching these data logs and figuring out what the issue is? I think I am having a TPS issue but I have no idea at this point since I have been out of the game for quite some time.

The file named hiiiiiic is the shortest data log and it happens at the start of the recording when I start to move off the light.

Any help would be awesome thanks guys

eg-owns you

So looking at the graph view I notice that between 20-24 sec is when I had the no throttle stutter. So looking at the graph between 20-24 second my duty % dropped to 0% so that leaves me to believe I am having issues with my injectors? or could it still be something with the TPS sensor causing the duty issue?

?

motoxxxman

can you post your actual calibration? I downloaded and viewed the datalog, and your rev limiter is activating, though I have no idea why.

eg-owns you

If you are talking about the tune, I just placed it in that google drive as originalkingtune.skl.

motoxxxman

well that's interesting; I can't find any reason why the rev limiter would be kicking in. I'm wondering if the file in the ecu has gone corrupt, or the hondata unit is bad.
Try this first: key on, laptop plugged in, go the the "online" tab, click "erase ecu" at the bottom. Once it finishes, turn the key off, close smanager, and unplug the cable from the laptop. Then turn the key back on, plug back into the laptop, reopen smanager and your tune, and click upload. then key off for a couple seconds, key back on again, and start it and go for a drive.
If the above fixes it, great. If not, I would suspect something wrong with the hondata unit. In which case you'll want to post in the hondata forums and tell them the rev limiter is engaging randomly with no apparent reason. Post the calibration file and a datalog file of it happening.

eg-owns you

Thank you for looking at it! I am really hoping it's not a bad ECU/Hondata, the car literally had not moved in like 6+ years and sat in the garage.

Alright, The issue is though that I pulled the calibrations from the ECU about a month ago so if it was corrupt wouldn't that pull back corrupted too? I just want to make sure before erasing the ECU.


I am going to post in their forum I completely forgot that they had one.

motoxxxman

Usually, but not always. It's worth a try either way.

theYBLEGAL

I suggest first open the ECU and check for bad capacitors/smell for fish/visually inspect.

eg-owns you

Yup, that was my plan to look over the ECU for any bulging caps or blackened resistors. I am no stranger to board repairs. I will keep this thread updated with what I find. I wont have time until the weekend to work on it.

eg-owns you

I had a chance to kick the tires last night for a bit!

-- I pulled the ECU out and checked over it for any blacken diodes or bulging caps. The ECU was in really good shape. I removed the S300 and resat it as well. I have added some pictures of the ECU maybe I missed anything?

-- I checked over my ground cables, the transmission ground and valve cover ground are in great shape they were brand new cables when I installed them many years ago. The thermostat housing ground was not so great the ground had a lot of corrosion and I mean A LOT..... I unbolted the ground and wire brushed the corrosion off tell everything was clean again and bolted it back.

-- I started up the car and let it warm up then took it for a drive. I was out for about 40 minutes and not once could I get it to fuel cut like it was. I even did some launches from a stop to WOT with 0 hesitation or hiccups. I don't know if the thermostat ground or me reseating the S300 in the ECU did the trick but right now the car is driving like a damn champ.

-- I will update this with any more data logs if I end up having any more issues.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I hope this wasn't a fluke! I will be taking it out and about this weekend so we shall see. I can not wait to get back out on the track!

motoxxxman

I don't see any damage from any capacitors leaking. I do however see that the main capacitor is still original, and that should always be replaced, as it is always the first to leak and cause issues. I also see something else I'm going to PM you about...

eg-owns you

Yup! Everything is original in this ECU. I did the original s300 install myself, back in the day when all this stuff was new to the market. I have had this car since I was 16 I am 31 now so it been through a lot for me but this s300 has kicked *** the whole way through.

theYBLEGAL

The T-stat ground is ultra important! That would make complete sense for the wonky behavior. The reason your engine sensors have a ground wire and don't just ground to the motor is because they all have to share the identical ground characteristics. The sensors find ground by passing thru the ECU, and the ECU grounds to the T-stat. Bad grounds keep power from draining from the sensor, add resistance, and those things skew readings.

I've had my 2000 Civic since 2003, when I was 16, and now I'm 31 too. My B16 is at 200k+ and the EJ8 is at 257k. Let's keep em rockin! I never feel old when I'm driving the Civic