What is the best and easiest way to force 100% open loop and be able to switch easily back to closed loop operation ? For tuning purpose only when in open loop. Is there somewhere a simple switch could be installed in conjunction with a resistor maybe? Also when forced into open loop will the ecu throw a cell?

 

Crome has a disable o2 sensor which would turn it off without check engine light, as do most tuning software. If you are tuning it anyway you should be able to turn it on and off.

 

If i was to simply unplug the NB o2 sensor at the socket, would this force open loop or it just goin to throw a bunch of red flags at the ecu? Or maybe if i installed a switch on the o2 signal wire and left the heater connected would this work. Just throwing around some simple forced open loop ideas. What do you think?

 

How about unplugging the coolant temperature sensor would this force open loop? Would it throw a cell? I am thinking of trying it and if it works well then installing a switch on the signal wire, this could be a good way to go from closed to open loop at flip of a switch. Anouther way also I am running a aem fic, so running the signal to a spare channel and flipping it from percent to voltage with a map of 0 in all cells should be able to force open loop then flipping from voltage to percent should allow stock sensor signal and again closed loop. Anyone ever tried any of this. Would be a great help! Thanks

 

Why would you disable a crucial sensor of the pgmfi algorithym?

Unplugging the 02 will force it into open loop but will also flag a check light.

 

I just want to force open loop for tuning then switch back to closed for driving. Does it sound like I am goin about this in the correct way?

 

No.

 

there is closed loop disable in the software. just re-enable after tuning.

 

I don't think there is a option to disable the closed loop on the aem fic. Do you know where to find this option in the software? I have to activate open loop somehow to successfully complete my tuning.

 

Does anyone know how to force open loop the correct way using a aem fic?

 

Does anyone know how to force open loop thru the aem fic or know a way to force open loop thru the factory p14 ecu. What is the correct way to force open loop so I can do my tuning then switch back to closed loop. A switch somewhere or simply unhooking something I would prefer a switch so I can do this on the fly. Any ideas of the correct way would be great!

 

There is not. That is not how you tune the FIC anyway. You should research how to tune the FIC a little more. To elaborate you tune the O2 tables so that the short term and long term fuel trims are as close to 0 as possible, you then tune the "fuel map" to add and subtract fuel from the factory map.

 

So what you are saying is that the fic is programed in closed loop? Makes sence how it is working now a little more to me. But if the fuel is adjusted in closed loop won't the ecu undo any changes I make? Also I have (just out of curiosity) wired the coolant temperature sensor to a spare channel of my aem fic just in attempt to force the open loop. Looks like I really don't need it in open loop and have my doubts it will actually force it to open loop, since I do believe that the coolant temp is just a adjustment on top of the base map not a open loop map. Not sure yet if it will work and why I would need to do it anyhow....

 

That would be true but the fic outputs signal to the O2 sensor. That is why you have to tune the O2 table.

Don't try to change the temperature the ect sensor is reading. Fuel trims are adjusted based on ect. Anything you would change to force open loop will affect your fuel trims thereby negating all your tuning. Stop trying!

 

The FIC is a piggyback and it relies on the OEM ECU for it to be tuned and operate properly. If you try and change the OEM sensor output/signals you are defeating the purpose of the FIC. This includes the O2 sensor.

If you don't already have the instructions; link -> FI/C instructions. I suggest you give all 24 pages a read before continuing!

 

Thanks makes much more sense now!

 

Open - starter ground = resistance
Closed end - water temp power = Opposite but no codes either end!

Right?

 

What does this have to do with the OP's question?


Open = resistance or no continuity in a circuit. Power does not flow properly from it's source to it's destination in the circuit.

Closed = continuity or little to no resistance in a circuit. Power flows as intended from it's source to it's destination in the circuit.