Fantasy D16 Setup
First off, sorry mods if this is in the wrong spot.
So a couple of months ago i was driving my 72 chevy nova wich has a 454 in it. (Pro street setup basicly, NOS + built engine, suspension etc...) and a honda civic started pacing me so of course being the naive guy that i was i started going faster, and then the civic blew me out of the water. Probably a funny story to most of you guys but i am getting to the point. I met the guy that smoked me and he talked me into getting a honda. So i bought one for a pretty decent price and these are the specs.
motor:
-d16y7
-y8 intake mani.
-450 cc injectors.
-walbro 255.
-B&M FPR.
-Y8 fuel rail.
-turbonetics T3 60 trim BB ( polished cold side ).
-TiAL 38mill EXT WG.
-log cast mani.
-Greddy FMIC.
-Greddy Type S bov.
-Greddy charge piping.
-Slim fan ( flex a lite )
-performance rad
-2.5" exhaust with a JDM tanabe axle back.
-red top battery.
-T1R voltage stabalizer.
-Exedy stage 1 clutch kit.
Wheels:
-New Konig heliums
-Skunk 2 extended lugs.
Handeling:
-H&R race springs.
-SRR Rear Camber Adjustable Kit
-SRR 19mm rear anti-roll bar
-SRR Rear Lower Struct Brace
-SRR Aluminum Rear Control Arm
-J's racing C piller bar.
Breaking:
-Stop tech drilled rotors.
-Hawk performance pad.
-stainless break lines.
-new fluid.
EXTERIOR MODS.
-JDM CTR spolier.
-Spoon sports CF mirrors.
Interior :
-more less stock everything is in good shape.
-Pro sport boost gauge.
-prosport oil pressure gauge.
-prosport water temp.
-A/M pedels.
-Pioneer MP3 / WMA deck.
-pioneer door speakers.
-SiR gauge cluster.
So what i want to know is what i should keep, and what is junk that should get replaced. i also want to know what i should add. Keep in mind i heard that K20a engines are pretty nice so i think i would like to pick one of those up in the near future, but that is worth a completely different thread. i just would like to hear what you guys have to say about this engine, and whether what i got is a decent setup or if i can improve and in what areas, and what i should get....or get rid of. thanks for the time.
So a couple of months ago i was driving my 72 chevy nova wich has a 454 in it. (Pro street setup basicly, NOS + built engine, suspension etc...) and a honda civic started pacing me so of course being the naive guy that i was i started going faster, and then the civic blew me out of the water. Probably a funny story to most of you guys but i am getting to the point. I met the guy that smoked me and he talked me into getting a honda. So i bought one for a pretty decent price and these are the specs.
motor:
-d16y7
-y8 intake mani.
-450 cc injectors.
-walbro 255.
-B&M FPR.
-Y8 fuel rail.
-turbonetics T3 60 trim BB ( polished cold side ).
-TiAL 38mill EXT WG.
-log cast mani.
-Greddy FMIC.
-Greddy Type S bov.
-Greddy charge piping.
-Slim fan ( flex a lite )
-performance rad
-2.5" exhaust with a JDM tanabe axle back.
-red top battery.
-T1R voltage stabalizer.
-Exedy stage 1 clutch kit.
Wheels:
-New Konig heliums
-Skunk 2 extended lugs.
Handeling:
-H&R race springs.
-SRR Rear Camber Adjustable Kit
-SRR 19mm rear anti-roll bar
-SRR Rear Lower Struct Brace
-SRR Aluminum Rear Control Arm
-J's racing C piller bar.
Breaking:
-Stop tech drilled rotors.
-Hawk performance pad.
-stainless break lines.
-new fluid.
EXTERIOR MODS.
-JDM CTR spolier.
-Spoon sports CF mirrors.
Interior :
-more less stock everything is in good shape.
-Pro sport boost gauge.
-prosport oil pressure gauge.
-prosport water temp.
-A/M pedels.
-Pioneer MP3 / WMA deck.
-pioneer door speakers.
-SiR gauge cluster.
So what i want to know is what i should keep, and what is junk that should get replaced. i also want to know what i should add. Keep in mind i heard that K20a engines are pretty nice so i think i would like to pick one of those up in the near future, but that is worth a completely different thread. i just would like to hear what you guys have to say about this engine, and whether what i got is a decent setup or if i can improve and in what areas, and what i should get....or get rid of. thanks for the time.
What are your goals for the car ( If any) Can't really say what I would get or get rid of without knowing what your trying to do. Are you trying to get a certain hp level, or certain time at the track or what?
Seems like a decent normal setup,If you don't expect huge performance gains out of it.
Seems like a decent normal setup,If you don't expect huge performance gains out of it.
ya i know that im not going to get insane power...i think that i am pushing around 200 horse right now...i would really like to push 250-300 without putting to much strain on my engine...i mean having 300 horse in an ek can pretty much get anything out there. i am not looking for insane crazy numbers i just want something that is comfortable that i can drive from point A to point B relatively fast.
I don't know anything about engines, but those Konigs have to go...
Those are low quality wheels, and I wouldn't recommend them. They are just as bad as Rotas and Tenzos. If you are going fast and you hit a pothole, bye bye front lip/bumper. Search google for some tragic accidents involving those bad-quality wheels.
In addition, get Ray's locking lugnuts to protect your wheels. It's going to be worth it in the long run.
Go with either Volks or Work wheels. I have the Work Emotion CR-KAI and they look fantastic on my car:


Yeah, I have a D16y7 like you too, but I'm not going to be doing anything drastic to my engine.
Nick from N1Concepts told me the best route would be to swap it to a GSR engine (check with your state laws regarding swaps and emissions). You will have to switch to B18c, either in its JDM or USDM form. Once again, I advise you check up on swaps. B18C is JDM, B18C1 is USDM.
Click this link to know more:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/jdm-b18c-usdm-b18c-diference-2337715/
As quoted by an H-T member, "the jdm motor has higher compression...U.S spec is 10.1 comp, 170 hp and 121 trq.. while the JDM is 10.6 comp, 180 hp and 126 trq."
Where do you live, anyways?
So there you go. You can start from there. Get a full swap, but instead switch it over to a K20a transmission, as told by Nick from N1Concepts. Because it comes from an RSX, it has a stronger transmission and can hold down a lot of power. I'm pretty sure it can handle 300 HP, with no problem.
So if you have the money, sell your engine and transmission, (fully swap it out) and take out your Konigs. Put in better wheels, and then the engine, and it'll be better.
That's just my 2 cents.
By the way, I have a few questions regarding your suspension.
1. Are you running on stock struts? You only said you had lowering springs, but are they with full coilovers or stock?
2. What kind of EK is this? Coupe, sedan? Year? Pictures would help too.
3. Just to make sure, are the rear brakes disc or drum brakes?
Those are low quality wheels, and I wouldn't recommend them. They are just as bad as Rotas and Tenzos. If you are going fast and you hit a pothole, bye bye front lip/bumper. Search google for some tragic accidents involving those bad-quality wheels.
In addition, get Ray's locking lugnuts to protect your wheels. It's going to be worth it in the long run.
Go with either Volks or Work wheels. I have the Work Emotion CR-KAI and they look fantastic on my car:


Yeah, I have a D16y7 like you too, but I'm not going to be doing anything drastic to my engine.
Nick from N1Concepts told me the best route would be to swap it to a GSR engine (check with your state laws regarding swaps and emissions). You will have to switch to B18c, either in its JDM or USDM form. Once again, I advise you check up on swaps. B18C is JDM, B18C1 is USDM.
Click this link to know more:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/jdm-b18c-usdm-b18c-diference-2337715/
As quoted by an H-T member, "the jdm motor has higher compression...U.S spec is 10.1 comp, 170 hp and 121 trq.. while the JDM is 10.6 comp, 180 hp and 126 trq."
Where do you live, anyways?
So there you go. You can start from there. Get a full swap, but instead switch it over to a K20a transmission, as told by Nick from N1Concepts. Because it comes from an RSX, it has a stronger transmission and can hold down a lot of power. I'm pretty sure it can handle 300 HP, with no problem.
So if you have the money, sell your engine and transmission, (fully swap it out) and take out your Konigs. Put in better wheels, and then the engine, and it'll be better.
That's just my 2 cents.
By the way, I have a few questions regarding your suspension.
1. Are you running on stock struts? You only said you had lowering springs, but are they with full coilovers or stock?
2. What kind of EK is this? Coupe, sedan? Year? Pictures would help too.
3. Just to make sure, are the rear brakes disc or drum brakes?
Last edited by Westtz; Aug 5, 2009 at 04:16 PM.
ya i know that im not going to get insane power...i think that i am pushing around 200 horse right now...i would really like to push 250-300 without putting to much strain on my engine...i mean having 300 horse in an ek can pretty much get anything out there. i am not looking for insane crazy numbers i just want something that is comfortable that i can drive from point A to point B relatively fast.
One of the best y7 setups I've seen 350+hp and still has ac.You don't have to keep your y7 but it will save you money using it.
300 is no problem for a built motor D. It's possible to do 300 on the stock motor ( look at go-autoworks 300hp d15b) but I wouldn't call it reliable.
I personally have 324 in my D powered hatch and i'm going back for more
well to answer a few questions i live in canada...and the honda is my third car that i have bought...i figured i want to build a sick daily commuter thats all...i have a nissan skyline gtst with an ls1 swap...i enjoy building cars and i get to do it on a daily basis...but i cant pull up to my shop in just a regular honda...i guess thats what im trying to get at...
Other thing, i started a custom auto shop with a few buddies and we all threw some money together...and well business is good cause no one up here really does custom stuff....funny enough none of us ever wanted to deal with honda's until recently...so ya im just lookin to build somethin fun and fast but can be driven constantly... and well i also just want to learn and brush up on these cars...so i would kind of like a pro touring setup...
so this is the car as it sits....



so i think thats how the pictures work...correct me if they dont...thanks..
Other thing, i started a custom auto shop with a few buddies and we all threw some money together...and well business is good cause no one up here really does custom stuff....funny enough none of us ever wanted to deal with honda's until recently...so ya im just lookin to build somethin fun and fast but can be driven constantly... and well i also just want to learn and brush up on these cars...so i would kind of like a pro touring setup...
so this is the car as it sits....




so i think thats how the pictures work...correct me if they dont...thanks..
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well since its my thread i dont really feel bad doing this....but yes i agree go with a gsr engine....thats what i love about canada...no laws about engine swaps, and i live in victoria...so we dont have to pass air care...its great...anybody have any reviews on the k20a...thats kinda what i would like to pick up...
the only problem with a k-series, is the higher cost. they have been out long enough that there are really no loose ends and you won't have to fabricate anything (unless you want to). if you want it to drop in and look good and function well, you are looking at $1500-$3000 for parts to make it drop in. I personally like the k20 and if I had a better income, my ek would have a k20. the engine and tranny you would want wouldn't be too expensive ($1000-$2000), I have heard the k20a (not type-s) is a better motor if you are planning on boosting your k. overall, I would say you are looking at spending $3000-$6000 all said and done (assuming you do all your own labor).
If the k-series is what you want, don't let anyone on this site tell you different. there are people making crazy power on built d16s, b16s, b18s, and k20s, so whatever engine you want, can make power so go with what you want
If the k-series is what you want, don't let anyone on this site tell you different. there are people making crazy power on built d16s, b16s, b18s, and k20s, so whatever engine you want, can make power so go with what you want
ok so now back to the nitty gritty...just picked up the car yesterday, it was sitting at a buddies house for storage cause i was working on some other projects...i have about 1200 bucks for starts on this one..so i am thinkin forged rod+pistons, sleeved block, z6 head...how does that sound...correct me if i am making no sense...i only want to spend about 1200 as a start up price...once she gets going ill spend more but i am almost finished with another project and it is taking up about 40 percent of my time...so ya suggestions and advice would be very helpful
yeah, i would stick with the d-series on that budget, you'll spend most (all) of your budget to just put a b-series in it, and you'll be far from a k-series, stay d for now, just my 2 cents.
You can make decent power with a D series motor with forged pistons (Vitaras are a cheap way to make that happen). If you can get a deal on headwork, that will help too. That, with big cams and a decent tune, would make for a solid daily driver. If you search in the FI forums, you will find dynos and build descriptions for a variety of D series motors. If they look like they are sufficient for your goals, you are in good shape.
If you want to make a LOT of power, you are looking at swapping in a different motor.
If you want to make a LOT of power, you are looking at swapping in a different motor.
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