i'm stuck on tuning my car right now. my current setup b16a with y1 lsd, gsr cams, blox 68mm, blox manifold, aem gear set 0,0. obd0-1 running chip p28. two thing i running across, i was running lc1 wideband, and it was damage from my friend car wreck. so i using aem wideband, the reading from crome pro a/f are different then aem. (i set it in the setting to aem wideband) i was using a rom of xenocron, it give me a very nice tq, lagging little in vtec. the rom was tune with s2s2 cams, other then i have about the same mod it got, i using that map to retune my car, it run good, but it always don't fill as strong as stock map in vtec. the stock map in vtec pull very hard specially in 6-8. but my a/f are very lean. so i decide to start over with p30 map and retune with my engine.
i was able to tune good before vtec, it stay around 13.0 to 12.8. as soon vtec hit, i climb up to 15 to the gauage that can't even read.
i manually add more fuel, and didn't help me any, i try auto adjust still not helping much, i don't know becuz may be auto tune not increase enough. i don't have a romulator, so is pain in the *** to burn and retune. but it have to do until then.
any place anyone suggest for me to read into more detail on tuning crome pro? i already read on crome tuning and also aem book.
i m not sure what i doing wrong. i tuned 2 cars, one d16 and one lsvtec, i was able to tune those by doing what i done on my own car, but since like i having alot of trouble getting mine into right range.
thx

 

This engine is hurt forsure,stop tuning and do a compression test.

 

I checked cr already 211,209,209,210 I put the other Rom in and using it to tune, wot at 11.5 most low cam wot at 13. I be using the auto adjust. Trying to bring the map closing to target.

 

If its an N/A build I doubt you hurt the engine, you can get away with a lot more mistakes persay when your N/A, now with boost it would likely be toast.

Ideally at WOT shoot for a 12.5-13.0 AFR and play with it from there on a dyno to find what the engine wants as they are all different.

 

targeting 12.5-13.0 on a boosted application is not good wont last long.Targeting a 11.5-12.0 will last.crxb16a90 pm me your .bin file or post it up,I could help you out,i have dyno tuned maps that i did that will work for you or i could make some changes to your current bin.

 

I can't see where the OP said he was boosted.... I took it as an N/A build.

 

Ooops my bad,sry hard to read what he is saying when you've had a few.

 

sorry i didn't clarify what i running

b16a NA, stock internal. y1 LSD tranny in 90 crx si
gsr cams, blox manifold, blox 68mm tb tuner series, aem adjustable cam gear set at 0,0. dc sport 4-1 header, full catback with cat 2.5 inch. gsr dizzy, obd1 jumper. p28 running crome pro. i still burning chip, until i get money to get ostrich. i have to stick with burning chip.

i have tuned 3 cars, all of them are successful, 1 turbo 2 NA, all of them got where need to be. but i dont know whats up with my car, may be is my car i having a lot problem getting mine set need to be.

i tuned a lsvtec, it was hard at first but i got it around 12.5 wot, which his motor like it around that.

i usually start with idle adjust get it around 14-15 idle, then 13 low cam and low 12 vtec. ign stock, i don't like to mess with that too much, sometime i give a .50 on it. i use auto adjust to tune to close to where i need, then i manually go in to fine tune the final part. i decide to get mine retune, cuz i got cams and tb install. the more i auto adjust the more trying to pull idle and low cam fuel in 12 or below. on low cam part throttle is seeing 14.8 and up to 15.2, during vtec it hit around 11.5 to lowest 10.9. so i was like *** it i start over with p30 base map. then i was lean all over the place, which i expect some, but didn't think i would be at 20!!, powerband suck all the way till 6-8, then it pull hard, now i don't know becuz it was so damn slow until it pull better or what. i only able to street tune, no dyno near by.
so i got mad so i start with gsr map, then i run rich on some area except vtec. the car pull werid, just really don't feel power. of cuz my butt dyno wasn't working at that moment. but anyway, i just **** off at it right now, it just some reason i get everyone tuned perfect or near, but i can't get mine anywhere close.

my next plan is to use the ruedendyno tune map off xenocron.com, which i use that one in the beginning of the tune anyway. and i going to play with idle and offset settings. then i going back and do my target a/f higher and then auto tune, then go back fine tune and see. i still little new at this, not of *** up till i get it right. two things i think it making it harder for the tune, is one i don't think the auto tune is really working the best, i think it adjust some but not enough. the second that 68mm tb is making it harder to tune. since i install it, during cold start it won't kick in cold start idle. i have to press in the gas pedal to keep it up or it will die or sometime it won't start without open the tb a little bit. i don't i need more fuel or less, i figure may be less. sorry i thnking a solution and typing this the same time, so it may be don't make sense what i wrote.
if there's a better explain toturial that break down crome even more detail then it be great. thx

 

If you've calculated your Vtec crossover according to DYNO results, mind your base ignition table for any mystery faults.
Don't arbitrarily smooth maps, I don't even know why they have that option.
Otherwise, be sure your Advanced Vtec settings properly reflect ALL tables.

 

PS it's really hard to help you with all that ADHD garble, consider revising before you submit.

 

I was reading along and you say you have a 68mm tb which is pretty big for your setup but wouldnt cause an error.... then i noticed you said that it didnt idle !!! Did you by any chance adjust the idle speed screw meaning warmed up Iac unpluged, if not that could be a problem with idle

 

depends on your fuel, mine makes its most power in the 12.2-12.4 range under 18 psi, 11.50s it looses noticeable power

 

yes i notice smoothing the map, does cuz a problem, i stop using it after i did more tuning.

 

i retune the map yesterday

work on the idle, and i made the most low rpm, the crusing and part throttle around 14.0 to 13.4:1, on wot is about 13.0 before vtec. and 12.8 to 12.5. it feels a better. but what strange is the motor on 6-8 pull better on stock map, which around 14.

gonna work on it some more tom, repost here. and also i try to upload my bin too.


ps. i'm all motor not turbo. but really thx for everyone help thu.

 

You are missing out on most of the power gains by leaving the ignition tables stock. After I street tuned the fuel on my 2.0L when I first put in cams (fuel was perfect + basemap timing), I gained 32whp on just timing changes.

You should really get on a dyno and tune your WOT ignition columns, then interpolate the rest.

 

about that whole get on a dyno and tune wot..... umm if your on the dyno you might as well spend a lil more time and money and tune for mbt threw out the whole map !!!! youll get way better throttle reasponse and always have gains not matter where that pedal is

 

Then try copying desired segments of your stock maps onto your adjusted .bin -- make sure to highlight the correct segments, and check the graphs for any odd slopes.

Fuel burns most efficiently at 14.7:1 AF. At higher rev & pressure it's harder to burn petrol efficiently without adding octane, so get those last 2 or 3 columns to ~13.5:1, and dyno the timing to maximize the burn duration in the cylinders.

 

sorry been super busy, well will upload my rom today, and also going back to redo my map into 13.4-.13.5, right now is around 12.8-13.4 on wot, driving is mostly in 14

i spend a lot of time getting very close to target and i can hear and feel my engine operating smoothly. may be just me, but u know like a brand new car when u accel u feel that engine just working and running smooth.
idle running great, start up a lot easier but still cold start, my engine not so happy with that. but power is great, at lot of low end tq and accel is amazing. i think i can play with the a/f little bit more.

i not messing with timing and i know i missing some power there, but i don't have a dyno near by, and i m not done with my car yet.
i have 3 main plan going in it. itr cams with blox spring and ti, or blox cam and blox sp and ti. 2. gsr bottom end, sorry i love b16a but really to see more tq gsr block is the answer, and future plan with gsr block is LS crank and forged internal with stock cr and boost 12lbs, so i leaving me room to play with 3, porting my blox mani to match port with 68mm tb and hondata gasket and match port head, and those will be in 2 months plan. so i would have to retune again, so once everything done then i spend my money to dyno tune mine.

i think i need to run little bit close to 13.5 on top of rpm, it pull hard until 7k to 8k. it feel need a little close to 13.4-5, right now is at 12.8. the 68mm tb is fine, 100percent on wot, i do notice just a little percent of opening and the engine respond much quicker. i can tell u that the 68 tb is a good choice, when i install the blox mani with 56mm i lost power, when put 68mm and it may a huge different, i felt a lot tq back, and when i put gsr cam in it, i feels stronger all the way thu, so i would like to see what itr really will do, i can get a set for 150. may be i try it out. lol

but i will post my rom after get off work, and i really thanks everyone input, i for sure learn a lot from u guys!

 

Yep, lean out just a little on WOT, you should notice a difference at the seat.

The LS block is no match for the GSR. Better crank & stroke, higher rev, oil squirters, and a better gear ratio for that matter.

Lots of people will argue about this, but I guarantee you GSR owners repair their engines less often.

 

I know that this is an old thread, but it brings up something I'm dealing with that relates to OP's crome tuning situation.

The Base Ignition Timing area in 'Advance Tables' in Crome.

When people are tuning their setups, are they even noticing that this is here?

https://i.imgur.com/2Cl14xI.jpg

I say this because the wisdom, for a lightly modified b-series motor, that 'advancing ignition timing more stops being an advantage after a certain rpm' seems to be thrown out the window with this.

I'm tuning now using the Gold ROM, where this doesn't seem to exist.

But due to this addition of, say, 10+ degrees of advance at 7000rpm... doesn't this affect things, or is this just for idling or something?

It would seem like, since I'm being sure to retard ignition timing at high RPM and boost (to, you know, avoid detonation), that I'd want to set this entire 'base ignition advance' table at 0, and manually modify the tables appropriately.

What this would imply (if people are leaving it --- and in almost every Xenocron Bin, this is LEFT ALONE) that ignition is to advance continually as RPM increases, and either it doesn't affect anything under load OR everyone's wrong about how much advance they're actually running. And, as an anecdotal thought, blowing up their tuned turbo cars.

Am I crazy, or should this be set at 0 if I'm tuning my car from scratch?

Again, this doesn't seem to be in the Gold ROM, and I've tossed stock GSR ignition maps in there for my LS/VTEC setup. But I am inclined to set all of these 'Base Ignition Table' settings at 0, rather than follow the huge amount of advance that's here...

anyone with any wisdom about this? And/or wisdom of whether this is even happening on the Gold ROM in the background (and just isn't modifiable?)

 

Setting up a base map in Crome Gold on a mostly stock GSR with cold air intake.

When I'm throwing tables from a stock P72 ECU (like ignition) into a Crome Gold ROM, should I be adding 10* advance at 6000, 12* at 7200, 8* at 4800 (etc etc etc) proportionally?

Since 'Base Ignition Timing' is not available in Crome Gold?

At around 8000 rpm, that puts the motor at over 40* advance at wide open throttle... That seems like a lot. Is this right for a basically stock GSR?