Hey guys I need a base map for Hondata S300v3:
My email address is tien3585@yahoo.com

-AEM Wideband and phantom boost gauge
-GSR 81mm block
-9.0:1 CP pistons and rings
-LS H-beam eagle rods ARP rod bolts w/ standard ACL bearings
-LS crank
-Golden eagle oil squirters block off kit
-GSR tranny

-GSR Head
-CTR cams with super tech dual valve springs and keepers
-Adjustable BWKRS cam gears
-RC 1000cc
-Omni bar map sensor
-Garrett turbo (715583-5006) 70 AR housing/ 63 exhaust side
-2.5in exhaust down pipe to 2.75in indivia exhaust system
-38mm turbonectics wastegate w/ blue spring (5-7psi)

Let me know if you need more information. This is my first on getting base map from online through email so can someone tell me how to load it to my hondata S300???

Thanks

bump. Goin to start it up with stock injectors and stock map sensor what base can I use on Hondata to start it up?

Thanks for the reply. I don’t have a stock ecu, this is the only ecu that I’ve had when I ran it na. Is the stock base map USDM p72 on the s300 good for start up and breaking in my rings before I got dyno?

Last night I tried to start it up on stock base map USDM p72 and wouldn’t start, so I came to find out some idiot that gave me the distributor had messed with the key that slips into the cam had it backwards and my number 1 plug wasn’t lined up with the rotor. So I flipped the key the other way and it lines up perfectly and still doesn’t start.
I’m thinking it may be the ICM inside the distributor went bad. I still have my old distributor that I used with when na ( it had a leaky seal inside distributor is the reason why I swap to a different one) I may have to swap the ICM.

ok ok I changed back to my old distributor that I know works cause I had it running recently before I did the rebuild. I disconnected the I/C pipe from throttle body and still no start. I checked for fuel ( pulled hose on end of fuel rail fuel squirts out a lot) and then I checked spark plugs pulled out one by one and has good spark. And compression has not yet been checked but I can see it blowing fuel out the spark plug hole when I was checking spark.

also I have a check engine light on for IACV. I can push on the gas/ throttle plate And it starts right on but sounds like poo. Could the IACV cause me for no start conditions???

I had had one go bad but it would start and fluctuate idling but never had it cause a no start.... I didn’t have no sensor mixed as I just checked to make sure and everything is plugged in the right spots

ok I’ll try cleaning the IACV with brake clean and check the plunger to see if it’s stuck closed. I don’t have anyone near that has a stock ecu. Im goin to recheck tomorrow morning if I got all the vacuum hoses connected. I can’t remember but I think I forgot to hook up one hose that goes on the back of the intake manifold ( not the big hose but the small hose ) is that small one a coolant hose or vacuum???

Checked my IACV this morning and connected it to battery and it clicks so I don’t think that’s the problem even though code is showing code14. Checked all hoses and their in the right position. I’m goin to try switch out injectors for another set I have laying around and I’m goin to rent a compression tester from Autozone and check main relay...

is is there anything else I should check???

Also so it only runs with the gas pedal pressed if that helps narrow it down.

thanks in advance I need this car running to break in the rings and tune ASAP.

Checked compression 150-153-160-150. I cleaned out IACV and new pcv. It acts like it wants to start but it doesn’t want to catch. Ground wires has been checked grounded good. Checked main relay and the soldering points are good. Fuel filter gauge reads 38psi and fuel shoots out the other end of fuel rail. Is there anything else I can check???

got a base map from phearable too.

Could gas be bad??? Been sitting for a couple months...