Hey fellas, recent bought back the integra I had in high school. It’s been a few years since I owned it and the previous owner bought the motor in it off of a reputable seller in the area so I’m not too familiar with it. I was looking to turbo it and I’m just wondering if it’s worth my time or if I should build one myself. Everything I know about the motor will be posted below.
HMO 97 JDM B16A Head

B18B1 LS Block

HMO JDM EK9 CTR trans LSD



Skunk2 Alpha flat valves

Skunk2 Pro XP Springs and Titanium retainers

Skunk2 Loss Motion Assembly

Skunk2 Tuner 3 Cams

Skunk2 Cam Gears

Skunk2 Low pro VC hardware

ARP Head studs

Skunk2 Pro Series Intake Manifold

Skunk2 70mm Throttle body

AEM Fuel Rail

AEM FPR

Marshall FP Gauge

RC Injectors 650CC

JB Tuned/E85 Freaks FR AN adapter

BLOX extended Intake Manifold Studs

Skunk2 Thermal Intake and throttle body gaskets.

Wiseco 81.5mm Pistons

LS Shot Peen rods

Skunk2 magnetic drain plug

Golden Eagle LS/VTEC kit

Golden Eagle Block Guard

GSR oil pump

GSR water pump

GSR timing belt kit

VMS lightweight crank pulley

ARP crank bolt

Fresh gaskets

Action Clutch/flywheel

NGK Japan plug wires

Carbon Plug cover

Chipped and tuned p28 ECU

 

All that and stock rod bolts? If you choose to stay NA, I'd recommend you pull the piston/rods, install ARP, and have them resized before you run it. If you decide to boost, upgrade rods.

At least pop the head off and figure out what pistons are in there. If they've got some huge dome volume you're pretty much stuck with NA unless you rebuild. If they're 11:1 compression or less, you can boost. See my above comment regarding rods. You'll likely want to adjust your ring gaps if converting to a turbo spec.

Those valve springs are also quite aggressive and if you're not planning on big boost and/or >10krpm, I'd personally down-spec them. You're just beating the **** out of your valve train and seats unnecessarily if you don't need them. I'd probably swap out the cams no matter what. There's just a lot of better, more rounded options out there.

Ditch the crank pulley. Replace with your choice of ATI or Fluidampr.

Get this-century tech injectors. Consider getting a new engine loom. Even a Rywire/etc. budget harness is a huge upgrade over your 30 years old rat's nest.

Upgrade the engine management Full stop on that one. Just bite the bullet. S300 is the minimum spec, but Link/ECU Master/Haltech/etc is an investment in your future.

 

Thanks for the help, I’ve lost all my knowledge after the last few years. I’ll just buy a new block and start fresh. I appreciate your help!

 

What do you think the point of the build was in the first place? Slap some **** together and sell it to someone?

 

Hah, no way of knowing without talking to the person. Can't imagine that would be a profitable strategy. Finding out the piston spec will likely tell you what the intent was.

 

The injector size, the cams, and the flat face valves tell me that is built to be an NA motor and likely has high comp pistons. Might be good to leave it alone and sell it as a running motor. Lots of time goes into getting that right

 

Agreed.

Tuner 3s want big comp and big rpm. The build overall looks like an early '00s forum wishlist, but has plot holes. If it's been built properly it will probably make decent power, but will be peaky. I wouldn't trust the rods unless the bolts have been properly upgraded.

 

sorry for the fall off.... life gets busy. if i rebuild I should just need a 81.5mm gasket? I wont give up again.