nicks00si

Alright so I've been searching all over the internet and this forum among others and can't seem to find exactly the answers I'm looking for. I've got a spare H22 head that I'm planning to rebuild in my free time mostly for the experience. I noticed the valve guides seem to have some scarring on the ends as if made by a screwdriver trying to remove seals. Some are worse than others and I'm leaning towards putting in fresh guides, but I would like to hear some opinions on the matter before I spend the money.

Is this something that will lead to problems?

If the scarring isn't reason enough to replace them, is there a way to ream the guides sort of speak around the areas where the scarring has slightly deformed the guide?

As I'm typing this, I'm definitely leaning more towards putting it in the oven and removing them tomorrow.



Thanks to anyone who give input. It's good to be back in the Honda game.

Ryanthegreat1

They are probably worn out anyway. I say replace them.

nicks00si

I wouldn't be suprised if they were, and I've got an oven in my garage anyway, so it shouldn't be too difficult if it will fit in there.

Looks like a set of Supertech valve guides and seals are roughly $100 so it's not overly expensive if I can manage to get them installed myself.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this?

OneBadTurboCRV

Measure things or just replace them. Sounds like they are pretty messed up. This thread should cover everything you want to know. I lay it out, but it's no write-up.

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...015-a-3256185/

Ryanthegreat1

I did supertech guides in a D16 head. Not too bad. The parts are not too expensive, it is the tools that kill the budget. Bronze guides must be cut with carbide and the 5.5mm carbide reamer is $200. Works a treat just like a tool of that caliber should.

Probably have to do a valve job on it too now that you have changed the guides and their alignment with the world. So now you are into seat cutting.

Probably best to take it to a shop and pay them the $100 to do all the work.

B and B

iTrader: (3)

I used SBI guides, cast like oem. Rifled. Long life. Trusted the mfg. specs for id.
Valves had plenty of clearance without reaming. Didn't notice any crush from install.
Picking up some for my PR-3 tomorrow.

nicks00si

Thanks, definitely some good information in there. So excuse me if I've misunderstood, but why would you knurl new guides? I've always thought knurling was a sort of band-aid fix for worn guides.

After a look at the valve seats on the exhaust side I would suspect they need a grinding to get rid of the pitting, so that's an expense I'll have to endure regardless. It sounds to me like it may be cheaper to have the work done than to attempt the guides myself with the specialty tools involved.


This will basically be a stock NA build with higher compression, roughly around 12:1. It won't be an engine that sees a great deal of abuse or even a lot of miles. It will likely end up with upgraded valves as I doubt the old valves are of much count if I can even find them. I'm not afraid to spend a little money on tools, but I can hardly justify spending twice as much on the tools as it would cost me to get it done right at a machine shop. That's money that could go towards parts.

OneBadTurboCRV

Better oil seal and tighter valve stem to guide clearances. As another mentioned, you can buy new pre-knurled guides. Most would consider it a quick fix that doesn't last long on something that is old and worn out. You essentially are focring a raised edge inside the guide.

I was told by a "top engine builder" that it would reduce friction and valve wobble (due to tighter clearances). So I decided to try it out. Well, they didn't last very long as mentioned in that thread before I started having issues.

I am probably not your average Joe, I check my leak down and compression numbers almost every oil change or at least every other one... but only on my heavily modified stuff haha. I try to catch problems before they become catastrophic.

PrecisionPerformanceParts

You can also go with a bronze guide liner, but the tooling cost will be too high to justify doing only one head.

nicks00si

I don't think knurling is the answer for me. Bronze guides that wear faster combined with knurling just sounds like a bad idea for a daily driver sort of build. I basically need it to function as well as the OEM guides did for this build. If I can get better than OEM performance from them for the same money, then I'm fine with that. Bottom line, it's no race engine and won't see much abuse.


Thanks everyone for your input.