head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling
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head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling
I'm porting my d16z6 and going to be having bronze valve guides put in..
any downfall to putting in some putty/filler around the valve guide to make one solid floor around the valve itself..
i know it would make replacing valve guides tricky, but would increase airflow alot...
opinions ?
any downfall to putting in some putty/filler around the valve guide to make one solid floor around the valve itself..
i know it would make replacing valve guides tricky, but would increase airflow alot...
opinions ?
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (TheNosR)
well there's the gap around the valve guide, i can image that helping airflow, if the ceiling around the valveguide was completly solid and clean i'd gander it would match the floor and keep control airflow
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (GarageAlchemist)
there is an epoxy available on the market that can withstand the temps of direct exhaust heat and is used in older 351cleveland fords. I have not seen any of the other pro heads with this kind of work done.
I think you will see minimal gains. just don't cut down the guides, you can shape them and contour them but don't remove them. Your guides will wear faster and it doesn't support the valve.
This will probably help you a ton.
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d16a%5Fhead/
I think you will see minimal gains. just don't cut down the guides, you can shape them and contour them but don't remove them. Your guides will wear faster and it doesn't support the valve.
This will probably help you a ton.
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d16a%5Fhead/
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (drift4jesus)
yea i have most of that site bookmarked.. lol
anther question if a good head porter chimes in, how should i work the exhaust splitter, or the inside wall.. tapper it to a smooth angle to the floor, or extended it..
anther question if a good head porter chimes in, how should i work the exhaust splitter, or the inside wall.. tapper it to a smooth angle to the floor, or extended it..
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (GarageAlchemist)
i have done a good ammount of port work, and i always like to use drimmel adbrasive *****... they make low and high grit... the lower grit for more adbrasive marks to smooth them out, and higher grit to completely smooth out the ports, and believe me done right this will make your ports smooth as glass...
ive done alot of manifolds and heads, and making the ports larger isnt as much important as getting the ports extremely smooth. that would be very very key... using polishing components and adbrasive ***** will really help your work
ive done alot of manifolds and heads, and making the ports larger isnt as much important as getting the ports extremely smooth. that would be very very key... using polishing components and adbrasive ***** will really help your work
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (b18sihatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have done a good ammount of port work, and i always like to use drimmel adbrasive *****... they make low and high grit... the lower grit for more adbrasive marks to smooth them out, and higher grit to completely smooth out the ports, and believe me done right this will make your ports smooth as glass...
ive done alot of manifolds and heads, and making the ports larger isnt as much important as getting the ports extremely smooth. that would be very very key... using polishing components and adbrasive ***** will really help your work </TD></TR></TABLE>You are aware of what surface tension is right?By just polishing a port all your doing is slightly reducing the surface tension not the flow.That may work fine for someone who wants very little improvment but its not a ported head by any means sorry.To properly porta honda vtec head material has to come out of the ports in some places and sanding it isnt going to get it done.
ive done alot of manifolds and heads, and making the ports larger isnt as much important as getting the ports extremely smooth. that would be very very key... using polishing components and adbrasive ***** will really help your work
</TD></TR></TABLE>You are aware of what surface tension is right?By just polishing a port all your doing is slightly reducing the surface tension not the flow.That may work fine for someone who wants very little improvment but its not a ported head by any means sorry.To properly porta honda vtec head material has to come out of the ports in some places and sanding it isnt going to get it done.
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (Fkned)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fkned »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are aware of what surface tension is right?By just polishing a port all your doing is slightly reducing the surface tension not the flow.That may work fine for someone who wants very little improvment but its not a ported head by any means sorry.To properly porta honda vtec head material has to come out of the ports in some places and sanding it isnt going to get it done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's right. It's going to take a machine shop to port the head. Without porting a mild polish job would help, but very little. And if you did it with a Dremel tool it would take you a long time and a lot of bits.
It would probably only cost you a couple hundred dollars to get a nice port n polish. Make sure the place that does it though bench flow tests the head and does not over port it.
He's right. It's going to take a machine shop to port the head. Without porting a mild polish job would help, but very little. And if you did it with a Dremel tool it would take you a long time and a lot of bits.
It would probably only cost you a couple hundred dollars to get a nice port n polish. Make sure the place that does it though bench flow tests the head and does not over port it.
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (SuzukaBlueAP2)
thats was totally not what i was talking about, i was saying AFTER you totally open up the ports to the desired opening THEN smooth everything out... i wasnt talking about just simply smoothing the ports out that would do very little, but opening them up and then smoothnig will help air flow
i have seen many people who have their heads ''ported'' and the ports are very rough.. i was simply saying done forget about the polishing part
i have seen many people who have their heads ''ported'' and the ports are very rough.. i was simply saying done forget about the polishing part
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (b18sihatch)
the texture has so little to do with it it's funny to me.Sure super shinny looks fab and makes you feel as thought you got what you paid for.But I do this for a living and the work I do is rough and it seeems to work very fine for me.For an example lets talk about the head I did for AR Fab last season.The intake side was sanded with 40 grit and he made 900+whp.So I dont see the need to spend 2 days polishing something I can do in 6 hrs for litle to no gains imo.
Modified by Fkned at 11:08 AM 6/28/2006
Modified by Fkned at 11:08 AM 6/28/2006
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (Fkned)
polishing on the intake side (after the injector) will acutally lose horsepower due to the fuel dropping out of suspension and sticking to the port walls. I finish my intake ports w/ a 80grit roll for street motors.
And with the exhaust side anything past a 180 grit is wasting time. It may pick up 3 more cfm at full open but what about after the motor has run for 5 minutes and there is a thin film of carbon covering everything.... plus the carbon always lays down smooth.
Shiny polished ports are 95% cosmetic for the customers because that is what they have come to expect.
And with the exhaust side anything past a 180 grit is wasting time. It may pick up 3 more cfm at full open but what about after the motor has run for 5 minutes and there is a thin film of carbon covering everything.... plus the carbon always lays down smooth.
Shiny polished ports are 95% cosmetic for the customers because that is what they have come to expect.
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Re: head porting question, blending valve guide and port ceiling (drift4jesus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have done a good ammount of port work, and i always like to use drimmel adbrasive *****... they make low and high grit... the lower grit for more adbrasive marks to smooth them out, and higher grit to completely smooth out the ports, and believe me done right this will make your ports smooth as glass...
ive done alot of manifolds and heads, and making the ports larger isnt as much important as getting the ports extremely smooth. that would be very very key... using polishing components and adbrasive ***** will really help your work </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats was totally not what i was talking about, i was saying AFTER you totally open up the ports to the desired opening THEN smooth everything out... i wasnt talking about just simply smoothing the ports out that would do very little, but opening them up and then smoothnig will help air flow
i have seen many people who have their heads ''ported'' and the ports are very rough.. i was simply saying done forget about the polishing part</TD></TR></TABLE>It sure sounds like thats what you said when I read it sir.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drift4jesus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">polishing on the intake side (after the injector) will acutally lose horsepower due to the fuel dropping out of suspension and sticking to the port walls. I finish my intake ports w/ a 80grit roll for street motors.
And with the exhaust side anything past a 180 grit is wasting time. It may pick up 3 more cfm at full open but what about after the motor has run for 5 minutes and there is a thin film of carbon covering everything.... plus the carbon always lays down smooth.
Shiny polished ports are 95% cosmetic for the customers because that is what they have come to expect.</TD></TR></TABLE>Exactlly what I'm trying to get across thank you for saying it better then me sir.
ive done alot of manifolds and heads, and making the ports larger isnt as much important as getting the ports extremely smooth. that would be very very key... using polishing components and adbrasive ***** will really help your work
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats was totally not what i was talking about, i was saying AFTER you totally open up the ports to the desired opening THEN smooth everything out... i wasnt talking about just simply smoothing the ports out that would do very little, but opening them up and then smoothnig will help air flow
i have seen many people who have their heads ''ported'' and the ports are very rough.. i was simply saying done forget about the polishing part</TD></TR></TABLE>It sure sounds like thats what you said when I read it sir.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drift4jesus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">polishing on the intake side (after the injector) will acutally lose horsepower due to the fuel dropping out of suspension and sticking to the port walls. I finish my intake ports w/ a 80grit roll for street motors.
And with the exhaust side anything past a 180 grit is wasting time. It may pick up 3 more cfm at full open but what about after the motor has run for 5 minutes and there is a thin film of carbon covering everything.... plus the carbon always lays down smooth.
Shiny polished ports are 95% cosmetic for the customers because that is what they have come to expect.</TD></TR></TABLE>Exactlly what I'm trying to get across thank you for saying it better then me sir.
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