Hi all,

I've been trying to read into this particular issue but I can't seem to find a definite answer, but for some context: my cousin and I finished putting together my B18C1 GSR motor back in October of 2020, and have put around 2k miles on it since then. It's been a while since then, and I recently read that ARP head studs have to be retorqued after the first heat cycle. I've also read that they have to be retorqued after 10, or that they don't even have to be retorqued at all. What should I do?

As of now, I haven't noticed anything inherently or obviously wrong with the engine. I've checked for oil leaks, and there is some oil pooling up on the rear drivers side corner, but that is most likely just from bad cam gear seals. I also noticed a *very* tiny spec of oil on top above the engine code stamp, but I'm not sure where it's from. I'd also like to add in that we followed the instructions given by ARP in the box, but we torqued in equal steps all the way up to 80 ft lbs only waiting like 2 or less minutes between each step. My paranoia is telling me I should retorque them, but at the same time this is my only car right now and I'd rather not tear apart everything if it's not necessary because I need to drive it.. Thanks!

 

I'd like to also add that so far I haven't noticed any issues regarding overheating or head lift that correlates to loosened head studs. There was overheating but it was because the coolant temp sensor failed and so I replaced it and just half assed the bleeding/flushing of the coolant at first. But I will say that ever since then, the temp gauge has been reading higher than what it should i.e what is "operating temp" is now just above half way. I used a temp gun to check the engine's temperature and it wouldn't even be hot. It would still be only warm to the touch but the temp gauge would read at operating temperature, and it also starts to go up like a minute after I start it even after sitting overnight. Thermostat opens, fans turn on, coolant reservoir doesn't overflow, etc. So, I ruled it out as a fault with the new sensor or faulty wiring...unless anyone here is more knowledgeable on this...

 

The C30 uses the same size 11mm head studs as the B blocks and I've never retorqued them after startup. I have 5000 miles on my engine right now with no leaks, ARP studs, and Cometic MLS gaskets.

I torque them in steps of 20lbft up to 80, wait 24 hours and retorque, then wait another 24 hours and torque one last time before continuing assembly. Probably not required, but I've got time so why not?

I seriously doubt a head gasket leak is your problem though unless the deck and head were not properly cleaned and prepared. And if a head gasket leak is your problem, it's too late to fix it just by retorquing. I'd start with a cooling system pressure test, you can get a free rental of the tool from most parts stores.

 

Thanks for your response! Funny enough, my car developed even more problems today. Overflow tank filled up all the way to the top and smoke came out from all over the engine bay when I popped the hood, but there were no signs of any leaking fluids. The entire the time the temp gauge was reading normal, which was weird because I was used to seeing it higher than normal.

 

On my B-series I never re-torqued. On my D-series I do, because you don't have to pull the cam out. Probably not the best reasoning, but it's the truth.

Filling your overflow tank could be a bad radiator cap, or you may have a bad head gasket. Try changing the cap first, and/or do a compression and leak-down test. The tests may not give you the full answer though - my compression remained good and my leak-down was less than 10% different between cylinders, yet I continued to push coolant and never overheat. A block test yielded negative results for combustion gasses in the coolant. Only when I pulled the head could I see that the gasket was blown.

 

If you replaced your temp sensor sender (the single wire one that goes to the dash) with anything other than OEM, it will probably read higher than normal. I've replaced mine with an MTE Thomson equivalent and it does read a lot higher than the OEM one. I've read reports of other aftermarket brands with the same issue. I have a chipped ECU so I've confirmed that by datalogging the ECT sensor (which is still the OEM one) and also did the same temp gun test as you.

 

Yeah, I just got an Import Direct one from Autozone. It does bother me a little that the gauge reads higher so I may have to opt for a genuine Honda one in the future. Thanks!