95gsr@530

Other than the popular compression and leak down tests, is there any way I can check or verify the health of the bottom end of my 95 gsr b18c1? I want to know, after having just had the head deck'd .015", and rebuilding the top end myself, if my bottom end is in decent shape to go along with my fresh head. And, if my bottom end is bad I have a b18b1 which has already been bored to 81.5mm with forgred 81.5mm weisco's and forged eagle rods with a brand new ls crank disassembled. Got the arp's, head and block deck'd, 10:1ish compression, pressure tested, the works. But it needs sooo many things before I consider it nearly ready to take over the job of the c1 I'm wrenching on now. I'm currently dealing with the final touches on my top end rebuild/deck/head gasket project. I'm anxious to warm it up and get an accurate compression test result, but when done cold, compression is 180psi across the board. Felpro gasket kit, talk all the S*** you want, it included everything and then some and a lot of people say they've never had a problem.

But I just want to know, how do I check/verify that my c1's bottom end, (in the driveway) is in good or okay condition. I do not have access to shop air. when the head was off I cleaned the piston tops best I could, they look like new. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated, and hopefully tomorrow if I don't have any leaks like I did today, (thermostat housing) then I will be able to finish the job and run it up to op temp, and hopefully check out the condition of the bottom end and clean it, with a little help from ya'll hopefully

PyroProblem

You could check the rod bearings and mains 2,3, and 4 if you want to go through the work of pulling the oil pan off.

You could measure the cylinders for out of round/taper in the areas that you can access.
After the heads back on, a leakdown test would prob be the next best things to check leakage past the piston rings. Not really a whole lot to check really without going deeper into the block, which doesn't sound/seem like something you really want to do.

But if it was running fine before (good power/minimal oil consumption, no abnormal sounds) I'd just run it as it is.

PyroProblem

With the piston at TDC, I would either vacuum out or blow out the small piston to wall clearance at the top of the piston. There's a good chance there's some carbon that snuck in there when you cleaned the pistons. You don't want anything abrasive like that having a chance to screw up a machined surface.

95gsr@530

that is a brilliant idea and although I was very meticulous about my cleaning I could understand how this could pose a problem. Hot compression test yielded 180 psi across the board but vacuum is at 25+" and #3 is sucking in some oil from the valve stem seal I just installed improperly i'm assuming. I'm guessing the high vacuum is due to blocking off what used to be a vent cap on the IAB because it was cracked to pieces. I'm just glad the car is running, minor oil consumption or not, and tomorrow are the shop i'm definitely going leakage test. I may break out the boroscope. my school has some pretty bitch'n tools. Thank you for the advice! much appreciaed

PyroProblem

That's good vacuum. No fluctuations I presume?
Good compression numbers too.
I've recently had some really good results using a product by Liqui-Moly. Its an oil treatment designed to reduce oil consumption. I'm not a believer in snake oils but this stuff has been working on 2 vehicles now that used a quart of oil about every 350 miles. Zero oil added since last oil change on BOTH vehicles. Stuff actually works.
Make sure the valve stem seal is seated completely. If not the retainer can smash it and cause it to leak.
Your welcome and good luck!

95gsr@530

I pulled the plugs on it yesterday and to my surprise I didn't see any oil contamination on #3 like I had previously. Leakage test went really well, no bubbles! The tester I was using was broken/weird, but at 100psi induced I only lost 5 psi give or take. When filling the cooling system I couldn't get any liquid to come out of the bleeder port, even after I removed it completely. So I poke around in there with my pick and splash, 14 psi (I'm guessing) hot coolant comes shooting at me. Soooo a good cooling system cleaner would be greatly appreciated if you have any you recommend. I too am not a believer in oil additives but i'll look into that liqui molly