I made several aluminum wheels for a cam trigger design but was not happy with any of them. Each one became more and more simple, ending with this. I just needed a trigger for #1 TDC. All I have to do for the Autronic was get it close and then let the stand alone zero it out. Everything on the STR cam gear is aluminum so just needed a piece of steel to trigger it. I am now building a bracket attached to the cylinder head to hold the sensor. Let me know if you see a problem

 

How much mass does the steel piece add? Any concerns about balance at high rpm?

Usually the biggest issue I see on trigger pickups for stand alone is vibration causing inconsistent readings due to insufficient bracket stiffness. I don't build em or install em, but I've seen a few that probably should have never gotten off the drawing board.

C_A_T

 

You bring up a good point. At 10,000rpm that thing has to be unbalanced.

art

 

You could probably also drill and press in a small/short steel pin into the outside of the cam gear at the 0 mark, and then compensate for the balance by tapping an identical one into the back-side of the gear, 180 deg out... then set up the sensor to look right at the side of the gear.... hmmm..

 

The cam gear shouldn't ever turn at 10,000 RPM.
I think that one post every 120 degrees would be better than two at 180.
isn't a crank trigger more accurate than a cam trigger?

 

A crank trigger is more accurate than a cam due to the belt, but in order to time sequential injection and direct fire spark, you need a signal once every engine combustion cycle, which must be on the cam.

 

Max rpm on this would be 5300rpm as it turns at half the crank speed. The spacer is made of aluminum so the only out of balance weight would be an extra 1/2" of bolt length. I'm thinking it would not be that bad. I'm sure the cam gears are not spun balanced anyway. BTW, we also use a crank sensor.

 

It came out pretty good, Earl.

 

Earl ,
Can I use this with MOTEC M800 and How about the Crank Trigger ?
My Set up are 4 Individual Coils runs sequential not wasted spark .
Please give more detai linformations and how to get this things

God Bless U

 

to run sequential fuel injection/ignition you need both a cylinder pulse (crank speed) and a cylinder ref (cam speed) sensor - in order to let the Motec ECU know when the engine is on the #1 cylinder.

you can do it all on the a cam pulley. most sytems use a 2 or 4 teeth/magnets for the "crank speed" and one tooth/magnet for the "cam speed"

 

Do you have DETAIL / More Specific Instructions how to do the Cam and Crank Trigger to use in my applcations to use with Motec M800 ?

Thank you

God Bless U

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lugnuts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to run sequential fuel injection/ignition you need both a cylinder pulse (crank speed) and a cylinder ref (cam speed) sensor - in order to let the Motec ECU know when the engine is on the #1 cylinder.

you can do it all on the a cam pulley. most sytems use a 2 or 4 teeth/magnets for the "crank speed" and one tooth/magnet for the "cam speed"

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, we use one on the cam and 2 on the crank. And even at 5300 rpm that motor is flying. If you have even had the chance to see a crank being balanced, the motor is flying.

 

i'm gusing ur using a magnetic cam trigger then, don't they miss-read sometime or something? agh... maybe i don't know what i'm talking about, i'll jus sit here and be quiet

 

Sometimes magnets get interferance from other places...