Yeah i've had great luck with my M&W Pro 10! I used to change the plugs almost every time i went to the track, now with this Kit I forget when i changed the plugs last... lol

 

Ouch...the one I am having designed will be sold for $25-$30 out the door.

 

Nice^

 

Even with the digital 6 setup in my car, i've changed the plugs 2 times this year. after the dyno, and at the BOTI event when it started overheating the ignitor just incase the plugs were bad, but they were fine

 

Beats buying a oem one.

 

Would this help with goin through coils? Ive tried a brand new Blaster SS coil with an oem honda cap and had ignition issues. Never had to change the ignitor but i go through 2-3 coils a year. Just started picking up a slight miss, gets worse until i change the coil and all is well again.

 

used s300 + t1 kit combo (pro 10 and crane coil). barely 900whp with no ign issues using ngk copper tip .0016" on gasoline.

 

that is an expensive way to fix a cheap problem. most people on here are not going to spend that kind of money...especially when for about $30 bucks i can give them something bullet proof that will fix the ignitor issue permanetly.

 

thats the idea...i dont plan on making a bunch of money off these...this is just a hobby...i have a day job

 

Its also a quality way to fix the issue. some people are also trying to enhance spark energy. Initially I made this to find a cheap fix, but realized, over the last 3 years i've wanted to try the M&W system, now I have a reason to do so.

 

this isnt a cheap fix like that garbage j&s circut floating around is (that circut dumps current back into the ecu...a big no no)....i took an ecu and distributor to an electrical engineer to come up with a proper fix.

 

When you have a bulletproof $30 system on the market that's proven itself then you can talk about how much better it is than other stuff on the market. Until then...

 

dont worry about that...i got just the car put it on after the replacement part has been ran on the simulator for testing....the final schematic will be in my hands tommorow
the person designing it is the head electrical engineer of fisher research labs and has been for the last 30+ years....just so happens to be my uncle

 

I designed a time travel machine from poop. I know it'll work because i'm a plumber. Please quit advertising in my thread

 

^ haha

just create a thread with the 30$ equipment and let everyone see your test results. its just that i'd think twice to trust a 30$ replacement for ign setup to handle a $20t motor

garage, how much power ru putting on?

 

LOL

 

grow up poop boy =P lol

 

Currently I'm only at 850 limited by my fuel pump.

 

we probably have the same issue as i had before. approaching mid 800s, s372, 30-33psi, random misfires, changed plugs, etc, changed distributors all the time, but nothing seemed to work permanently.

got the t1 kit. just splice 1 wire in the harness, and all are bolt on. redynoed, made high 800s with no misfires on about 20 passes on the dyno.


our fuel setup was dual walbro, id2000s, aeromotive reg, base pres = 80psi.

 

This is making me drool over the thought of a Pro10 and coil from T1. I better put that on the list for winter plans and start saving quarters, not effin with plugs all the time or having misfires after getting some run time on them would be nice.

 

Funny thing is I never noticed it on the dyno feel wise, but the graph was a bit choppy up top. At the track, it was very bad. Anyways, just ordered my pro10 kit from Tony and my Weldon 2035. Next season's gonna be fun

 

Will yours output a tacho signal to the factory tach without the use of an extra ignition box?

This is the ONLY reason I havent massed produced one either...I can see race cars using this, but not street cars...so the volume wasnt there for me to pursue it further.

Is yours the one originally Designed on PGMFI.org? What do you do about the lack of output to drive the factory Tacho?



I made one as well, with help from Randy Schoener (RS-Tech) and Moates...I have it in a few cars with success but didnt think a majority of people out there would need something like this.

My justification was if you have none of the parts, you are going to buy an M&W PRO 10 with the Crane Coil...its just the bulletproof way to go.

If you go the way of the stock Dizzy, you need a Digital MSD Box and you still need the Coil (Crane or HVC Blue) so if you have to spend all that money, and the Ignitor relocator for $30-50 you should have just gone with the M&W from the start...

BUT if you have all of that, and you have ignitor issues already like Garage 808 here...then this ignitor box is perfect for that.

Rob Mapps has been running this for 2 years plus now...he used to blow ignitors all the time but when we switched to this last year and interesting thing happened as well, we didnt have to gap the plugs down as much as we used to need to, so somehow relocating the ICM allowed for a more powerful spark as well...which was a good thing

 

Whenever I see "2035" - I just have to be sure you're aware: those pumps are 5 min on - 30 min off. Intermittent duty only. As long as you're cool with that

 

Ya, Tony made sure to tell me. Its all good, its going on a full race car.

 

also be aware they are annoying lol.