Which is the best? Arp or eagle. Im having issiues when boost is above 30 psi with lifting the head. I've got arps but the issiue keeps coming back. I was wondering if the golden eagle set was better or would help solve my issiue.

 

Maybe you are overlooking something?

Used both in the past but sticked with GE till now. No problems with arp though.

 

i've used both, never had a problem with either or.

 

The GE's are better studs period. They are designed properly to bottom out in the block vs the ARP's that are known and tested to only use barely over half the threads in the block. This also is proven to limit distortion of the top of the cylinder as to not cause piston and cylinder wall wear. Again tested and proven that the arp's distort the cylinders and are not good on high boost applications. The only way you'll get the arp's to hold is to o-ring or used a stepped deck block. Other than that your SOL

I used the GE B16a studs in my SR20 and zero issues with head lift, 36psi from a t67, over 600+ whp and zero head lift. Even when I had bad detonation when the fuel pressure dumped on me, it melted the cp piston before it lifted the head. Strong and properly designed studs.

GE's all the way. Throw those ARP's in the trash.

 

Thanks for the input. Ill be ordering a set of eagles.

 

On a side note.... at least for us SR guys...Mazworx makes an ARP2000 material stud that properly bottoms out in the block properly vs the old improper design. I dont know if they actually had those custom made through ARP. I do know the tensile strength of the ARP studs is slightly higher than the GE's but again having a proper stud is key and that is obvious.

I know for us SR guys, many people in the past that used the ARP's had problems with pulling threads out of the block when the head would lift and then they went to do the gasket change and tried to remove the studs and it took the threads out of the block with the stud. Not good.

The b16 and b18 GE studs actually work in our motors, the bottom part is the correct size and thread to bottom out correctly, the top length is a bit long but still works just fine with no modification. It was a nice cheaper solution at the time than to get Cosworth, Greddy, Tomei studs. Now most use the Mazworx ARP's or GE's.

 

And what about the hundred's of other people that use the ARP's with zero issue's?

 

Dont agree that arp's are trash.

 

Maybe its the fact that your using them in a SR20 block but ARP flat out says when installing the studs to bottom them out properly without torque applied. I have never had a problem with bottoming out the studs in any block I assemble. It helps if you run a bottom tap first just to clean out the threads though but they go right in.

Point is no stud is worth a damn if its installed incorrectly and if your not bottoming the studs before applying torque you are doing it wrong period.

 

You dont have to agree. They are. You dont see any of the big built guys using shitty old school ARP's. They are using proper studs that bottom out in the block and/or larger studs that also bottom out in the block.

The proof is in the numbers. If i could find the post where testing was done I will post it. The arp's distorted the tops of the cylinders over 4X that of proper head studs. Again they are good to a certain power level. After that they will have problems. Most of my experience is with SR's but ive had buddies who after a point had problems with head lifting with ARP's and they switched to a proper stud, most of them GE's, and had no issues ever again.

ARP's work fine on Iron blocks which is what they were originally designed for, old school V8's and so on. They work great on 4g63 motors as well. Again, Iron blocks. But to only utilize 1/2 the threads in an aluminum block is just asking for problems again when pushed higher than a certain point. Most people under 400whp dont have issues. Above that or a certain boost level you will see problems.

 

I made 827 whp in 2005 using ARP's I didn't have a problem with them then and at that time that was a lot of power to make.

Im not denying that the GE studs are good studs they are but in my experience I have never had an issue with an ARP stud in a Honda block.

 

Again maybe they changed your guys' ARP studs but the old ones are a shank style bottom that has a bulge that bottoms against the top of the block whereas a proper stud has a bullet point at the bottom of the stud that actually bottoms itself in the block.

Again this is based on the shank style ARP's. Im pretty sure regular b-series ARP's are also the shank style.

Here is the comparison pics of the old ARP's and Mazworx's ARP's. Both the ARP head and main both are shank style and dont bottom causing serious distortion to the cylinder wall and main journals compared to a proper bottoming stud








Main Stud Comparison

ARP off the shelf, Mazworx Main

 

Again if the ARP studs are of the newer type that your talking about then disregard what I said. I know the old styles are still out there. Dont know if they make a proper stud like Mazworx did for us for you guys, then if so then yeah of course id go with the stronger material stud.

The mazworx arp2000 studs are by far the best option we have for our motors again I dont know about yours or if they already changed their design.

 

Well it seems that in your examples there is an issue (which I believed from the start if you recall) but I have not experienced these same issues with Honda blocks. Being as this is honda-tech id say its unfair to say that ARP is no good.

 

Again that was assuming the studs that were being discussed were the original style studs, if there are different studs then again, disregard. I do know that the old style B-series honda studs were made the same way as the ones for the SR. So thats why I said what I said. The style stud shown in the picture sucks, and thats a fact. If they redesigned then yeah, should be no problems with them.