what headstuds are everyone using for around 600-700 hp i feel like my head is lifting off the block or i just blew a headgasket?

 

ARP's. 40+psi, 850hp no issues

 

GE studs 810+ WHP No Problems here!

But Block is O-ringed so that may help also......

 

arps@ 765 whp@34lbs

 

arp here at 26psi. Do i need to go for 1/2 inch stud for more HP/boost.

 

what are you torquing them too... alot of people around here over tighten them and stretch the **** out of them especially d series ones

 

I like GE and AEBS studs.. They both have the extended portion that bottoms out in the block..

 

Arp L19 studs 30 psi 850whp no o-ring.80 lbs with arp molly,retorque after 10 heat cycles.

 

does everyone retorque after the 10 heat cycles?

 

Golden Eagle FTW!

 

No my motors usually break on the 9th heat cycle.

Just kidding , we should but most of us never get around to it.

Get into a post race tear down habit and most catastrophic failures can be avoided.

 

80 ft/lbs, retorque after dyno session.

 

Arp in here with 831hp at 31psi tork at 100 ft/lbs I'm going with L19 for next year

 

Arp's and you have to re torque them atleast once

 

does the block need to be machined to use 1/2 inch headstuds?

 

Yes. But honestly 99% of applications are covered by shelf stock ARP, or GE.

 

Golden Eagle here...

 

What are you torquing them to (on a b series)? Do you retorque?

 

73lbs of torque on my GE studs with the nasty red assembly lube. havn't had head gasket issues since 2006.

 

ok so when heat cycling motor should i drive it to heat it up, if so how long per cycle, and should i hit boost?

 

we always just heat cycle the engine once on a fresh motor, then shut it off, let it cool down, and retorque to 80 ft lbs. using ge studs. i believe ge states to loosen them about 1/4 turn before retorquing but we never do that.

 

i never loosen studs before re-torquing....hell i really don't like their "method" for the first torque of torquing and then backing them off....

Every time I've ever gone to re-torque...they never need it with the GE studs. ARP is a different story.

 

Im using the GE b16a headstuds on my SR20 motor (yes, thats right) being they are the same size at the bottom, they properly bottom out in the block as the studs should. We used to have AEBS head studs but they discontinued them. Then Mazworx finally made a set of proper studs that bottom out in the block.

It was proven on several tests that the ARP's that dont bottom in the block would distort the cylinders significantly. Also they had issues with pulling threads out of the block or becoming stuck in the threads. This was well under 500whp. The head would lift and blow the headgasket.

Mazworx made a set for us SR20 guys that use the ARP 2000 material. I have been using the GE's for over a year at 30+psi on a 60 trim turbo, 550whp and im still using them on my 67mm turbo at 35psi. The GE studs are cheap and strong as hell. I think a couple big name guys on here are using them to over 1000whp. So thats plenty for my 700whp, lol. $110 shipped on ebay when i got them a year ago. And they dont require retorquing. I took them out when i took the head off and they were still tight as hell. I was very impressed. I was using a Cosworth headgasket as well.

 

aebs

 

Has anyone used A1 Technologies studs