well we finally got the boost issue figured out but then the ignition started breaking up on anything past 30psi. so i took my brand new oem honda dis off my other race car, put it on and sync it with the aem and now the car wont make any power. the turbo is spooling quicker like theres no timming but the aem shows in the log the same timming as it was the run before. it will hit like 5000k rpm and just flat line at like 100hp. put the old dis back on sync it just like we did when we put the aem on the car and now with the old dis the car wont do anything. does anybody have any idea what the hell could be going on?

 

Seems like timing is off or you possibly have a wiring issue or something isn't plugged in all the way since swapping out distributors.

Have you shot timing, if so what is it?

 

what do you mean shot timing?

 

Have you used a timing gun to actually check timing at the motor?

 

yeah. we used the timming gun to sync the aem. timing light said 20 and aem said 20. and if you look at the log it shows to have the right timing thru the run. the car revs fine drives thru gears fine but when you hit wide open trottle around 4500 to 5000rpms the boost hits around 10psi and the power just flat lines at like 100hp and tq just goes strait down.

 

Why 20 degrees? Stock timing on most Honda engines is 16 degrees. This is a B series motor, correct?

 

it has pro2's and the tuner has it idling around 1200 and thats were i guess he likes it? im just the builder and the racer! i no alot about cars but not **** when it comes to tuning.

 

Hmmmm seems odd, def shouldn't NEED to be idling at 1200, that's very high and likely why the timing is higher too.
I've seen pro 2's run fine between 800- 1000 Rpm.
My Pro 1's idle at 900 rpm fine.

Could be blowing out spark, what are the plugs gapped to?

This is a tough issue to diagnose with the info given. So I can only throw out all the random causes of the issue you noted.

 

to get it to idle smooth enough to get a good reading with the gun he idled it up. we just made 3 pulls setting up the boost tables and didnt break up till the 3rd run at 32psi. i run the R5671A-8 ngk non resistor 8's. gapped at 28. car ran perfect till we changed the dis. so we changed it back and the same thing. its not just low on power, it strait up wont make any. it feels like timming is at like 0 but the aem says its like upper 20's into the 30's i belive trying to do a pull. i ckecked all the pins at the dis. all plugs and found nothing loose or not pluged in all the way.

 

So you're running 30psi+ at .028" gap?

 

yes. they are the recessed ngk race plugs

 

still what i read is most run .020-.018 on all out racers man

it does seem like alot of gap to me as well

 

i will def try that if i can ever get it to make over a 100hp! i can see that being the problem when the car was running right and hitting 30psi but right now im just trying to find out what could be going on with the aem? or is there somthing im not doing right with syncing the aem to the dis?

 

im on aem as well, and we were having issues with it kinda like this at first while running it with the msd digi 6, and the billet dizzy

well that **** is expensive to replace so we went to a t1 trigger, and an m&w pro14 with cop and no more issues.

then it developed another issue kinda like this that turned out to be on the intake manifolds that i cant friggin remember right now lol

 

i have a t1 trigger and m&m pro10 but i didnt want to put it on and not be the problem. im just very pissed right now because we made 670 on crome because we were in a hurry to make a race and the aem was messing up. now i have time to get the aem right and now this. has anybody ever had a problem were the aem said it was comanding a certain timming but it wasnt?

 

May want to contact AEM, they have EXCELLENT customer support!

 

correct when we were thinking my aem was jacked up they read it on here then they sent me a pm saying they wanted to help to see if it was the aem or not

thats top notch

 

Did you turn off the correction factors when setting the timing?

Does this car have an OEM unmolested engine harness?

 

That's true, I assume it's like Hondata where you have to basically tell it you are going to set timing, right?

I asked about wiring as well.

 

the harness is stock except for wiring in the map sensor. and im trying to get up with my tuner now to ask about turning off the correction factors

 

ahhhh didnt think about that its auto correcting the timing lol perhaps hopefully this would help man simple is always nice

 

You should go to a 9 plug and try .018-.020 gap.

 

but why did it work fine the first time we set the dis up?

 

Maybe it was setup correctly with the first dizzy then the tuner forgot or didn't know about the swap and forgot to set the correction factors....

Why can't you just check the AEM cal yourself?

 

the car is at the dyno and im at work. and i just herd that the guys are not at the shop so i dont know when im going to be able to check it. i swear im about to buy a f'n dyno and put it in my back yard and just pay a tuner to come tune it on my own dyno