i know that feeling man im in ky and getting ready to head to kc to my tuner lol

 

my car is on stock ignition. i run the ngk race 10 plugs at .014..

 

You should let me help you, I'll give you free track support. Same day dyno tunes 7 days a week in KY.

 

hey i need some quick help please. im at the dyno now and i went to a 9 plug gapped at .020. car wont run. i put the stock bkre7 resistor type plug in and car makes 600hp instantly. what is the diffrence between resistor plugs and non resistor plugs? the ngk 9 race p[lugs are non resistor

 

The resistor plugs reduce electrical noise generated by the motor during operation. A possible cause for you car not running could be very high electrical interference disrupting your ems.

 

how do i try to get rid of or reduce the interference to see if thats my problem?

 

the car has i mild wire tuck. i just thought about the fact that the fuel pump 8 gauge wire runs thru the same hole as the rest of the wiring harness thru the heater core hole. could that be the interference?

 

Yes. Also where is your ecu mounted and what else is mounted near it

 

the ecu isnt mounted, just sitting on the floor and the only thing near it is the aem injector driver

 

well we took the aem off thru it in the trash and put crome back on it. cars runs perfect. anybody want to trade a aem for there hondata? im pretty sure im done with aem

 

 

this was the version 1?????

 

I would call AEM and ask for there help...If what you are saying is true, by switching out AEM with Crome I would def. give AEM a call and see what is going on...

 

so you would miss a race cause your to good to put crome on your car?



yeah its the 1040u. its brand new just 4 years old! its been sitting in the car since 2007 but just got back into it and got the car done. so its only seen battery power for about 3 weeks.



im going to call them next week and see about sending the box back. im just so frustrated with aem right now. i was on hold 3 times last week for like 30 min every time and just hung up. i have still yet to talk to anybody that could give me some advice or something to try.

 

HONDATA S3000!!!!!

 

LOL I have AEM now and car wont start with it in.... i used HONDATA and car starts up like a Cadi..smh its fukin retarded!! They tell me my distributer is getting weak thats why it wont start.. God forbid i wanted to drive home

 

My "old version 1" AEM works fine. If you guys wanna throw that **** in the trash, throw it in mine.

 

The triggers on the stock dizzy are less than perfect and alot of EMSs have issues with them.. Get a T1 trigger or an EPM and individual coil setup and the AEM will work fine. Also helps to have somone who knows the system really well. Also, the AEM will likely have issues with non-resistor plugs unless your going through a CDI box first.. The AEM while a little outdated and not the best, its still a step up from stock ECU.

 

i have the t1 trigger and the pro10 i just dont want to wire it all in and still have a problem. we prob did 30-40 runs on the dyno. not all wide open or rev all the way out but the car did fine untill that one last run. it hit 32psi and at about 8600rpm it just fell apart. and hasnt run right since.

 

lol, just get yourself a hondata s300 and you'll be very happy with it. I won't knock on Crome since one of my car went 9.8s on it, but I still prefer an s300 if you choose to stick with the factory ecu. And wire in the MW Pro10 box already to get rid of the factory ignitor. Gap the plugs down to .018 even with the ignition system. Also try to run resistor plugs instead of those race non-resistor plugs, like the NGk 9EIX's or denso IK 27.

 

im def not keeping crome on it! i just wanted to see if it was the car or the aem. crome is way to inconsistent to take a chance of loosing a motor over. but my street car in my sig is on crome and other than at idle the car runs great. were do i need to send my aem to, to get it checked out? is there anybody on here other than aem that can ck them?

 

The aem series1 box is too inconsistent. Depends on how old that aem box of your is, if it's an early box then you'll need to send it back to aem to modify to run the cam trigger. Even then I still see those boxes go out of sync on timing sometimes. I've tuned so many aem series1 boxes on evos 8&9 and now switched to the series 2. Much better starting/idling/drivability, etc. I still strongly reccommend the s300.

 

I repeat...


Ditch the Dizzy use T1 trigger or AEM EPM.
Find somone who knows AEM backwards and forwards.
Put some resistor plugs in the car.

And it will work fine.

Also I've had the ignition lock get stuck on 2 seperate occasions on AEMV1. Everything will look like its working normally in the display, but the ignition actually gets stuck at your lock value.. Try locking and unlocking ignition again and see if it makes a difference.

I wouldn't downgrade back to a S300.

 

ok i keep the aem. does anybody have the settings i need for the t1 trigger and k series coils? what cam/crank teeth and coil options. inj phasing numbers. also i hooked tach wire to ls7 c3 and i still have no tach in dash. does something need to be turned on to make it work? thanks for any help. i used the directions on tony1 website and choose the settings for a 4 channel ign? but car runs like has no timming. smokes out shop at idle its so rich. wont rev out. if any tuners that are good with aem would want some money for me to send my tune to them and work it for me would be greatly appreciated. i have to get this ready for wcf and im running out of time

 

You're in NC ?. Who's tuning the car ?