Im looking at getting an aftermarket high amperage alternator. What kind of amperage are some of you guys having success with. Alterstart has a 135 amp for 179 and a 170 amp for 199. To use the 170 amp ill have to change the plug on my harness so just curious. They dont make the 170 amp for obd1 hondas for some reason. But its just a plug change away.

 

Why would you need more amperage in a drag car? How many accessories are you running?

Got some BOOM BOOM in the trunk when going down the 1320?

Fuel Pump(s), Fan and Water Pump (if electric) would draw maybe 50 amps max? I cant think of much else that would draw all that much current to need extra amperage?

 

more juice equals more juice, right chris?

 

Fuel Pump, MSD, Fans, Gauges. I dont know, im not the only one with an alternator that is beefed up i promise. lol. I'm trying to keep my voltages from dropping and keep everything happy so i dont encounter a problem.

 

i dont see why this would be a bad thing i would love to know whats avail or what others may use.

 

http://www.hlabs.com/technical/fluxpower/


I thought everyone knew about these...

H

 

id rather have an alternator than a cap.

 

Its also a regulator. And can be set to 16volts.

H

 

This is a very good idea for drag racing.....and every drag car should have one. Iam running the 135 amp.....and 2 batteries. Most of the devices noted draw a lot more when under load.

 

I've used them for their intended purposes back in the Mid/late 90's then sent it back to have them modified for 16v for myself and a few OG racers 10years ago. The datalogs for voltage were within .1volt at all times. If you ran 1 Battery you had to have a reserve battery on charge ready to go before the next round. And the battery was hot on the return to the pit..lol

With an excellent built ECU, Top of the line Ign, a very nice set of injectors and a near perfect regulated voltage, somebody could make more power much more efficiently and safer.

H

 

Just get a nice deep cycle full size optima battery like a yellow top if u want to have good amperage the 135amp alternator will do the job. alot people like to use the small battery for Weight reduction but I preffer the full size one for the same reason.

 

+1

 

For those of you running more than a standard alternator, are you BLOWING main fuses? If not, you arent drawing that much current...

Battery is for starting car, or to keep it running for a little while IF the alternator fails...unless the battery is a PROBLEM (drawing current from the alternator), it wont supply any more Amperage to the electrical system to go with a Bigger Battery...unless of course you go with a battery that has more VOLTAGE than a standard 14 volt setup.

Voltage = Resistance * Current
V = R * I

BTW, I am not arguing against a higher amperage alternator...but is there a NEED or USE for it?

 

All I know is the 135 amp alt. Defently helped everything in the car. You should try one.

I ran a 580 oddesy it turned the engine over fine...but that thing defently didn't have enough reserve.

 

I understand that but the alternator will be in a drag car no in a show car. one ur battery is charge u will be good to go just start the engine and race no need to have the car park for hours with everything on ur voltage won't drop at hight rpm With a good size batery and most of drag car don't even have a alternator they just charge the battery every run

 

ill just get the 135amp i guess. lol. Seems like thats a large increase over whether i have a 60 or 80 amp alt. I really dont know which one i have.

 

high output alt. and use a 16v battery !
low amps/voltage= lower fuel pump out put = lean motor ??

 

well you tune for the voltage...but if you run more voltage it makes your pump flow more so thats a plus.

I just refuse to not run without an alternator unless the car is an all motor pro car that needs every ounce of fractions of hp.

 

Haha. You need to study how fuses work.

During a 10 sec time period (say a track pass), a fuse could allow 150% of its faceplate current though.

However, during a short circuit (not overcurrent), instance, they blow almost instantly in a properly designed circuit.

Anyways. I like the full size battery, the small oddysee ones work, but sometimes I leave my keys on, and my battery dies because Im careless like that.. and if you don't charge them just properly.. you fry them. There just not durable. I went though 2 of them in 09 before switching to a optima yellow top.

A properly working standard output alternator is perfectly fine, if your having voltage issues, look elsewhere.

 

I would have to disagree with your last sentence. On these turbo hondas and DSMs spark energy and fuel system capacity are directly related to alternator output and its ability to keep up. The more boost you run...the more amps the fuel pumps are going to pull being its a 1:1 system, thats a given for either car. On a DSM spark energy is a even bigger issue considering its an wastespark ignition system. The more volts thats being pulled by other 12V components (fans, headlights, fuel pumps, stereo) etc. the less voltage thats going to be available at the coil. The less voltage available at the coil..in return is just going to generate a misfire under boost that you will chase for days until you've replaced every part on your ca....until you log battery voltage under boost and see it fall off in the upper rpm band.. Think about it, the stock alternators are barely able to keep up with the cars in stock form with EVERYTHING running at one time, add in 25-30psi of boost, another fuel pump to keep up with E85 fuel demands, and another fan to keep the engine cool...at WOT all your amerage output from the oem alternator is going to be used at full capacity. On my personal car ive swapped to a saturn 160amp alternator with a self exciting regulator, stupid simple hookup...run a 4 guage wire from the alternator output post too the positive battery terminal and your done, finished. The regulator locks in voltage to 14.4V at idle until WOT then it will goto 13.5-13.6 at 37psi. On my oem 75amp alternator at just 32psi...battery voltage at WOT would drop too 11.7V giving a me a huge misfire under boost. The 160amp alternator w/self exciting regulator was well worth the investment for 160bucks shipped.

 

on a drag car you shouldnt need an alternator. switch to a 16volt battery and just charge it between runs. if this isnt a drag car then i would begin to wonder why you would need more amperage then a stock alternator.

 

I dont need to study anything, yes there are two different types of fuses, but Honda didnt design its fuse system around a track pass...LOL

 

Not everyone wants to deal with the hassle of charging their battery every pass, thats really quite the pita. Some people with race cars like to take theirs out on the street once in a blue moon, to a local meet or show.

 

i have what may be a dumb question. i have been under the impression you can NOT supply 16 volts to something like the s300. is this the case?

i want to eliminate my alt. but i have tried turning it off going down the track in the past and the log showed voltage dropped to 11.3 at the end of the run. the run started at close to 14 volts. this is w/ a standard full size battery.

i was thinking of switching to a 16 volt battery but that brings me back to the question i asked...

btw this is an allmotor car

 

my car runs better and i get better milage with a higher amp alt and a second bat and my lights dont dim when at an idle not sure about the s300