edsperformance

what supose to be a good aligment specs for a true st, or outlaw car
and what things take in consideration,thanks for looking

ahobbs

1/8in in toe .5 camber if my memory serves me right. each car is diff though

Garage 808 Hatch

1/8" of total toe out, and -.5* of camber is what ive ran. cars felt very stable and had good contact patch and even wear

ahobbs

yeah my fault i forgot the negative lol. Thought it but didnt type it

Zer0_SpeedWorks

iTrader: (1)

good info! thanks!

061000rr

iTrader: (2)

are you guys setting the camber and toe with the car setting flat on the ground or rack or are you trying to lift the car up some to compensate the way the car lifts going down the track?

96 GSR-T

I was always told to make sure your sitting in the car and raise it up in the front a little.
But when you raise it up do you still want that -.5 deg of camber or do you want it at 0

.adam.

i think they are aligning it to those specifications to compensate for when the car lifts under acceleration.

E Town DSM

you want front toe out makes the car more stable under hard acceleration which is what you truly care about

ahobbs

With you sitting in it you want it .-5 I'd care more about toe

sweetfwdthunder

iTrader: (2)

so..is it toe in or toe out? lol

E Town DSM

Under hard accel the tires tend to toe into each other so you want them toed out about a 1\8 inch so when your under hard accel they pull themselves straight and you have a nice stable non darting car up top thats also not scrubbing off a lot of speed. Same setup used on record setting fwd's

Garage 808 Hatch

its been a while, but now that i think about it, this is what we did. toe out, so as the tire drives forward, it toes in some

Stealthmode Performance

Subscribed for any/all info regarding what people are doing.

redboost10

Toe out, negative camber, positive caster...don't bind suspension. And balance front end. You can also mess with preload

ChrisStone24

Great thread.

ThA5oLuTiOn

Doesnt it already "Toe out" when you coming out the line at the track, I thought it was "Toe in" so when you come out the line it could get to "Toe out" position which will have the tires straight. I need to try "Toe out" once im done with project.

E Town DSM

Picture the tires toed out under hard accel they are trying to pull inwards which will usually if toed out the right amount end up pretty straight. Goal is stability and not scrubbing off speed under accel. I could careless what the alingment says sitting in the garage.

Krut

Torque of the motor twisting the axles tends to pull the wheels toe'd in under hard accel, So you want it set toe'd out so It comes back close to 0 as your going down the track.

E Town DSM

Maybe a rwd is different im speaking for fwd cars.

CO_RaceFab

This has been covered time and time again except in every other thread about this they say toe in which would make sense to me since when the car lifts its pulls the tie rods in which results in a tow out condition. But what do i know i 60ft like **** and my car is toed out from some alignment i got last season.

theidealone

Plus, when you lower a car, doesnt it toe out? So the opposite would be that it would toe in if you lift it. So...

If when you launch, the front end lifts, it will toe in. So if you set it slightly toed out, when it lifts, it will toe in to 0. Just my thoughts.

And great thread. Im doing my alignment next week. So this was great timing for me.

RootBur

I align my car with the jack on our lift, lifting up on the subframe about a 1/4-1/2"

boostedcivicsir

im a slacker with camber. stock spec on the toe, and as much caster as my traction bars would allow.

aligned with the stock wheels, set ride height with me in the car, aligned with me in the car.

EDLOVA23

how does positive caster help?