aligment specs
#26
#27
Mr. Badwrench
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Re: aligment specs
the further you can get the lower ball joint out (positive caster) the faster you go, it will "drive the wheel straighter"
you know when you come out of a turn and let the wheel go and it straightens itself out? that comesfrom positive caster.
my car liked to turn left for some ungldly reason.
set the toe to stock, ride height with me in the car, and put as much positive caster as i could get, and she tracks nice and straight now.
you know when you come out of a turn and let the wheel go and it straightens itself out? that comesfrom positive caster.
my car liked to turn left for some ungldly reason.
set the toe to stock, ride height with me in the car, and put as much positive caster as i could get, and she tracks nice and straight now.
#28
Honda-Tech Member
Re: aligment specs
Only problem ive seen with pulling the arms forward with the traction bars to get more caster\ lengthen the wheel base is it binds the suspension up some but hey if it works for you. There is more than one way to skin a cat. I think everyone has there tricks to making it go straight
#29
Honda-Tech Member
Re: aligment specs
I just set mine today. Well see how it goes next month. We just tried to keep the traction bar pulling the wheel forward (positive caster) but for some reason, regardless of how we adjusted the caster, the machine wouldnt show it. So I tried to eyeball them even, and locked it there. The camber we set to -.5*, then lifted the front to zero. From there, we set the toe to zero with it lifted. When we set it back down, it showed -.5* camber, and -.12* toe, with me in the car. The rear we just tried to get it in spec, and called it good.
#30
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Re: aligment specs
So it is going toe out when it lifts... thats what i thought... can u get me on this rack curtis? Ill pay whatever i just need a guy that understands what we are trying to do and will spend the time it takes... the guys up my way are all **** kicking hill billys
#31
Honda-Tech Member
Re: aligment specs
Naw, it toes in when it lifts. So you set it toed out, so when it lifts it toes in to zero.
And yea, I think he only works Mondays, and usually like after 5. But its a cool little low key shop in the sticks. We messed with it for a good 2 hours or more. But hes all the way in Elizabeth. Send me a text or something, and Ill get you in touch with him.
And yea, I think he only works Mondays, and usually like after 5. But its a cool little low key shop in the sticks. We messed with it for a good 2 hours or more. But hes all the way in Elizabeth. Send me a text or something, and Ill get you in touch with him.
#33
Honda-Tech Member
Re: aligment specs
Yea, -.12 was toed out, with the front of the tires pointing out. Positive is pointing in.
Ill see him tomorrow, so Ill ask him.
Ill see him tomorrow, so Ill ask him.
#37
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#38
Mr. Badwrench
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Re: aligment specs
Only problem ive seen with pulling the arms forward with the traction bars to get more caster\ lengthen the wheel base is it binds the suspension up some but hey if it works for you. There is more than one way to skin a cat. I think everyone has there tricks to making it go straight
and i dont drive it on the street so i couldnt tell you any other effects.
#42
Honda-Tech Member
Re: aligment specs
Yea, I talked to him about resweeping the front, and he said he forgot. Well probably throw it back on at a later date. For driving it on the streets, it feels really straight, so Im not too worried.
And yea, we did my alignment with me in the driver's seat. Weird thing about that. Me sitting in the car effected the passenger side more than the driver's side.
Easiest way for me to do it was to sit in the car, see where it was at, and calculate how much I should take or add, to be where I wanted it to be. Then get out, take that amount from it. Like say my camber was -1.0 when I was out, then -1.4 when I was in, and I wanted it to be -0.5 with me in. I took -0.9 (or added 0.9) to it, so it was -0.1 with me out. When I got back in, it was at -0.5.
Then we just used the jack on the rack to raise the front till my camber was zero. Seemed like a fair amount for my car to shift when launched. At that height we zero'd the toe. So when its back down, the toe is slightly out, and when it raises the camber and toe zero at the same point.
And yea, we did my alignment with me in the driver's seat. Weird thing about that. Me sitting in the car effected the passenger side more than the driver's side.
Easiest way for me to do it was to sit in the car, see where it was at, and calculate how much I should take or add, to be where I wanted it to be. Then get out, take that amount from it. Like say my camber was -1.0 when I was out, then -1.4 when I was in, and I wanted it to be -0.5 with me in. I took -0.9 (or added 0.9) to it, so it was -0.1 with me out. When I got back in, it was at -0.5.
Then we just used the jack on the rack to raise the front till my camber was zero. Seemed like a fair amount for my car to shift when launched. At that height we zero'd the toe. So when its back down, the toe is slightly out, and when it raises the camber and toe zero at the same point.
#44
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Re: aligment specs
Its basically when you set the alignment machine to measure the caster again after you adjust it, to ensure you are getting accurate readings. Usually after a caster adjustment the computer will display readings that deviate slightly from what they actually are.
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Re: aligment specs
I just set mine today. Well see how it goes next month. We just tried to keep the traction bar pulling the wheel forward (positive caster) but for some reason, regardless of how we adjusted the caster, the machine wouldnt show it. So I tried to eyeball them even, and locked it there. The camber we set to -.5*, then lifted the front to zero. From there, we set the toe to zero with it lifted. When we set it back down, it showed -.5* camber, and -.12* toe, with me in the car. The rear we just tried to get it in spec, and called it good.