Richard123vmt

I got the results of my smog test. Not hopeless but I failed with high hydrocarbons at idle. There is a vacuum leak which seems to be coming from the gasket surface. I quickly found out there is no gasket as such but instead the huge rubber insulator.
I am trying to remove the carb but something is holding it in the rear, preventing me from lifting it high enough to remove the insulator. It isn't the cuttoff valve I have removed all the hoses visible on top: from the choke, fule lines, red line that runs above the pass. side rear carb nut, etc. I don't know what there is underneath in the rear but that is what's holding it down.
Any advice appreciated. Do these insulators often leak? I am planning on resealing it with rtv. My carb cleaner spray test pinpoints the gasket area and I am hoping I don't have a leak at the throttle shaft. If so, it is a much bigger problem.
I am parked on the street unregistered (until I get smogged) which is a very unpleasant position to be in.
On the bright side, apart from this leak the only other problem was lack a vacuum to my egr valve. I blew into the hose and seemed like it was disconnected somewhere downstream--will be easier to investigate if/when I get the carb off. With those two things taken care of, I am ready to pass.

Richard123vmt

Not as simple or cheap as I hoped. There is no caerburetor base gasket. What there is is a carburetor flange mount and it costs over $100. I planned to seal up the old one with something but when I had a look at it I realized it was shot so I bit the bullet and got the new one.
When I had the carb reinstalled and beginning to button it up, an ill wind blew my way and somehow I broke a brass fuel line fitting. So (although it by no means was as automatic as this) I removed the carburetor again, took it inside and drilled out the remaining brass tube. I had the old one, but chose instead to use a fuller length substitute from a different carb I had. The same diameter but without the sealing bulge near the lip--but good enough. The broken off part would have worked but less in the carb and less for the hose. So, after drilling out the hole I JB Welded the new fitting in. Given a full 24 hours, it will be as good as new. If accidents like that happened all the time nothing would work. But it happened and I"m just glad I was able to fix it. Now I have only to hope no shavings got in the carb.
While experiencing this disaster, it occurred to me that it would be easy to break a metal line on the vacuum manifold behind the carb. That would be a great mess to figure out. I am sure it happens a lot too. With an old car, the parts have been flexed before.
Tomrrow I will still be waiting for the epoxy to harden fully so I will work on the turn signals. I replaced the signal arm and tested it out--worked fine. But now somehow no signal lights whatsoever--although the headlight switch still works. At least I know it did work for a while so it will be something simple. And it will keep me busy because I want that epoxy to fully cure before I start knocking it into things. I really think JB Weld is still curing after a week.

cbstd

Richard,

Welcome to the site. Another really good source of info for the old Civic (it is known as a 3rd Gen Civic) is http://www.redpepperracing.com. Lots of info, good people.

You have a challenge on your hands. Normally I would suggest sourcing parts from a local junkyard, but up in your neighborhood there may not be a junkyard filled with old Hondas.

I hope all of your glue holds and that you pass the test.

Scott

Richard123vmt

CBSTD, you've got that right. There was one civic which I couldn't get them to hold from crushing while I harvested parts. A pick n pull would be a godsend. I've got the carburetor back in and working but now I am worried about the throttle shaft leakage. I amy have to have the carb rebushed--there again a pick n pull might have a $25 option. I wonder if anyone knows the exact diamneter of the throttle shaft? I have a shop which only supplies certain sizes. I am going to post this as a seperate question.

Richard123vmt

Incidentally, I did find out what's wrong with my signal lights. Simple: the hazard switch was partly engaged. I got the answer from reviewing yahoo answers! It looks like the solution to my smog-reistration quagmire is to take the car down for vehicle verification and register it without the smog certificate. Then at leadt I will be legal on the street (I think?) But to drive there with out of state plates and no registration AND no turn signals would be bad odds. Now with the turn signals working, I will be okay and once registered the pressure is off.
I know I could temporarily seal up the throttle shaft with rtv and get it through smog. For that matter, I don't actually know that it will not now smog. (A carb expert told me that squirting carb cleaner at the throttle will ALWAYS give a speed change. Trouble is I don't know hiow much.) But if the shaft leaks excessively I don't mind rebushing it. I have alternative transportation, so I can take the time to send it somewhere if necessary.