shortstopNE

I have searched and found they make mounts/axles and horsepower freaks has done conversion harnesses. I was wondering if anybody had done this or knows a good link.

2ndGenGuy

This is a great link for what you're looking for:

shortstopNE

Did you just make a joke bobby?

shortstopNE

So far I have innovative mounts a $319, hasport axles at $299, is the first/second gen crx linkage the same for b series? I'm assuming the rest is like a basic swap with the rear bracket, motor,tranny. Only thing is to send my stock harness and b16 harness int hasport/hpf/rywire and they will convert it for me and be pretty much set aftet that.

staticchmbr

you need modified shift linkage i think (cut and reweld your existing). also, check out www.redpepperracing.com. the site is dedicated to 84-87 crxs and civics.

E-AT_me

your car is carburated. you will need to add a fuel pump and a lot of wires.

no, 1st gen/2nd gen linkages are NOT the same.

shortstopNE

Alright thanks guys. Havn't had a chance to look at it much because I can't pick the car up until Monday. Any way to tell if its dx/hf? Guy doesn't know and the car does have factory ac so I thought it was a dx.

shortstopNE

looking into more now, seems like it will be a lot of work and I would need an 85-87 si pretty much. Looks like I will make it a MPG killer. Thanks guys

staticchmbr

theres about the same amount of work involved with a dx as an si. you dont NEED an si, but it will make wiring a bit easier.

shortstopNE

Well got about 2 months of researching, some smaller things I am still unsure of. the b series axles fit into the crx hubs or do I need to swap to 86-89 integra hubs? I know I have to add a fuel pump, wiring, etc. I just need to know about the front knuckles and which rear bracket that I need. I am also considering the d16a1 swap for now due to cost and ease of swapping.

E-AT_me

you need the teg front knuckles for either swap. rear bracket is 99-00 si.

anjin

I swapped in a complete b series wiring harness and instrument cluster and light/indicator switches from a front cut. Made the engine ecu harness bit easy, and a 10 year younger harness was a bonus. Just spliced in the rear harness. Its a route to consider. If you do this, also look at moving the engine bay fuse assembly into the cabin, as this cleans up the engine bay. (I also swapped in the DC2 integra dash, but thats another story)

This swap into this shell is a lot of work, but its well worth it - close to doubles your wheel horsepower. Budget a couple of months.

shortstopNE

Thanks man!

shortstopNE

Pm sent.


I had been considering doing an obd1 civic engine/dash harnes, cluster in the crx and pretty much gutting my car just for a fun project. Going to be looking into all the wires, sounds easy and cheaper then sending it in to be converted.

powerwheels86

iTrader: (2)

amazed that no one suggested rpr's wiki... hit up Redpepperracing.com and visit the wiki, i'm in between a swap right now and even though i can't work on the car right now i still read that wiki... hahaha

anjin

red pepper racing is very good.

CRX-UK at http://board.hondacrx.co.uk is worth a look, as is Ist Integration at http://www.g1teg.org.

anjin

I'm posting the response to the pm - need the post count!

I spent a couple of weeks taking excess wire out of the harness. Had the wiring and engine etc hooked around a frame, and tested bits with the battery hooked up The original frontcut was a 4 door integra, with srs, abs, power windows, heated seats, auto transmission. Took about 4 kilos of excess wire out, and only made two mistakes. A mate is doing the same from an eg hatchie, and has a lot less excess to remove. He also carved out the gen 1 crx dash to take the eg cluster - not pretty but its there. If you are taking the dash out, then it becomes very easy - just take all the original wiring out from the drivers seat forward, and replace it. All you have to do then is connect up the headlights, indicators and wipers at the steering column, and at the lights and the wiper. ECU is a straight plug in. You may have to play with immobilisers and gear interlocks - I threw all that away. One thing to note - the steering column support can get in the way of the optimum cluster position - be prepared to compromise a bit.

My red pepper album is here - won't be a lot of use re wiring however - http://www.redpepperracing.com/gallery/v/anjin/

Things to definitely remember that don't always make it into project builds.
Make the dent in the engine rail bigger that you think you need. I'd try to spot weld it in that place as well if you can do this easily, just as insurance. NOT essential
Measure up where your intake will go, and dent the firewall at least an inch where the iacv/eacv will go. I didn't and I couldn't get the bolts out later. If you have stripped out the air distribution box this is easy.
Have a think about where to route the fuel line and fuel filter in relation to the fuel rail. You want to have this sorted before you emplace the engine.
Think about replacing the master cylinder as part of the exercise. Note that the ITR booster and mc I put in doesn't fit into lhd shells.
Be a bit careful with the drive shafts and lowering the car. Lowering decreases the distance from the gearbox to the hub, and I have heard the odd report of binding in corners. My custom axles are a bit shorter than the hasports, and they were measured up with the car at the desired ride height. Not a significant issue unless you want to ride with the radius arms horizontal. The hasports are the proven way to go, in case you started wondering. I did custom as I am literally the other side of the world.
You will need to lengthen the brace and shift levers. Do this late in the build, and spent time getting the shifter linkage length right for your seating position. I moved mine backwards about two inches. There is also a nice way of replacing the usual linkage with the steering column linkage to reduce slop and gain adjustability if you are up for it.
I highly recommend an lsd.

Thats about all I can recall at the moment. Enjoy the build, do it properly, and enjoy the result. The combination is very nice, and provided you are semi-sensible the B will give you reliable service and lots of fun. By reliable I mean it took me 18 months to remember to check the spark plugs. It was that good. Just keep changing the oil.