i installed my alpine 15'' type-r sub and alpine 1000watt mono amp with the 2f RF cap.it felt like it was bumpin a tiny bit but no where near what it should have been. i have the subwoofer turned on in the settings on my HU. the mono amp is getting power. i believe its getting signal from the RCA's because i disconnected the ones i had ran from the HU and connected a pair from the pre-amp outputs on my alpine 4-chan amp i already had in there to the mono amp.
the only thing i can think of is when i was running the wire in the sub box i tried stapling it to the box with a staple gun and i shot through the wire a few times. i pulled the staples out and just used plastic wire holders. maybe i messed up the wire? i would figure it would either fully work or fully not work if the wire was the problem. i have a dual-4ohm sub wired into 2ohm. i checked all connections and anything i could think of. unless i have a defective sub or amp i dunno what it could be. if its a defect which do you think it is the sub,amp,or both?
im going to try switching out the wire tomorrow.

much appreciate any help.



Modified by zsudz922 at 12:05 AM 7/30/2008

 

When you "switch out the wire" make sure you wired the VCs in phase with each other, out of phase wiring would result in very low output. 94

 

i tried everything else i could possibly think of. i checked my wiring a million times, its all good. i tried running a couple old subs i had, that i know work, on the mono amp and those subs didnt work either. i bypassed the cap to see if that was the problem,still didnt work. i think the amp is defective. this sucks. guess i gotta send it back and wait for a new one.

 

What is the model number of the amp?
How old is the amp? 94

 

its the alpine mrp-m1000. its brand new, i just got the package yesterday.
i wouldnt expect a defective product from them. ive had good experiences with their products so far. they are supposed to be pretty high quality, reliable stuff.


Modified by zsudz922 at 3:38 PM 7/30/2008

 

Did you get the amp from an authorized Alpine dealer?

Try this, using a 9V batt, touch the speaker lead from the sub to the terminals of the batt., the sub cone should move out, [or in, depending on which speaker lead is touching the batt. pos.(+) terminal] you should also hear a "pop" out of the sub.

If all you get is a little "pop" and no movement of the subs cone, the VCs are wired out of phase. 94

 

no, i got it from onlinecarstereo. it still has a 1 year warranty through them though. i figured buying alpine i wouldnt have much if any problems with their stuff.
ill try doing what you said when i get some free time. i had it wired in parallel. what do you mean by "out of phase"? the wiring from the VCs to the sub?

 

Make sure that when you wire the VCs in parallel that you go from the pos.(+) of the first VC to the pos.(+) of the second VC, then to the amp, and from the neg.(-) of the first VC to the neg.(-) of the second VC, then to the amp.
Going from the pos.(+) of one VC to the neg.(-) of the second VC and from the neg.(-) of the first VC to the pos.(+) of the second VC would still be parallel but out of phase, resulting in the VCs working against each other and very little output. 94

 

yeah i did it right. i ran the positive of one VC to the positive of the other VC. then neg on one VC to the neg on the other VC. i connected the positive end speaker wire to the positive of the first VC and the negative end of the wire to the neg on the other VC.
the sub didnt bump at all but if you put your hand on it you could feel it a little bit.

thanks for all your help man.

 

Have you tried "popping" it with a 9V batt.? 94

 

havent had a chance yet. ive been really busy. should i have it wired when i do that or doesnt it matter? i still have it wired for 2ohm.

 

You need to disconnect it from the amp and touch the leads to the batt. 94

 

ok i did it. i put i wire in the + and - of one the VCs on the sub. the touched it to the 9v batt and the sub made a distinctive pop noise and moved in, then out with a pop noise when i switched the + and - around. so thats what it should do right? does this tell me that my sub is not defective and should work fine when i get the new amp?

 

Yes it does.

 

^^ haha you like that quote? when i turned it up to 110amp it worked great.

 

Yes I do.

 

"i put i wire in the + and - of one the VCs on the sub" You will have to translate that, it sounds to me like you "pulsed" one of the subs VCs, which is not what I asked you to try, and if that is what you did then it only told you that that one VC had continuity, it says nothing about it or the sub being any good or not.

What I asked you to try was...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to disconnect it from the amp and touch the leads to the batt. 94</TD></TR></TABLE> Meaning, leave the sub wired in the box, disconnect the speaker lead at the amp and touch them to the batt. the test is to confirm that you have the VCs wired in phase, not whether the sub is good or not, other tests can be done to to see if the speaker is good. 94

 

ok i got what your saying now. see i put the sub back in its packaging and stuff. so there are no speaker leads to the amp on it, i just have the jumper wire on it connecting the two VCs. ill do it over again just to see what happens.
what test can i run on the sub to make sure it works correctly and is not defective or anything? this is what i am worried about. i want to make sure the sub is not a defective item.

 

The batt. pulse test is the first thing, [both VCs wired] or you can pulse each VC separately to test for continuity, but wired together to test for phasing.
If you have a multimeter you can test the DC resistance of the VCs, they should both be the same, not necessarily exactly 4 ohms but 3.something but both the same.

You can push the cone in by hand and listen/feel for scraping at the VCs, [burnt VCs].

Although a little tricky with a 15" hold it, [by the magnet] with one hand pointing the cone towards an ear and hitting the back of the magnet sharply with the other hand and listening for a rattle at the VCs, [separated VCs].

But the best way is still listening to them, to see/hear if they are OK.

If the tests above are good, pulsing the VCs with a batt., pulsing the VCs when wired together, burnt VC test and separated VC test and DC resistance test if you have a meter, but still no sound, [or very little sound] then the problem is the amp. 94

 

sweet, thanks alot man. the sub checks out good as far as i can tell. just have to wait for the new amp to arrive now. much appreciate the help.

 

HELP ME PLEASE! so i got a new amp alpine pdx 1.1000 and its still doing the same thing. im completely lost as to what is wrong unless this amp is somehow defective too, but the possibility of getting to defective amps in a row from two different places is very slim i would think.
any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I got it fixed! It's bumpin real good.