just wondering if this sub is blown

there is no movment from the cone, and if you tap it its sounds like a dull thud, and u can hear something vibrate/rattle

 

Yes it is "blown" it has at the very least a delaminated VC, [rattle] and more then likely a burnt VC, [no cone movement] does it smell burnt?
Depending on the brand, you may be able to have it re-coned, about 1/2 the price of replacing it. 94

 

yes burnt, somebody else told me its "seized"

regardless a&bsound is replacing it *shrug*

its a clarion btw

somebody else told me this:
"try to keep the ohms at the rating, keep the amp set at a low tolerance level, like under 40Hz. also make sure you set the system up so that there's no chance of it being overpowered. set the deck at maximum volume, then turn the gain on the amp slowly until you're running at the sub's reccomended RMS. that way you'll have no way of overpowering the sub. "

how do i determine the when the sub is in the recommended rms range while turning down the gain?

 

another question

i got 3 subs sitting here.

i take an ohm meter and check the coil (negative to negative, positive to positive)

sub 1 gets 3.3 sub 2 gets 7.4 and sub 3 gets 5.0

all the subs are 4 ohm subs

so what do the numbers mean?


hey fcm... curious howcome the 94 is always at the end of ur posts?? hmmm...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c0nspire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">regardless a&bsound is replacing it *shrug*</TD></TR></TABLE> LOL, guess who I work for?
I need a little more info, make and model of amp and sub/s.
Are you running 1 or 3 subs?
The testing you are doing with a multimeter on the subs is giving you the "electrical" impedance of the VC the 3.3 would indicate a 4 ohm VC, the 7.4 would indicate an 8 ohm VC, and the 5.0 would indicate a burnt 4 ohm VC, the 7.4 could also indicate a burnt 4 ohm VC.
There are a few ways to set up a system, [subs] none of them involve setting the deck at "maximum volume" unless that means before clipping, and depending on the unit you have, on a scale of 1 to 10 somewhere around 7 will be the point that the HUs internal amp will start to clip, or the point that the HUs pre amp output will over saturate the input stage of an external amp, assuming everything else is OK.
The above statement is simplistic, and there are other factors to deal with, when setting up the system.
The RMS and the impedance of the sub is determined by it's model number, EG: a 4 ohm 250W sub will always be a 4 ohm 250W sub.
With an amp it's a little different, there are diff. ways to "rate" an amp EG: an amp that is rated as 250W RMS into 4 ohms at 12VDC can/is also a 500W RMS into 2 ohms at 12VDC, and just to throw a wrench into that there are some amps that have the same RMS output no matter what the impedance load is, JL Audio "e" class amps are an example of this kind of amp.
One of the things that has to be taken into account, [and it's why I asked] is if you have more then one sub or you have a DVC sub, [dual voice coil] is how are they wired, [in series or parallel] EG: if you are running 3 x 4 ohm subs and they are wired in parallel the amp would see a 1.333 ohm load, and if you have an amp that is rated at 250W into 4 ohms, it would be putting out over 500W into that 1.333 ohm load, one more wrench, [again depending on the amp] if the amp is not stable below 2 ohms, you have a problem.
Get me the makes and models, and the number of subs you are running and if you are using the HUs internal amp. and I can help with the set up.
One more thing, did you just get the sub at A&B or everything and did you have it installed there, [if so, what was the installers name?] 94

 

uhmm lets see..

3 subs in a crx, lol, i think 1 10" is enough

no jus subs i had in the basement, i was just kind of curious wat the reading meant

and they all work. all are 4ohm. they arent being used at the moment.

the sub in question is a clarion srw1025 on a clarion amp (forget model number) but the amps rated @ 300W x 2 @ 4 ohms

the reading on that one (burnt vc) was .33

and regardless off the crazy numbers from the other they all work very well, 2 of them are now in a friends car, and one in another friends car, and the last is sitting in my basement until i can make a new box for it and put it in my car.

fcm i see your here in bc, i was just wondering, i like playign around with car electronics, and making/helping friends with custom audio stuff and am interested in possibly becoming and installer.

just wondering, any courses, or classes, or anythign you recommend that i take? well thanks

and the guy i deal with at a&b is named ty maugerty

 

Check them out, the best in Canada http://www.mobiledynamics.com/main/enter.html 94

 

any recomendations for anything more local or do i pretty much gotta go to toronto?

 

hmm 8 week course, not bad

did you attend this school fcm??

do you know how much the course is?? i have requested a broucher so ill get that soon. guess ill hafta register pretty soon.

in the mean time i am reading as much as i can on the12volt.com


Modified by c0nspire at 4:16 PM 10/11/2005

 

Yes, I started a long time ago, when the 2 guys that started it, still worked for Alpine Canada in TO, they ran Alpines tech support and "Alpine school", back in the days when Alpine would fly you out to TO, put you up, feed you, and train you, all for free, they had "schools" for car audio and car alarm, and one week "high end" coarse, where we would build 2 or 3 Alpine demo cars, ahhh the old days
Now you pay, or you work for someone that will pay for the training "modules" that Mobile Dynamics puts on in Vancouver at least once a year, It's the same coarse, but broken up into 2 or 3 day "modules" and dealing in just one part of installing at a time, and you can take your MECP tests.
Over the years I have taken all the "modules" and all have been paid for by AVU or A&B sound.
If you can afford it, take the coarse in TO, it makes it a lot easier to get a job in the industry if you can put that on your resume, or if you are OK at installing your friends stuff, try and get a job as a rookie installer some place and take advantage of any schooling they will pay for.
There is also a lot of info on installing online, that can help you get that first job places like http://www.the12volt.com 94

 

well im waiting for the brochure to see how much the school / living accomodations is.

+ i hafta go to a&b today and swap that sub so i can talk to ty about it while im there.

other than the12volt anythign else? ive read pretty much everythign on there relating to car audio, just gotta read thru the car security stuff and then start going thru the forums

hehe yea, my parents get mad at me because i usually have a friends car in the driveway and im playing with something, or installing something else...
aha just today i installed a sub in one car, a deck in another, and fixed the radio wiring harness in a friends civic,

fcm do u have an email address where it might be easier to talk about matters such as this?

thanks for all your help


Modified by c0nspire at 1:58 AM 10/12/2005

 

You can just IM me 94