Sub and amp
Got the sub today it is a Pioneer TS-W300R and a 250 watt bazooka amp. This is my first system and i dont want something very powerful just something that bumps a little. Would this sound good? Also it came with the wiring would this be able to work on my car seeing how it came out of an s10? And if i want to upgrade later can i use the same wiring and just remove the amp and sub and hook up the new on to the wires?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deerman2701 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got the sub today it is a Pioneer TS-W300R and a 250 watt bazooka amp. This is my first system and i dont want something very powerful just something that bumps a little. Would this sound good? Also it came with the wiring would this be able to work on my car seeing how it came out of an s10? And if i want to upgrade later can i use the same wiring and just remove the amp and sub and hook up the new on to the wires? </TD></TR></TABLE>
amp wiring kits are universal, it will work, as for how it will sound okay, is it a 10 inch or 12, a 12 will sound much better than a 10. what type of box are you putting it in?
amp wiring kits are universal, it will work, as for how it will sound okay, is it a 10 inch or 12, a 12 will sound much better than a 10. what type of box are you putting it in?
well with sealed sub you'll get accurate bass, it wont be as loud as ported or bandpass, but its a clean cut bass. ported is generates a louder bass, but its not as accurate or as deep. if you have a trunk, ported would be best, but if a hatchback i would recommend a sealed box for deeper bass. question is do you want people to hear you at the light? if your trunk rattles then they will hear, if not then they probably would not hear you.
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theres no need to go to best buy, now would be best to try out your skills, but if your not confident enough, ask a friend, I'm sure you have at least one that knows about installing amps and stereos. You'll waste money going to best buy. All it is is hooking up wires together, but if you really know no one, then i guess to best buy, but i feel its hardly worth it. Get your self a good sub, something like from jl, Image dynamics, re, Memphis, orion hcca or something higher quality. they will give most bang for the buck, i love jl, cuz they are under rated and everything is real watts. I have one jl 12w3v2 d4 in a sealed box, with a 250 amp and they bump harder then my friends 2 12's which are pioneers, but thats probably cuz its in a hatchback, but you get the idea tho.
for my power and ground wire, im using 4-gauge wire. I know i dont need to get a wire that big, but i know i am going to upgrade my amp to something much bigger and Im using 12 gauge speaker wires. Its not an elaborate set up, but it works for me.
I am using a 4 gauge power wire from battery to amp and 8 gauge ground. I was thinkin g of getting a sealing box with a new sub. Is there a way to have my bass lower on the speakers but keep the same bass on the sub because when i lower the bass on the stereo both the speakers and the sub lower.
What kind of headunit you have, if you have an aftermarket, you should have a sub out put, and by having that, you should be able to control how much bass you want coming from the sub. as for ground, any where would do really as long and you can bolt the ground wire down, but what i would do is sand the area down to metal so that you can get a better connection. I bolt mines down to one of the trunk bolts. You can get a component speaker set, they come with cross overs that will automatically filter out bass from tweeters, and prevent too much bass getting into the speakers. Your deck, should have cross overs, if not you might want to get a better deck. What car are you going to put them in, a hatch, coupe, truck, or suv?
there is a hole in your engine bay going from all the wires from your fuse box threw your side panels above your wheels into the engine bay same on every car but you can run your power wire there
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