so i install my cd player and i get static on my right front. what may be the problem, will mating half the wires to the front for the rear and vice versa do this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeperrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> will mating half the wires to the front for the rear and vice versa do this?</TD></TR></TABLE> Say what? 94

 

like if i connect right front + to right rear positive will that do that?

plus the back of the deck gets REALLY hot really fast, is that normal

and my tuner is way louder , like twice as loud

 

still have the static problem, and my stock radio gets really hot pretty fast, is that normal? not to mention everytime i get back in my car my radio turns on but there is no sound, i have to unplug the harness and replug it then i get sound...?

 

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but I'm having the same problem in my '90 Si after installing my deck and 4 new pioneer 6 1/2" 3-ways. The CD's are way hot when I remove them also.

Anyone have any input on the situation? I was thinking of running all new speaker wires but not sure if it'll make a difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeperrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still have the static problem, and my stock radio gets really hot pretty fast, is that normal? not to mention everytime i get back in my car my radio turns on but there is no sound, i have to unplug the harness and replug it then i get sound...?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can NOT "mix" your speaker pos.(+) and neg.(-) in any way, it is a short that will eventually blow the output stage of the HU.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BAZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to bring this back from the dead but I'm having the same problem in my '90 Si after installing my deck and 4 new pioneer 6 1/2" 3-ways. The CD's are way hot when I remove them also.

Anyone have any input on the situation? I was thinking of running all new speaker wires but not sure if it'll make a difference. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean the same problem, static on the RF speaker or HU getting hot, or both? 94

 

Yeah you gotta be more clear. Most aftermarket HU's with built in amps get pretty hot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



What do you mean the same problem, static on the RF speaker or HU getting hot, or both? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have both problems, I used to have this deck in my last vehicle and I dont remember it getting this hot. I also noticed today that the static starts to happen after I've been playing music for a while at a higher volume, maybe I'm just imagining it but thats what it seems like. The deck is an older Clarion (DXZ745MP I think) and the speakers are some new 6 1/2 inch 3 way pioneers I got from best buy.

 

I would pull the HU and meter the speaker leads for speaker impedance, [4 ohms +/-] continuity to ground, [there should be none] and continuity to each other, [there should be none]

The other possible problem may be that the HUs internal amp is clipping, [continuously] it would cause heat buildup, an overheating/clipping amps output would be distorted.

A probable cause for a clipping amp is lack of current, if the HU is using the stock radio harness ground and constant power you will need to "beef" them up.

Run a fused 12ga lead from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs constant power, [probably yellow] to the 12ga, don't forget to cap off the stock radio harness constant power your no longer using.

Continue using the stock ground for your HUs ground but add a 12ga chassis to chassis ground, if your HUs chassis is already grounded to the cars chassis, [dash sub frame, or stock rear support bar] the 12ga ground is not needed. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would pull the HU and meter the speaker leads for speaker impedance, [4 ohms +/-] continuity to ground, [there should be none] and continuity to each other, [there should be none]

The other possible problem may be that the HUs internal amp is clipping, [continuously] it would cause heat buildup, an overheating/clipping amps output would be distorted.

A probable cause for a clipping amp is lack of current, if the HU is using the stock radio harness ground and constant power you will need to "beef" them up.

Run a fused 12ga lead from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs constant power, [probably yellow] to the 12ga, don't forget to cap off the stock radio harness constant power your no longer using.

Continue using the stock ground for your HUs ground but add a 12ga chassis to chassis ground, if your HUs chassis is already grounded to the cars chassis, [dash sub frame, or stock rear support bar] the 12ga ground is not needed. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good stuff, I'll check it out when I install my amp and sub this weekend. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the situation but when I had this deck installed in my previous vehicle I literally melted my crossovers on my Phoenix Gold xenon 6.5 components. This was during a 3-day trip from Phoenix to Milwaukee My gain was set pretty conservitavely on the amp I was running to the 6.5's. (old school MTX RT2200x) I will be using this same amp to run my 10" kicker CVR sub in the civic. I'll probably just leave the speakers running off the head unit unless I feel that the 6.5" pioneer 3 ways aren't keeping up. Thanks for your input, feel free to add anything else I may be overlooking.

:EDIT: If I were to have mixed up a +/- on the speaker wires during installation would this be a possible cause to the problem? I remember having a hard time figuring out what the negative and positive wires actually looked like off the harness but was pretty confident I got them right.


Modified by BAZ at 11:33 PM 8/21/2008

 

Switching a pos.(+) and neg.(-) lead to a speaker would not cause the overheating, it would put the speakers out of phase resulting in poor SQ, little or no bass response.

It does not matter which way you wire the speakers, [pos.(+) and neg.(-)] as long as all the speakers are wired the same way.

The output from an amp is AC, that changes to DC when the amp clips, [distorts/square waves] DC output produces heat, the same way your cars cigarette lighter heats up, a clipping amp is probably what "melted" your x-overs, or serious and constant overpowering of the speaker system. 94