Hey all I need some help.

I am installing an SQ system in my teg, and I'm trying to figure out how to lay out my speakers for best imaging and staging. The speakers I am considering are:

Focal K2P's
Focal Utopia 165W's
Dynaudio 240 Mk II's
AVI BSM's

Possibly others...

Anyway, I was wondering if I could get some advice from ppl who have installed SQ systems in their Integra or similar (Civic or something), ppl that have competed, etc. Is installing the mid in the door a problem for imaging / staging? If I install in a kick, I will not have enough airspace for a 6.5" driver....

Def. could use some assistance.

Thanks

-D

 

why limit yourself to a two way set? My horns image very well for just a two way set (mids in doors).

What's your budget, power, processing, source, etc?

The good thing is that it's pretty hard to make honda's/acuras (especially civics) sound bad...

 

Processing may vary, budget is about $600, power will be determined by the speakers I am building around the speakers, but ARC will be the amp(s) I will have. I was looking at 2 way as I believe I would be better off buying an awesome 2 way set than a decent 3 way set. Invest more money in better 2 ways.

I have also been looking at Seas Lotus Reference.

-D

 

You are interested in Seas Lotus, have you seen this group buy yet?

http://www.goldenearmafia.com/...rt=15

 

Wrong link try this one:

http://www.goldenearmafia.com/...t=104

 

Yep. That's the GB I was thinking about.

Not sure about the Seas off axis response though, I've heard that it isn't that good.

-D

 

aiming a 6.5" midbass for imaging is going to be pretty difficult. especially in an initegra. i have done a few things in the past with fiberglassing and the speaker cover. i built one for evol for his focal 165k2p. basically wut i did was make a new fiberflass mount for the 6.5 so it would protrude out of the door panel. the result is better mid and midbass response and better sound staging.

EVOL is selling them, he decided to go turbo, so he is selling his system. if u'd like, u can talk to him about the price for them. and ill post the pics of them this weekend.

here is a link to a picture of my car. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=755837

 

My friend went with utopia 165W in his car and bi-amp them. It was a bitch to run the extra wires in for that but it made a huge difference in the SQ. He is also running a Diamond Audio TDX-12 for a sub and 2 micro-dimensions amps (I think they are the pro 10.4x and the pro 2K.1). It sounds really good. Oh.. he also has a cdx-c90 and the digital eq and crossover from audio control (can't remember model numbers). He went really budget on the install though. He just cut holes in the door panels and mounted the tweets. It could be done a lot better if he put them in the pannel that goes behind the side miroors.

For installing 6.5 in the doors, I think you have to cut a little bit depending on the basket size and what not. I konw in my civic I had to trim the inner area to get the utopia's to fit.

 

The problem will always be with mids in the doors is that the pathlengths will be so far off for the midrange, it will be tough to get them to image and stage properly.

I'd consider the DLS Iridiums 6.3 - put the midbass in the door, the dome off axis in the kicks and the tweeter up in the a-pillar. The only problem with that setup is that you need to go active and you need to have a good 4-way crossover, something like a P9 or a H700

 

Thanks for the replies.

I will be making a custom fiberglass mount on the door panel for the 6.5's for sure. The question is whether I will need to buy a 4" mid as well to get optimal sound, and if so, what component set could I get that would easily allow this addon. I like the Focal's, but they don't seem to sell a lot of their mid size woofers separately which bites big time. Looks like I could integrate Dynaudios fairly easily maybe. I think the Seas GB is ending today, so I may be SOL there. I'm not rushing my purchase just to save a few hundred bucks.

FYI, I have the following electronics:

Clarion DXZ715 head unit
Clarion DPH910 DSP
Clarion CDC655Tz CD changer
Clarion BCX100 bass enhancer (used to use for the subsonic filter)
CENet cables
Fiber optic cables
3' Stinger Bullet RCA cables

I am thinking of selling all of these to get the Eclipse 8454 (?) or the Alpine 9835, as I would love to have a system that was all in one, processing and everything done from the deck.

rcurley: Why would I need a 4 way crossover? Don't you mean 3 way?

ATF Kuk: I may be interested in the K2P's... send me some pics, I'll PM EVOL and see what he wants for them.

-D

 

No, 4 way.

If you want an all active, 3 way, front stage - then you need a 4 way crossover. I think what you are considering is placing the mid+tweet on one channel using a passive crossover. That works out great too.

Rather then trying to find a 6.5" set then add a mid - get the mid + tweet in a set with supplied passive - then go all active on the midbass. What you will find is that you have plenty more choices that way - again IMO.

The 8443 or 8053 have been replaced this year - I wouldn't hesitate to go with either for an all in one solution. Either would work very well where you needed a 3 way crossover.

I really don't see any reason to custom mount the 6 w/fiberglass other then for looks if you run a three way front stage. I personally don't think it will get you much of anythign when you look at the work it will require.

 

Hmm... thats not a bad idea... get say a 4" or 5 1/4" and tweet and then get say a 6.5 or 7" midbass. This is starting to get expensive

So I would, say with 4 channels of amp power, use a low pass crossover for the midbass (playing range X < 200 Hz or whatever), and then a high pass for the 4" / tweet component (playing anything above X).

In addition, I could use the deck or the DSP x-over to ensure the midbass doesn't play too low while using the amp x-over to cut off high frequencies (so 60 < X < 200), and then use the deck / DSP / amp x-over to cut off the low frequencies the midbass plays, and let the midrange take care of anything above (> 200), approximately.

Does that make sense? Is an active / passive setup a good way to configure a system?

Thanks for the help!

-D

 

You should consider the new Pioneer DEH-P8600 too... it's got a 13 band EQ that's very usable, and it's got that AutoEQ that the DEQ-P9200 had that lets you plug in a mic to the head unit, position it on the drivers side head rest, get out of the car, and let the system tune itself. Then you can get in and fine tune it however you want. The new 8600 is sweet... it's like the DEQ-P9200 and the DEH-P940 Premier wrapped up into one package. They'll also let you delay signals to each channel to get the imaging right if you've got one speaker mounted a lot further away from you than the other (e.g. tweeters and mids in the door panels). The preout voltage is pretty high and it's got 3 sets. Awesome deck for the $.

I think Savinglots.com has them for $350 right now with like $15 S&H. I wish I would have known that before I went to Circuit City and dropped $500 on mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Diabolik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm... thats not a bad idea... get say a 4" or 5 1/4" and tweet and then get say a 6.5 or 7" midbass. This is starting to get expensive

So I would, say with 4 channels of amp power, use a low pass crossover for the midbass (playing range X &lt; 200 Hz or whatever), and then a high pass for the 4" / tweet component (playing anything above X).

In addition, I could use the deck or the DSP x-over to ensure the midbass doesn't play too low while using the amp x-over to cut off high frequencies (so 60 &lt; X &lt; 200), and then use the deck / DSP / amp x-over to cut off the low frequencies the midbass plays, and let the midrange take care of anything above (&gt; 200), approximately.

Does that make sense? Is an active / passive setup a good way to configure a system?

Thanks for the help!

-D</TD></TR></TABLE>

That all makes sense....I'm not familiar at all with your particular head/dsp.

Here's what I would consider:
5.25" comp set passively crossed at 150 or 200 Hz and up in kicks.
6.5-8" midbass (what ever you like/can fit) going from around 150Hz to 70 or 60Hz
12" sub picking up the rest.

If you really like Arc Audio, do a 4150 to the front stage and a 2100 to the sub.

have the Eclipse headunit do all of the crossing over, and defeat the x-overs on the amps. The eclipse has enough eq and crossover to run that system, and it's all in the digital domain, all in one unit.

That's what I would do if I wanted conventionals and only 3 channels of crossover...

 

actually, im buying the k2p's off of him, but the fiberglass pods for the doorpanel are being sold.

here are the pics, bad quality because it was with my phone and it was also at night

 

Yeah, he told me.... you bastard. $300 is an awesome deal if the speakers are in great condition.

I'd fabricate my own panels though... I am big on DIY.

-D

 

yea, actually, he bought the speakers from me. from my shop actually. now im buying them back.

 

Anyone with pictures of their subs?