speaker and amp replacements.
currently I have 2 alpine type r 12's and a jl audio 500 watt mono block. looking to switch to 1 mono per sub and a 3 or 4 channel for my doors.
questions:
got any suggestions for good mono blocks? I'm looking to hopefully stay with alpine.
these subs max at I think, 500 watts. When looking for amps, what power ratings and such do I look for? as in rms, peak power, ohms, etc.
ported, sealed or bandpass
is there hardware that you hook all 8 wires up to and then 2 come off the, hardware, and to your amp and maybe, makes it a certain ohm at the amp no matter how they are wired at the sub?
thanks
questions:
got any suggestions for good mono blocks? I'm looking to hopefully stay with alpine.
these subs max at I think, 500 watts. When looking for amps, what power ratings and such do I look for? as in rms, peak power, ohms, etc.
ported, sealed or bandpass
is there hardware that you hook all 8 wires up to and then 2 come off the, hardware, and to your amp and maybe, makes it a certain ohm at the amp no matter how they are wired at the sub?
thanks
Exactly what model Type R 12" do you have?
Why not just get another JL Audio 500/1, it is a very good amp.
Also, you do know if you run each sub of it's own amp the subs will have to be in their own enclosure, so if you want to up the wattage, why not just get a 1000W amp, sub bass always works better in mono with subs "coupled" together
You always look at RMS into 4 ohms for amps and continuous power handling for speakers.
Peak power is meaningless.
There is a truism in car audio, "your far better off being over-powered then being under powered"
So a 75W amp is far better to run a 50W speaker then a 25W amp, [even a 50W amp] is.
Speakers, [subs] must be wired properly to attain proper impedance, installing something, [impedance compensator] just adds resistance, the last thing you want.
Why not just get another JL Audio 500/1, it is a very good amp.
Also, you do know if you run each sub of it's own amp the subs will have to be in their own enclosure, so if you want to up the wattage, why not just get a 1000W amp, sub bass always works better in mono with subs "coupled" together
You always look at RMS into 4 ohms for amps and continuous power handling for speakers.
Peak power is meaningless.
There is a truism in car audio, "your far better off being over-powered then being under powered"
So a 75W amp is far better to run a 50W speaker then a 25W amp, [even a 50W amp] is.
Speakers, [subs] must be wired properly to attain proper impedance, installing something, [impedance compensator] just adds resistance, the last thing you want.
ive got the 4 ohm versions..the 1242D. I have them wired for 2 ohm now.
so your saying to just get a 1000 watt mono and run them off of that?
why do i have to have each sub in its own box if i get one amp per sub?
also..i only have the 1st version of the 500/1 and its dead...and so is my 1200 watt sony..lol
gonna order my stuff of of crutchfield this week. gonna try to get some door speakers as well and hopefully a 4 channel for the door speakers that deaspertly need an upgrade..lol
edit: I look for the RMS of 4 ohms or 2 ohms?
Edirt 2: I'd like to get some alpine amp(s) or a bigger JL amp.
so your saying to just get a 1000 watt mono and run them off of that?
why do i have to have each sub in its own box if i get one amp per sub?
also..i only have the 1st version of the 500/1 and its dead...and so is my 1200 watt sony..lol
gonna order my stuff of of crutchfield this week. gonna try to get some door speakers as well and hopefully a 4 channel for the door speakers that deaspertly need an upgrade..lol
edit: I look for the RMS of 4 ohms or 2 ohms?
Edirt 2: I'd like to get some alpine amp(s) or a bigger JL amp.
if you have two(2) SWR-1242D subs you have them wired to 16 ohms, 4 ohms or 1 ohm, you can not wire two DVC 4 ohm speakers to 2 ohms.
If you are blowing up amps driving them , my guess is you have them wired to 1 ohm.
Rewire them to 4 ohms, wire VCs in series, [for an 8 ohm load] then the speakers in parallel, [for a 4 ohm load]
Look for an amp that is at least 1000W RMS into a 4 ohm load, the JL Audio HD1200/1 is the only thing JL Audio has right now, unless you can find the older 1000/1 amp.
You do not need a 4ch amp for just the front speakers. 94
If you are blowing up amps driving them , my guess is you have them wired to 1 ohm.
Rewire them to 4 ohms, wire VCs in series, [for an 8 ohm load] then the speakers in parallel, [for a 4 ohm load]
Look for an amp that is at least 1000W RMS into a 4 ohm load, the JL Audio HD1200/1 is the only thing JL Audio has right now, unless you can find the older 1000/1 amp.
You do not need a 4ch amp for just the front speakers. 94
if you have two(2) SWR-1242D subs you have them wired to 16 ohms, 4 ohms or 1 ohm, you can not wire two DVC 4 ohm speakers to 2 ohms.
If you are blowing up amps driving them , my guess is you have them wired to 1 ohm.
Rewire them to 4 ohms, wire VCs in series, [for an 8 ohm load] then the speakers in parallel, [for a 4 ohm load]
Look for an amp that is at least 1000W RMS into a 4 ohm load, the JL Audio HD1200/1 is the only thing JL Audio has right now, unless you can find the older 1000/1 amp.
You do not need a 4ch amp for just the front speakers. 94
If you are blowing up amps driving them , my guess is you have them wired to 1 ohm.
Rewire them to 4 ohms, wire VCs in series, [for an 8 ohm load] then the speakers in parallel, [for a 4 ohm load]
Look for an amp that is at least 1000W RMS into a 4 ohm load, the JL Audio HD1200/1 is the only thing JL Audio has right now, unless you can find the older 1000/1 amp.
You do not need a 4ch amp for just the front speakers. 94
and i was gonna run a 4 channel for my 2 front doors, my rears and my tweets.
edit: wife isnt letting me buy anything used anymore so i have to find the amps new..lol.
edit 2: used this for the wiring http://www.kicker.com/dvc_wiring ..used the one for 2 subs, vc in series and speakers in parallel. at work right now so ill try it when i get off.
Last edited by dseriesboulder; Mar 4, 2013 at 07:39 AM.
couldnt get any of my amps to work so i picked up a 300 watt mtx amp for 15$. since its a 2 channel amp, do i still have the speakers wired the same and have theme have there own 2 wires to the amp?
Edit: and i mean, each speaker would have a positive and a negative. the amp is bridgeable.
Edit: and i mean, each speaker would have a positive and a negative. the amp is bridgeable.
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its an MTX Blue Thunder PRO150x2
The bottom of the amp says its peak at 425 into 4 ohms. 300 watt RMS bridged at 4 ohms.
Edit: This amp
http://archive.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/pro150x2.cfm
Edit: Just to clarify, I tie the negative from each speaker together as well as the positive and hook those up to the bridged option on my amp. the neg and pos terminal, correct?
And this amp is just to get me by. working on getting another jl or a 1000 watt kicker mono.
The bottom of the amp says its peak at 425 into 4 ohms. 300 watt RMS bridged at 4 ohms.
Edit: This amp
http://archive.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/pro150x2.cfm
Edit: Just to clarify, I tie the negative from each speaker together as well as the positive and hook those up to the bridged option on my amp. the neg and pos terminal, correct?
And this amp is just to get me by. working on getting another jl or a 1000 watt kicker mono.
just hooked the amp up. had to fiddle with the settings but it sounds nice. need a bigger amp tho..lol. Wish my jl didnt take a crap on my day..lol
im looking for a 1k jl mono or audiobahn. might go kicker if i can get this one of cl for a decent price.
Thanks for the help man.
Edit: Anyone know a good amp repair place? Dont mind if i have to send it off but Denver metro would be awesome.
im looking for a 1k jl mono or audiobahn. might go kicker if i can get this one of cl for a decent price.
Thanks for the help man.
Edit: Anyone know a good amp repair place? Dont mind if i have to send it off but Denver metro would be awesome.
Got my JL amp going the other day. The signal sensing was switched to on. Read a youtube comment about it. Guy had the same issue, switched it to off and it worked. Hooked it up, switched it off, works like a charm.
Can I use a normal stripped screw puller on the amp bolts? My remote is stripped and so are most of my speaker hookups. Any ideas?
Can I use a normal stripped screw puller on the amp bolts? My remote is stripped and so are most of my speaker hookups. Any ideas?
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