I had the door panels off on my del sol the other day. The speakers are SHOT. Any ideas of a good coaxial system that won't need an amp? I just need it to sound decent and have some bass.

 

Try Kicker DS 60. They run about 60-70 bucks and sound pretty good...even without an amp. They will also fit in the doors without issues.

 

I was looking at those, they look pretty legit. There is a crappy sony stereo in the car as well with a bunch of problems, I was thinking of going back to the stock stereo so I wouldn't have to deal with the trim that goes around another aftermarket system not fitting, etc, but I'm not sure what it's power rating is...

 

Wattage, [power rating] is very low on stock HUs, your DelSol has a standard Din opening, just about any aftermarket HU will fit, only problem will be with HUs with ***** that stick out, [door will not close unless faceplate is removed] so it is just a matter of picking a HU that does not have ***** that stick out, [too far].

As for speakers, I would look at Infinity speakers, good speakers at a pretty good price. 94

 

Seconded. Infinity reference line is pretty good for the money, they work well with low power.

 

Im reading they are both great, what ones would have a tighter, more noticeable bass?

 

Personally I think they will likely be about the same if your doors are not sealed.

 

Geman Meastro
http://www.german-maestro.de/US/strada.htm

 

Any alternatives to the dynamat? It's way expensive.

 

Check out your local roofing supply stores, [hardware supply stores] for roofing membrane, [looks a lot like Dynamat] on 3-4 foot wide rolls, use a little Dynamat on the inside of the doors outside skin, then use the membrane material in place of the plastic vapor barrier.

A little smelly when putting it on, but works great for sealing the doors.

A much bigger difference in SQ/SPL and bass responce can be had by replacing the stock plastic speaker housings with custom MDF housings, [speaker mounting plates].

Speaker performance is directly related to speaker installation, you need...

1- An absolutely airtight seal between front and back of speaker.
2- An absolutely flat mounting surface.
3- Mass, the more mass the better, and if that mass is wood, even better.

An airtight seal prevents the speakers back wave, [sound coming off the back of the speaker] from interfering with front wave, [the sound coming off the front of the speaker] eliminating/preventing "cancellation".

The flat surface prevents VC misalignment, any misalignment will affect performance, enough misalignment will damage the VC and/or VC former.

The mass prevents cancellation due to speaker movement, "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" if the speaker moves backwards when the speaker cone moves forwards, [or forwards when cone moves backwards] you get cancellation, most effected is SPL and bass response.

The wood is just because a speaker mounted to wood will sound better then the same speaker mounted to just about anything else, definatly better then sheet metal or the plastic of the OEM speaker housing.

 

Rather than buying stinky roofing supplies, I suggest audio technix. No smell whatsoever and works excellent, almost as well as dynamat extreme and 10x better than fatmat garbage and peel n' stick. It's about 2$/sqft, which is very cheap. Check it out:
http://downsouthbassproductions.com/...hk=1&Itemid=68

 

How would I achieve this airtight seal and flat surface?

 

I recommend getting a new headunit with 50x4 Watt.

Got my self an alpine sps600. And they sound awesome.

 

Deadener and a MDF bafflee

 

Well it will not be airtight, but if you use a single sheet of Dynamat, or something like it, you would cover all holes on the doors inside skin, [small openings would have to be made where inside door latch and lock linkage must come through.
There is also the long opening at the top of door body for the window and drain holes in the bottom of the door, [that you do not want to plug] so, no not airtight, but much better then stock, the heavy brutal vapor barrier will not "flap in the breeze" like the stock vapour barrier because it is so much heavier and even less so because it has been "laminated" to the inside door skin.

The custom MDF speaker housings you make would have a flat face for mounting the speaker, with a mounting hole that was cut with a router, so it is exactly the right size for the speaker and perfectly round, [better airtight seal].94

 

Im going to go ahead and double sound deaden my doors, and ill put one of those pieces where the vapor shield currently is. when I get the speakers in i'll also create a seal between the front and back of the speaker, either with the sound deadener or with some modeling clay of some sort. I am thinking the ds60's are my best bet. I heard some Polk's that were really nice, but when I looked them up on crutchfield they do not fit. I also really like the Alpine type r's, but I am also reading they will not fit. Any ideas on how to fit the Alpines? I'll pay the extra money for them if I can get them in there.