I'm getting a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP. I want to set up a component system with no subs, but I'm clueless as to what a good setup would be. My car has factory tweeters in the door and 6.5" speakers in the door and 5.25" in the rear deck. Can somebody please guide me to a good setup that I can get pretty cheap on ebay. I don't know anything about the crossovers and what frequencies (except the highs, duh) should go where in the car. TYIA

 

Look for a company named CDT on eaby they make an amazing product. You can get a varity of sizes of speaker. Also if you want to put a bigger speaker in your rear deck it is very easy to make a 6.5 fit in a smaller hole.

 

Just replace the stocks with a better set of component speakers. HINT: DO NOT SPEND LESS THEN $150 ON COMPONENT SETS!!!

 

This looks like a good one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIAMOND-AU...wItem

 

Watch out for what you buy on ebay,. The prices may be cheap and looks like a good deal. But once something goes wrong your s.o.l. If I were you go to your local car audio shop and grab yourself a set of speakers with a warrenty. So if something goes wrong you won't be out of cash and have a big headaches

 

What should I do about the actual speaker layout? What would sound best? I was thinking the components up front with 4-ways in the rear. But like I said, I'm clueless.

 

Just replace the stock ones and put the new ones where the stock ones were.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omega02379 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just replace the stock ones and put the new ones where the stock ones were.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not that simple. It has to sound good. A component system comes with a set of tweeters and mid range woofers, which would be put up front with the highs going to the tweeters and the mids going to the woofers. I'm trying to figure out how to get the "fullest" sound. Would this be good with 4 way full range sound in the rear deck?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimmyAtlantis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's not that simple. It has to sound good. A component system comes with a set of tweeters and mid range woofers, which would be put up front with the highs going to the tweeters and the mids going to the woofers. I'm trying to figure out how to get the "fullest" sound. Would this be good with 4 way full range sound in the rear deck?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK NOOB! Listen , I know what a friggin component set is. If your gonna be **** , get a set of friggin kick panels. ***** the back speakers! They are only meant for rear fill. If anything they should get less wattage and be on a time delay.


Thanks for playing! Here is your consolation prize!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omega02379 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for playing! Here is your consolation prize!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Christ! I already told you I'm clueless. I want the fill in the rear. How would my sound be full without that? Besides, I have a baby that sits back there and has to hear Mary had a Little Lamb. But it sounds like you're saying I'll get enough sound from just the front. Now that you know I WANT rears along with the components in the front, what would be good for the rear?

 

Just get some coaxials for the back. If your not competing don't get crazy. Companies that make components usually have matching coaxials to go along with them.

Give me a budget , and I will point you in a direction.

 

Don't front... You want to hear Mary had a little lamb, too.. J/p

I think Omega is from the old school and in that respect he's right. You don't need rear speakers, and in a competition system, they can throw your soundstage/imaging off.

But if you're not building a comp system, then by all means. Put the 4 ways in the back.

However, the difference between 3-way and 4-way isn't that noticeable... And sometimes that "supertweeter" can be a little overpowering... It depends on the brand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

However, the difference between 3-way and 4-way isn't that noticeable... And sometimes that "supertweeter" can be a little overpowering... It depends on the brand.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I havn't seen a set of "4 ways" since the "Urban" days

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't front... You want to hear Mary had a little lamb, too.. J/p</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd rather hear the wheels on the bus...what of it?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">However, the difference between 3-way and 4-way isn't that noticeable... And sometimes that "supertweeter" can be a little overpowering... It depends on the brand. </TD></TR></TABLE>

And with the tweeters in the front it might be a BIT MORE overpowering? I don't want that.

This is definately not for competition. I just want a nice crisp, clean, full sound for my driving pleasure.

 

These up front in original locations. . . . . http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=127

And these out back . . . . .http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=126

 

What is an EJ1, not being an A/H I just don't know.

Also need some more info....
1- What kind of budget are you looking at?
2- Are you doing the install yourself, if so, are you confident that you can do a good job?
3- When you say "system" do you mean a HU, [your Pioneer DEH-P4800MP] and speakers, and amps and sub/s?.

With that Pioneer you have make a pretty good start, [the Hu is a very important part of a system, it is the source so it is going to have a lot to do with how the system ends up sounding].
The kind of speakers you get will depend on if you are going to use amps or not and in some ways if you are going to have a sub or not.
You can definatly end up with a good sounding system without amps and subs.

If the "EJ1", [if thats the car we are talking about] has a stock system in it now, [HU and speakers] install the Pioneer HU and see what you think of the sound, the limiting factor in an oem system is the HU, and yes you can improve on the oem speakers, but not with the kind of results you get when you replace the HU, take my word for it, over the years I have installed 100s if not 1000s of "upgraded", aftermarket speakers to oem HUs, [because thats what the customers wanted] only to have the customer disappointed, [I always explain that they may not be impressed before I do the install] on the other hand I have installed 1000s of aftermarket HUs with the stock speakers and have yet to have a customer that was not at least surprised at the sound of their oem speakers by just changing the HU, and more then a few did not replace their oem speakers until something went wrong with them. 94

 

fcm: an EJ1 is a 94 Civic EX coupe. Yes I am confident in doing a good job. I'm a slow, precise worker. OCD if you will. Any of the other questions you had have been answered in this thread. I honestly think I'm going to go with what Omega suggested, except 5.25" in the rear instead of 6.5". How hard is it to get a 6.5" back there anyway?

 

Here's my setup as an example. I had the same goals as you. Reasonable budget, clean sound.

Alpine 60Wx4 deck (if I were to do this today, I would get an Eclipse)
JL Audio components 5.25 mids in door, tweeters in the side mirrors, crossovers mounted just inside the doors under the dash
Infinity Basslink II sub/amp combo (this is all the rear "fill" you need to feel immersed in the music.)
decent speaker wire where appropriate

The brats in the backseat can hear just fine.

You could alternatively get a lower powered deck, and a 2 channel amp for the front components.

In the near future I'm getting Q forms for the kickpanels.

 

If your gonna do componets i would invest in some dynamat.

 

OK, 94 Civic, according to this.... http://www.mjmautoinnovations.com/honda.htm you should have 6.5" speakers front and back, but I know some US models have had diff. sized speakers in them, but I have never done a 94 Civic that did not have "standard" 6.5" speakers in both the front and rear, it is very easy to tell by far most 5.25" speakers use a 4 screw mounting system, like this http://www.pioneerelectronics.....html
A "standard" 6.5" speaker, [what you have in front and maybe in the back also] use a 3 screw mounting system, like this, [although this one is a universal]
http://www.pioneerelectronics.....html see the 7 holes in the black ring, 3 of them will fit the stock speaker mounting holes in the doors speaker mounts, and should fit the ones in the back also, the other 2 holes are for Ford door speakers, [also standard 6.5"] the 4 "tabs" on the outside fit the "oversized" 6.5" speakers locations and are a 4 screw mount system, like these
http://www.pioneerelectronics.....html

Although cone size is diff. on all three, the big diff is "mounting" hole size, on the "oversized" 6.5" it is a 5.5" hole, on the "standard" 6.5" it is a 5" hole and on the 5.25" it is a 4.75" hole, depending on brand the mounting hole can be +/- 1/16" or so, the same is true for component speakers.

Now as I said before, install the HU right away, you can add speakers anytime, there will be no extra work, as it sounds like your not going to install any amps.

Because you are not going to use off-board amps, you will need to find component speakers for the front that are very efficient, your 4x50W Pioneer is 4x22W rms or "continuous" so installing speakers that can handle 75-100 watts continuous or more would be pointless EG; http://www.eclipse-web.com/component/sc8264.html
this would be a better bet http://www.pioneerelectronics.....html or just get a set of 6.5" 2ways for the front same with the back, whatever fits back there.

The install of the speakers is very important, obviously speakers that fit will be easier to install, but if you want the best possible sound out of whatever speakers you get, first go for the bigger driver, it will mean a custom install, but a speaker will sound better mounted to wood then the same speaker mounted to plastic.

A custom MDF speaker housing to replace the stock plastic speaker housing will allow you to install the over-sized 6.5" speaker, MDF being wood, will get you the best sound out of the speaker, [and thats true for any speaker you use, including the stock speakers] a little Dynamat, [or the like] can greatly improve SQ, [even a 1 sq.ft. piece in each door], as you are only running 22W to the speakers you can use the stock speaker wire, the only custom wiring you will need to do, is the HUs constant power, [yellow] do not use the stock radio harnesses constant power, [white/blue] [yellow if you are using a wire harness adpt.] run a fused 12ga or 10ga power wire from batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs yellow to it, just like you would an off-board amp. this is the harness you will need http://www.the12volt.com/wirei...=Kits it keeps things clean.

For rear speakers I would get 2ways that fit, use some Dynamat, and I would disable the tweeters.

I have an Alpine HU driving 4 Eclipse 6.5" 2ways, [Eclipses entry level 6.5" 2way speaker, almost 10 years old now] custom MDF speaker housings up front and extensive Dynamating, custom MDF and fiberglass cabinets in the rear, with some Dynamating, tweeters disabled on the rear, all 4 speakers are in the stock locations, behind stock grills, using stock speaker wire, [except a little 16ga inside the rear cabinets] in my 94 Teg LS, I have no off-board amps or subs, SQ is very good.

One more thing, whatever you decide to get and from where, buy only from authorized dealers so you get manufacturer's warranty, it may cost a few $$$ more but well worth it, now is a good time to buy at your local retail outlet, last years models are being blown out the doors. 94

 

i've only read bits and pieces of this thread but if you're as **** a or OCD as you say you are then you're going to want to run a 3way component set up front thats tri-amped with active crossovers. midbass drivers in the doors, mids and tweets in a set of custom glass kicks. forget about rear speakers. regardless of whether you think you want them or not, i'm telling you you dont rear fill. The only frequency range that should be coming from behind you should be 20-40 or 50hz. The better the response of the midbass drivers, the happier you'll be with the sound.

btw...4ways are stupid. waay too many crossover points especially for the cheap little crossovers they come with.

 

How do you disable tweeters on two way speakers?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you disable tweeters on two way speakers?</TD></TR></TABLE> Piece-R-Cake, cut the tinsel leads running to the tweeter. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Piece-R-Cake, cut the tinsel leads running to the tweeter. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's with the . . . . . . 94 , all the time?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omega02379 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What's with the . . . . . . 94 , all the time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It gets attached to every post just like "i have an alpine HU and eclipse 6.5 2ways etc......."