Security Concerns
Hello all. I am kind of new to building vehicles. But I was concerned about security before I go building up my vehicles any further. I bought the 92-95 hatch I have as is, and would like to add security to it. It currently has a viper alarm, what else could I do to increase security? I want to go with the quick release wheels, but am unsure all what parts I need to do this, as well as how I go about doing this. Can anyone recommend anything else, and can anyone inform me of what parts I would need in order to complete the wheel conversion, what brands are the best, and how I go about doing this myself? Or can anyone direct me to where I would need to look to do this? Thanks in advance!
Try this site http://www.getnrg.com/ for your steering wheel and I believe there is a sticky on top with good info on other accessories for your alarm.
Single best thing you can do for security is add a hidden kill switch or two.
As for the removable steering wheel, if the only reason your doing it is for security, forget it, it is more of an inconvenience for you then it is for a crook. 94
As for the removable steering wheel, if the only reason your doing it is for security, forget it, it is more of an inconvenience for you then it is for a crook. 94

There is some ways of preventing theft but since its been disussed so many times i wouldn't doubt that most thieves know what to look for. I know you've heard it many times but if they want it they'll get it.
I dont agree with your post. I have a removable steering with a hub lock. The only way your driving my car is from that lock which is going be damn hard to turn. If you dont have the lock then yea all the crock needs is another wheel. I think its great compared to a kill switch which has been discussed mulitple times and everyone and crock knows all the hiding spots.
There is some ways of preventing theft but since its been disussed so many times i wouldn't doubt that most thieves know what to look for. I know you've heard it many times but if they want it they'll get it.

There is some ways of preventing theft but since its been disussed so many times i wouldn't doubt that most thieves know what to look for. I know you've heard it many times but if they want it they'll get it.
Your right. most crooks will know where "common" kill switch hiding spots are but definitely not where all of them are.
The diff. is they will know exactly where your wheel lock is, they don't have to look for it, on the other hand they would still have to look for a kill switch even if installed in a "common" spot and that takes time.
I will bet you my 94LS that you can't find the two kill "switches" I have installed, one a simple SPDT switch the other a passive "arming" latching relay.
Five me 15sec. and I will get by your locking steering.

The best security for a car is something that slows the thief down, the longer it takes him to beat/bypass a security "device" the better, so you choose, 15sec. to get by your steering lock or even just 1min. of looking to find a kill switch, 15min. for a well hidden one or to bypass the kill switch.
Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with another layer of security, [removable steering wheel] but it is easily beaten/bypassed so it is not something I would install on my car as a deterrent, it would be more of an inconvenience then a deterrent, I mean what the hell do you do with the steering wheel, it's no like you can stuff it into your back pocket or something.
So yea, you can disagree, but then again so can I, and I have been doing car security for a very long time and I have a pretty good idea of what will work and what will not.
As for, "I know you've heard it many times but if they want it they'll get it."
That is a defeatist attitude and means nothing, that's like saying if you step off the curb you will get hit by a bus, yea maybe, if there's a bus comming and you don't look both ways and you step off the curb just before the bus gets to you and you ignore the bus horn and walk into it's path when it swerves to miss you and then turn and run into it if it manages to stop before hitting you.
There is a world of diff. between the car sitting idling, [keys in it, doors unlocked] and one that has layers of security in it. 94
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here you go buddy!
https://honda-tech.com/forums/audio-security-video-27/%5Bhow-%5D-car-security-1794938/
I actually folloed these directions just about exactly and it was easy as pie. (im talking about for the fuel kill switch).. If you have any questions about the basic install of the fuel pump kill switch feel free to pm me and ill try to point you in the right direction.
but im not expert like some of the others.. =/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/audio-security-video-27/%5Bhow-%5D-car-security-1794938/
I actually folloed these directions just about exactly and it was easy as pie. (im talking about for the fuel kill switch).. If you have any questions about the basic install of the fuel pump kill switch feel free to pm me and ill try to point you in the right direction.
but im not expert like some of the others.. =/
What you need will depend on what circuit you want to "kill", the current load, [current/power used] determines the size of the switch and by size I mean it's capacity. [measured in amps].
In the linked, "[HOW-TO:] Car Security" a relay is used as the "kill" switch, it's capacity is 20-30 amps, [depending on the relay used] the fuel pump power lead is a 15-20 amp circuit, [depending on model] so a kill switch needs to be "big" enough to handle the current, the toggle switch that controls the relay can be very small, no more then 1A, [1 amp] as the relay's coil, [load] draws less the 250mA, [1/4 amp].
You can also cut power to the fuel pump a few other ways, a couple that do not require the relay, just the small 1A on/off switch.
You can install the switch on the ground for the PGM-FI Main Relay, [injector relays coil ground], it is a low current ground, [less then 250mA] so a small, easley hidden, 1A switch can be used, it will cut power to the fuel injectors, fuel pump, ECU/ECM and a few engine sensor/valves.
You can install the switch on the ECU/ECM control lead to the fuel pump relay, also a low current ground requiring only the small switch.
I have a passive arming, [latching relay] "kill" switch on that lead with a phantom switch to latch the relay each time I want to start the car, I also have a hidden switch on the ground to the injector relays coil, kind of redundant but it will take a crook some time to figure it out.
There are many ways to do "kill" switches, even the one linked can be "beefed up" to be even more effective by adding a ground input to the relay, [must be a SPDT relay] pin #87a, so when relay is not on, a ground is supplied to the fuel pump, if crook tries to supply power directly to the pumps power lead at the pump to get past the "kill" switch, [very easy to do on Honda/Acura] it will make him jump as it would be a dead short.
Pick what you want to "kill"/disable and I will tell you what you need and how to do it. 94
In the linked, "[HOW-TO:] Car Security" a relay is used as the "kill" switch, it's capacity is 20-30 amps, [depending on the relay used] the fuel pump power lead is a 15-20 amp circuit, [depending on model] so a kill switch needs to be "big" enough to handle the current, the toggle switch that controls the relay can be very small, no more then 1A, [1 amp] as the relay's coil, [load] draws less the 250mA, [1/4 amp].
You can also cut power to the fuel pump a few other ways, a couple that do not require the relay, just the small 1A on/off switch.
You can install the switch on the ground for the PGM-FI Main Relay, [injector relays coil ground], it is a low current ground, [less then 250mA] so a small, easley hidden, 1A switch can be used, it will cut power to the fuel injectors, fuel pump, ECU/ECM and a few engine sensor/valves.
You can install the switch on the ECU/ECM control lead to the fuel pump relay, also a low current ground requiring only the small switch.
I have a passive arming, [latching relay] "kill" switch on that lead with a phantom switch to latch the relay each time I want to start the car, I also have a hidden switch on the ground to the injector relays coil, kind of redundant but it will take a crook some time to figure it out.
There are many ways to do "kill" switches, even the one linked can be "beefed up" to be even more effective by adding a ground input to the relay, [must be a SPDT relay] pin #87a, so when relay is not on, a ground is supplied to the fuel pump, if crook tries to supply power directly to the pumps power lead at the pump to get past the "kill" switch, [very easy to do on Honda/Acura] it will make him jump as it would be a dead short.
Pick what you want to "kill"/disable and I will tell you what you need and how to do it. 94
steering wheel is a momo.
To add about the kill switch and for the guys above. I dont have one because what happens when your in a rural area and all of sudden your switch has a sort and your stranded? Just my two cents.
To add about the kill switch and for the guys above. I dont have one because what happens when your in a rural area and all of sudden your switch has a sort and your stranded? Just my two cents.
ROFL, guess you should do a better job of installing the switch, also a switch installed on a ground lead can't "short out". 94
Not to be rude but have no idea what ROFL means. On another note **** breaks, I mean sony said that there PS3 hardly ever has problems but yet I'm on my third one in less then two years.
You can use a relay to wire the kill mechanism so that the car still runs if it fails.
Alternatively, if a switch does fail in the middle of nowhere, go find the switch and twist the two wire leads together and tape it so you can get home.
Alternatively, if a switch does fail in the middle of nowhere, go find the switch and twist the two wire leads together and tape it so you can get home.
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