radio quit working???
There are two fuses you need to check. One is in the fuse box under the dash, labeled radio, and the other is in the fuse box in the engine and is labeled radio/back up. They are both 7.5A fuses.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macdaddydelux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i was riding down the road today & went to plug my phone into the car charger & my cd player & car charger quit working..whats wrong?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
What's next? I'm waiting for the thread that says "I was driving down the road, and this yellow light came on in the cluster, and then, a little while later, my car stalled out and won't start again. What's wrong?"

Do people really not know what fuses are for and where they're located?
What's next? I'm waiting for the thread that says "I was driving down the road, and this yellow light came on in the cluster, and then, a little while later, my car stalled out and won't start again. What's wrong?"

Do people really not know what fuses are for and where they're located?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macdaddydelux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ur an idiot!....thanks for the help guys</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol. that was funny.
i am in the same boat as you though man. i have checked myself both fuse spots and actually i pulled all the fuses with no luck of finding a blown fuse. i saw one thread that said it could be grounded out and others stated that we would have to hook up a volt meter or something. another said to hook it up directly to the battery to see if it even still works.
lol. that was funny.
i am in the same boat as you though man. i have checked myself both fuse spots and actually i pulled all the fuses with no luck of finding a blown fuse. i saw one thread that said it could be grounded out and others stated that we would have to hook up a volt meter or something. another said to hook it up directly to the battery to see if it even still works.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flight50 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol. that was funny.
i am in the same boat as you though man. i have checked myself both fuse spots and actually i pulled all the fuses with no luck of finding a blown fuse. i saw one thread that said it could be grounded out and others stated that we would have to hook up a volt meter or something. another said to hook it up directly to the battery to see if it even still works. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you verifying that the fuses are good with a meter? Or did they just look good?
lol. that was funny.
i am in the same boat as you though man. i have checked myself both fuse spots and actually i pulled all the fuses with no luck of finding a blown fuse. i saw one thread that said it could be grounded out and others stated that we would have to hook up a volt meter or something. another said to hook it up directly to the battery to see if it even still works. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you verifying that the fuses are good with a meter? Or did they just look good?
im having the same problem too. my radio wont turn on, and no power is going to my amp. I checked under my hood and in place of the 7A fuse that is supposed to be there, theres a 20A fuse. I dont know why thats there. kinda strange. Is that okay?
i havent tried checking out the one under my dash, ill try that out and see what happens. Also when i push the eject button, it still ejects and takes in cds. weird.
i havent tried checking out the one under my dash, ill try that out and see what happens. Also when i push the eject button, it still ejects and takes in cds. weird.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you verifying that the fuses are good with a meter? Or did they just look good?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
they just looked good. what i have been seeing as advice in other similar threads,is that they are saying check the radio under dash and engine fuses. and to check them all not just the radio ones. they didn't mention to use a meter unless i was trying to trace current on a wire.
Are you verifying that the fuses are good with a meter? Or did they just look good?
</TD></TR></TABLE>they just looked good. what i have been seeing as advice in other similar threads,is that they are saying check the radio under dash and engine fuses. and to check them all not just the radio ones. they didn't mention to use a meter unless i was trying to trace current on a wire.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC4R27 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im having the same problem too. my radio wont turn on, and no power is going to my amp. I checked under my hood and in place of the 7A fuse that is supposed to be there, theres a 20A fuse. I dont know why thats there. kinda strange. Is that okay?
i havent tried checking out the one under my dash, ill try that out and see what happens. Also when i push the eject button, it still ejects and takes in cds. weird.</TD></TR></TABLE> It is never OK to replace a fuse with a bigger one, it can literarily burn your car to the ground.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flight50 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
they just looked good. what i have been seeing as advice in other similar threads,is that they are saying check the radio under dash and engine fuses. and to check them all not just the radio ones. they didn't mention to use a meter unless i was trying to trace current on a wire.</TD></TR></TABLE> A fuse can look perfectly good and still be bad, with "blade" type fuses, [ATC] vibration can cause the fuse filament to break at the point where it is connected to the fuse "legs", the fuse looks good but there is no connection between the legs.
Sometimes even a meter will not detect the break unless the fuse is under a load, EG; you pull the fuse and meter for continuity between the legs and it meters good
or you use a meter to test for voltage at both test tips with the fuse still plugged in and both test tips show 12V+, yet when you turn on the load, say the radio, it does not work, now when you test for voltage at the test tips only one side shows 12V+.
The only absolutely sure way I have found to be sure it is not a fuse problem is to replace the fuse with a known good one, new fuse, or stick the suspected fuse in a working circuit, EG; pull the fuse of a working circuit like the dome light, then stick the suspect fuse into that slot, if the dome light works the fuse is good, you have turned you car into the worlds most expensive test light, but a good one.
94
i havent tried checking out the one under my dash, ill try that out and see what happens. Also when i push the eject button, it still ejects and takes in cds. weird.</TD></TR></TABLE> It is never OK to replace a fuse with a bigger one, it can literarily burn your car to the ground.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flight50 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
they just looked good. what i have been seeing as advice in other similar threads,is that they are saying check the radio under dash and engine fuses. and to check them all not just the radio ones. they didn't mention to use a meter unless i was trying to trace current on a wire.</TD></TR></TABLE> A fuse can look perfectly good and still be bad, with "blade" type fuses, [ATC] vibration can cause the fuse filament to break at the point where it is connected to the fuse "legs", the fuse looks good but there is no connection between the legs.
Sometimes even a meter will not detect the break unless the fuse is under a load, EG; you pull the fuse and meter for continuity between the legs and it meters good
or you use a meter to test for voltage at both test tips with the fuse still plugged in and both test tips show 12V+, yet when you turn on the load, say the radio, it does not work, now when you test for voltage at the test tips only one side shows 12V+.
The only absolutely sure way I have found to be sure it is not a fuse problem is to replace the fuse with a known good one, new fuse, or stick the suspected fuse in a working circuit, EG; pull the fuse of a working circuit like the dome light, then stick the suspect fuse into that slot, if the dome light works the fuse is good, you have turned you car into the worlds most expensive test light, but a good one.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macdaddydelux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep, it was just a blown fuse under the dash</TD></TR></TABLE>
Surprise!!!
Kind of makes you one of the 9.
94
Surprise!!!
Kind of makes you one of the 9.
94
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Sep 16, 2004 03:21 PM




