Projectjdm4

suspendedHatch

Do you think bestbuy or circuit city does stealth install? or i have to find a guy to do it.....

Jose-aka-Pedro

Im just going to say that
they dont.

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The downward firing motion sensor is recommended by fcm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have mine run that way and it has always worked flawlessly.

suspendedHatch

No, we don't. In fact, besides myself, unless they've read my writeup, there's no Circuit City or Best Buy employee that even knows what a stealth install is.

It's a 10+ hour job.

Jose-aka-Pedro

Gah I cant wait to get this going!

I gotta wait a couple weeks tho.
Untill school is done and I have a week
I can go without my car.

So yeah. Im so excited. But waiting.

miro_gt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, we don't. In fact, besides myself, unless they've read my writeup, there's no Circuit City or Best Buy employee that even knows what a stealth install is.

It's a 10+ hour job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

great job on that write up

when they installed my viper 2-way, they forgot to wire my trunk so when my alarm is activated, I can open my trunk with a key and it wont activate. Dumb. But I'll fix that soon ... that's probably only one wire that I should connect.

thanks for the support though

suspendedHatch

They didn't forget. We just don't do it unless specifically requested, and then we usually charge for it.

Personally I'll hook it up on a Honda/Acura that I'm familar with and/or on any car if it takes me less than 10 minutes.

I'm talking about at work, not when I'm doing a side job.

Projectjdm4

damn i need to find someone who can do a stealth install in the WA or OR area....

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Projectjdm4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn i need to find someone who can do a stealth install in the WA or OR area.... </TD></TR></TABLE>Look in the Mirror!!!

I only recently did my first wiring job. It wasn't as involving as a full-featured alarm, but once you get a few small things working, the "I Might F-Up My Car" intimidation factor goes down considerably.

The key is confidence. You gain confidence mostly through study and practice. As you do so, experience will help give you even more. The best confidence builder (IMHO) was the Helm Manual. It's hard for me to feel comfortable working on my car without first consulting it, but I'm quite sure I'm better off for doing so...

As recently as 6 months ago, I had ZERO experience, ZERO tools, and ZERO knowledge (but an OK foundation). After finally installing (and re-installing) a few Kill Switches, I'm getting closer to redoing the job the ******** did on my Alarm Install. If you don't have the patience nor passion for doing this for your own pride and joy, then you'll have to roll the dice with someone else. Unfortunately, there are only few people we'd feel comfortable doing this with... Few people will care more for your own **** than yourself.

Anyway, I hope I can motivate you to do your own work. The feeling of gratification you get from doing so is something you'll have to experience yourself. But if it's even a fraction of what I felt, then you'll be glad you did.

I started small, in my apartment. I practiced Crimping Wires to Wires, and Wires to Connectors. I practiced Splicing and Looming, and I did a lot of reading on the problems people commonly encounter when they did what I wanted to do. After a week, I started Soldering. When it came time to get to work, I felt I had the skills necessary to carry out my tasks, but still proceeded with the necessary caution of a noob...

This is likely the only way you'll get what YOU REALLY WANT from your install. Otherwise, at best, you will get someone else's interpretation of what you told him/her you needed. Again, few people have the knowledge/experience to give you exactly what you want, and even fewer care enough to do so...

Best of luck to you! You can do it!
JasonGhostz


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A.W.A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yesterday, I could not even spell "S-T-U-P-I-D"... Today, I AM ONE!</TD></TR></TABLE>

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miro_gt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when they installed my viper 2-way, they forgot to wire my trunk so when my alarm is activated, I can open my trunk with a key and it wont activate. Dumb. But I'll fix that soon ... that's probably only one wire that I should connect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My Alarm will (also?) sound its Siren when the Trunk Lid is opened while the system is armed, regardless of whether a Key is used or not. Why is this dumb? I have triggered my Alarm because of it, but is there any reason other than this rare annoyance as to why this shouldn't be?

I consider the Trunk Lid an Entry Point for my vehicle, in addition to being a cover for storage area. I can imagine a scenario where someone other than myself might have a usable Key (or any other device (latch cable)) to open it when I don't want it opened. What are the benefits of having it the other way?

My imagination is mostly confined to the bounds of *my* car's imagined use. If anyone can shed more light as to why there is benefit to having it "the other way", please chime in.

I'm such a dummeh...
JasonGhostz

chrisw85

Quick question suspended hatch, when you say to 'tie-together' H1/8 [Green -door trigger] to the H1/9 [black/white -domelight], do you mean to splice them together (looke like you did in your pic of the harness)? I don't see what this does, other than the install manual on my viper 5900 saying that the -200mA domelight supervision output should not be used to drive anything but a relay? THe diagram in the guide says to hook it up to the 'optional domelight supervision relay' [black/white to pin 85, domelight supervision polarity {+ or -} to pin 87, +12v constant to pin 86, and domelight supervision wire to pin 30.

winneth

Hi everyone, i posted here before (like on page 5-6) and i finally gathered all the parts and stuff for the stealth install.

I ran into some issues though, before doing the backupbattery i wanted to see if i had my wiring correct and connected the constant 12v to the brain and tried to program the unit...

This is what i have so far:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2017030

If anyone can help me out it would be great.

Thanks

DOHCgarage919

h

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quick question suspended hatch, when you say to 'tie-together' H1/8 [Green -door trigger] to the H1/9 [black/white -domelight], do you mean to splice them together (looke like you did in your pic of the harness)? I don't see what this does, other than the install manual on my viper 5900 saying that the -200mA domelight supervision output should not be used to drive anything but a relay? THe diagram in the guide says to hook it up to the 'optional domelight supervision relay' [black/white to pin 85, domelight supervision polarity {+ or -} to pin 87, +12v constant to pin 86, and domelight supervision wire to pin 30.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is true. On the new Clifford, vipers I would suggest to use a relay. If you have one on thoses aftermarket bright light bulbs or multi lights hooked up to your dome lights. It will pop the resistor that supplies the 200ma ground. The alarm will still work. If you don't use a relay the light will be a little dim. Dei will not warranty the brain if you hook up that wire wrong anymore. The older units worked like a champ a long time ago.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by winneth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi everyone, i posted here before (like on page 5-6) and i finally gathered all the parts and stuff for the stealth install.

I ran into some issues though, before doing the backupbattery i wanted to see if i had my wiring correct and connected the constant 12v to the brain and tried to program the unit...

This is what i have so far:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2017030

check your thread

EK9-Stealth

i didnt read the whole post so someone may have already said this... if they really wanted your car.. they would tow it..

suspendedHatch

Yeah you probably should have read up before posting that ignorance.

chrisw85

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is true. On the new Clifford, vipers I would suggest to use a relay. If you have one on thoses aftermarket bright light bulbs or multi lights hooked up to your dome lights. It will pop the resistor that supplies the 200ma ground. The alarm will still work. If you don't use a relay the light will be a little dim. Dei will not warranty the brain if you hook up that wire wrong anymore. The older units worked like a champ a long time ago. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So, I'll use a relay, but whats the best way to wire it up going by your stealth install?

I'll connect pin 86 the +12v constant to the red wire of the main, the H1/4-black/white wire to 85, (and put a diode across 85 and 86, striped facing the +12?), but where do I tap inot the 'domelight supervision wire' and the domelight 'supervision polarity' (I'm assuming you just find the domelight wire and place pins 87 and 30 inbetween them)? Aren't they the same as the door trigger on our hondas? The 5G civic wire chart there doesn't show the wire for the domelight.

suspendedHatch

All relays are wired the same. 85 and 86 are your control. if you have a negative output from the alarm, connect it to 85 or 86. Connect the other to a fused constant 12v. Connect 87 (the relay's output when activated) to your door trigger wire (green wire on your alarm). Connect the green wire to your car's door trigger wire (light green/red). Connect 30 to whatever you want the relay to give to 87 when it's activated, in this case, ground.

You should have a fairly good understanding of relays before you attempt an alarm install. They are very simple. When the relay is "off", 30 and 87a are connected. When the relay is "on", 87a is disconnected and 87 is connected to 30. It's a type of switch. You can put whatever the F you want between 87 and 30. 86 and 85 are your control, or the toggle button to your switch, but it's electricity flowing across it instead of your finger pressing a toggle. Put a positive to one side, and a negative to the other side, and the relay is on. Remove power or ground from either pin and the relay is off.

Or you can just Y the green and the black white wires together and connect the green to your car's door trigger wire.

PhrequenC

few questions, i just bought a python 990, and im ordering the rest of the sensors and things listed. (tilt, glass, piezo and battery) now i also saw a Window Automatic System/530T. how hard is this also to wire up to my alarm/remotestart.

i also realized that there isnt a write up on installing remote starts. any place i look to have that installed (DIY), i will be performing this installation on my civic myself, or does the alarm install basically cover the remote start function too? i dont think it does becuase of the fact that i dont see any mention on by passng the clutch switch.

also, for the fuel kill switch, is it posibble to use a relay to connect it to the alarm to kill it when the alarm is armed and turn it back on when its unalarmed and how would i go about this?

btw, thanks for replying whenever you do with info becuase i would REALLY like to get it going asap.

chrisw85

thanks suspendedhatch, i have a bunch of spare relays i'm just going to wire it in w/a relay since thats what the manual says, i dont want to risk blowing that part of the circuit.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So, I'll use a relay, but whats the best way to wire it up going by your stealth install?

I'll connect pin 86 the +12v constant to the red wire of the main, the H1/4-black/white wire to 85, (and put a diode across 85 and 86, striped facing the +12?), but where do I tap inot the 'domelight supervision wire' and the domelight 'supervision polarity' (I'm assuming you just find the domelight wire and place pins 87 and 30 inbetween them)? Aren't they the same as the door trigger on our hondas? The 5G civic wire chart there doesn't show the wire for the domelight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wire it up next to the alarm brain. If you look into the pic below you will see the dome light supervision relay. You can get away with it on honda's to splice both wires toghter. But the light will be dim. On cars with more then one dome light you must use a relay. If you use a relay the light will be brighter then if you don't.


This alarm was preped for a member that was getting a full stealth into a itr. Its going into the factory harness.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9-Stealth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt read the whole post so someone may have already said this... if they really wanted your car.. they would tow it.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he ment to say if they really want my car, they will tow it. Why don't you read on how to keep your car instead of making dumb comments.

PhrequenC

can anyone help me?

suspendedHatch

PhrequenC Actually everything you need to know has been covered in the sticky write ups and the site I made in my sig.

ugh, wrx, I hate seeing that kind of alarm prep. I know you've been doing this a lot longer than I have, and that that is the way it's done throughout the industry, but I hate it and it makes me sick. You try to R&R an alarm done that way and it's a total mess. It takes forever to tape those wires out and it does no real good because they still stand out against the factory wiring. Just a big waste of labor and materials. The only good thing is that it colors the wires black. Wires are grouped into 2's and 3's because they end up spiderwebbing throughout the dash.

I leave all the wires naked. I group them together and split loom them. They go to two places, the ignition harness and the driver's kick. The wires blend in against all the factory loom. R&R or adding onto the alarm is cake. Real clean.

You keep doing what works for you. Just warn me to look away before you post it up.