SPEED123

Just recently had a viper alarm 5900 installed on my car.

What is the possibilty that if lets say I dropped my car off to get some work done and someone purchased the same remote as in if you lost your remote (replacement remote) and programed the remote to turn on and off your car alarm on your car.

Is this possible to have your remote work and another remote to work at the same time? Does the code hopping from one remote eliminate this?

suspendedHatch

In order for a remote to work the alarm has to be programmed to recognize it. You program the alarm to recognize the remote by turning the key on and hitting the valet button a certain amount of times. In other words, you don't have anything to worry about unless you had it installed at a questionable shop.

Osiris94EJ

I have a simple question about a Viper 560XV My remote is somehow now only programed to Arm/Lock car and the other 3 buttons are useless. It used to work as a factory keyless entry system has worked before. So if i unplug constant and switched power from the alarm will it reset? If at all possible can you give me better directions as how to reprogram the remote back to the standard configuration. Ive tried setting it back but somehow it went from having separate lock/arm, unlock/disarm, aux, 2nd channel output (usually remote start right?). But now the Lock button does nothing, and the unlock button only locks/arms with no disarm. so i had to unlock my car with the key, bear with my 3 sirens and disable the brain. I dont have battery backup yet. Waiting till i upgrade to the 2-way system. So DEI's instructions confused me and i dont know how to set it all back to Factory configuration. Somebody please help me out.......

Osiris94EJ

Anybody?

mineonlymine

Excellent guide. Thanks a lot.

I followed the advice on using two sirens, one internal and one external. When tring to defeat my own security system, I thought up of a way that may quickly disable the internal siren. With access to the engine bay, instead of simply cutting the external siren wire, I can touch it to the body of the car and short out the siren signal. That should also disable any other sirens and possibly damage the alarm control unit. Is my assessment accurate that this is a weakness?

For my car, I got a GSM alarm system imported from China that can page my cell phone anywhere in the country (once there's GSM cell reception, which is almost everywhere in my country). I can also control the alarm via phone and do other cool things like listen in, and speak to driver. Also activate immobilizer in case I get hijacked. The anti-hijacking was the main feature I wanted.

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mineonlymine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Excellent guide. Thanks a lot.

I followed the advice on using two sirens, one internal and one external. When tring to defeat my own security system, I thought up of a way that may quickly disable the internal siren. With access to the engine bay, instead of simply cutting the external siren wire, I can touch it to the body of the car and short out the siren signal. That should also disable any other sirens and possibly damage the alarm control unit. Is my assessment accurate that this is a weakness?

For my car, I got a GSM alarm system imported from China that can page my cell phone anywhere in the country (once there's GSM cell reception, which is almost everywhere in my country). I can also control the alarm via phone and do other cool things like listen in, and speak to driver. Also activate immobilizer in case I get hijacked. The anti-hijacking was the main feature I wanted.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is why you add a 1amp fuse inline on the power wire for the siren. This will protect the other siren as well as the alarm. Although, most newer alarms (like DEI) have diod issolation inside the alarm which will protect the brain itself from damage.

99mrEM1

Phrequenc, Did you ever make that write up (with pictures) on the hood latch relocation for 96-00 Civics? Sorry, don't mean to highjack the thread...was just curious!

VictorVictor5

First, great post!

I have a classic Honda, literally. '88 Accord, 4-door, manual.

How do the instructions on this post differ? I.e., say I wanted to install the fuel, starter, ignition and clutch kill switches. Are these components still in the same place (generally) or totally different?

Same for the hood cable? They can cut through the fendersplash (or onder the front bumper) and hit the engine block that way? expletivein A!

I'm trying to make my car crackhead proof. Stealth is also a plus, I totally agree.

expletive, if I could put armor on this thing with .50 cals mounted by the sunroof, I would!

Cheers
VV5

D50boy

SuspendedHatch, thanks for the write-up. I'm using it to help with my alarm installation.

I'll share a kill switch that I've been using for the past 3 years with no problems. I found it back in the day and the page is back up. It is a bit more complicated than a regular rocker type kill switch but it works like a champ! Those with difficulties using a SPDT might have a really hard time with a DPDT relay. All parts cost me about $50 at Frys or Radio Shack.

You'll have an exposed arming pushbutton. Pushing the button will arm the system-cutting whatever circuit- and turn on a flashing LED. To disarm the system, wave a magnet over the hidden spot where your disarm manget reed swich is hidden. The light will turn off and the system will allow whatever circuit to work again. one could use it on the fuel pump, starter, clutch, ignition, ECU power... use your imagination!

Magnetic kill switch How To:

http://autospeed.com/A_107975/cms/article.html

Dead CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

so if my alarm is phuked up and not active but the key wont turn on the car???
does this mean i have to take it to a pro...or is a DIY to bypass the thing that doen't let it cranck.??


Modified by Dead CIVIC at 10:52 PM 2/22/2008

DoubleOCivicSI80

Can the fuel kill be controlled by your alarm ground-when-armed output, r does it have to be switch controlled?

D50boy

I'm sure it can be... but why not make it a separate thing altogether? It'll be another thing that a thief will have to find and figure out.

Unbreakable6161

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DoubleOCivicSI80 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can the fuel kill be controlled by your alarm ground-when-armed output, r does it have to be switch controlled?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just use a relay. If your installing your alarm in the rear quarter panel than the fuel pump wire is right there. Make sure you loop 86 and 30, so the switch is thrown when power is sent to the pump. (30-power side, 87-load side, 85-alarm ground)

MeanGreenMachine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unbreakable6161 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just use a relay. If your installing your alarm in the rear quarter panel than the fuel pump wire is right there. Make sure you loop 86 and 30, so the switch is thrown when power is sent to the pump. (30-power side, 87-load side, 85-alarm ground)


</TD></TR></TABLE>

so this means that your fuel pump is de-activated everytime you arm your alarm?

MeanGreenMachine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhrequenC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im working on it. im making a step by step guide for 96+</TD></TR></TABLE>

still working on it? the guide for 96-00 civic hood cable relocation?

JasonGhostz

I picked up some nice goodies today. Got some Brown FuseBox Option Plugs, both sides, and even found a Green one off an Integra w/a 10g Ignition wire!

I also got the Ignition/Starter plugs that suspendedHatch uses for his Engine Bay Ignition Kill. I'll wire and loom it up and put it up for sale if anyone wants it. I can't use it...

Anyway, thanks for all the great info!
JasonGhostz

kelviiv

i was in my friends car and saw that he had some what of a kill switch, it was in his integra, called "loctronics" ? he said it was common for most integras, are those easy to bypass

JasonGhostz

http://www.aboutsecurityconcep...at=71
http://sacramento.citysearch.c....html

This is all I've found on them. If you really want to know, you'll have to do some digging yourself...

Hope this helps.
JasonGhostz

JasonGhostz

I guess it's not really too big of a deal, but I was wondering if anyone knows of good techniques for taping (not tapping) a "T" connection. I'm not completely nept, but I'm certainly not experienced enough to know how to do so effectively without using a lot of tape.

In any case, I wired up the Engine Bay Ignition Kill like suspendedHatch did, so if anyone wants it, or pics of it, lemme know.

JasonGhostz

JasonGhostz

I'm not sure about how many other chassis families have them, but for those who aren't and don't plan on installing OEM Foglights...

On the EK, there is a single wire Brown Plug in the Engine Bay that connects to another Brown Plug in the Cabin, just behind the Fuse Box (both male). It's either 20 or 18 gage, and is Blue/Red. I am not 100% sure whether this wire connects to anything else, but I don't think so. It will show in the Helm Manual as the Foglight Connector. This is also where you want to look on any salvage yard EKs if you want to use them any of your FuseBox Freepins.

Anyway if you have the Female side (or even if you don't), you can use it to avoid going through a grommet for something like an Engine Bay Igntion Kill Ground or a Hood Pin Trigger Wire, Siren, etc. It also saves the time of taping and relooming the harness.

Hope this helps!
JasonGhostz

JasonGhostz

On my 96-00 CIVIC EX, there is (what looks to be) a 12ga Red/Green wire from the Combo Light Switch to the FuseBox.

Can I tap my Alarm's Parking Light output to this instead of the Red/Black Wire found in other places?

Thanks in advance!
JasonGhostz


Modified by JasonGhostz at 8:31 PM 6/11/2008

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonGhostz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On my 96-00 CIVIC EX, there is (what looks to be) a 12ga Red/Green wire from the Combo Light Switch to the FuseBox.

Can I tap my Alarm's Parking Light output to this instead of the Red/Black Wire found in other places?</TD></TR></TABLE>I think I found my answer. Thanks for the (ahem) help...

This Red/Green Wire connects the Combo Switch with the UTD FuseBox. With the Combo Switch in the 2nd or 3rd position, it supplies +12v 30A from he UTH FuseBox (#48).

Since I'm going to be connecting to this wire instead of the Red/Black wire (which is 7.5A), I'll be adding a 7.5A Fuse close to where I connect to the RedGreen from the Combo Switch.

I hope I'm right...
JasonGhostz

civicboom

Just wanted to say nice job, I have been installing this crap for 17 years and its nice to see someone care how it goes in!!!

90si-rex

quick question.....i'm installing a hornet 740t in my crx, and i have a question about one of the wires. there's an orange wire on the main harness that's identified as "ground when armed". in the install manual it says that it should go to an optional sensor or accessory. my question is this.....can i wire that into the factory horn to give myself a back up to the alarm's siren? i plan on installing the alarm tomorrow, so quick answers are appreciated.

baller status

You would need a relay. It's not recommended though as hooking the alarm to the horn is extremely annoying. A piezo siren hidden in the interior is a better option.

That wire is for your start-kill relay.