Ive been looking for a distribution block so I can finally hook and amp up to my front speakers but im not sure what I need... can anyone tell me what I should get or recommend a distribution block that will suit my needs? Thanks!

 

If all you are installing is one amp, you definitely do not need a distribution block.

If you already have an amp, [sub maybe] and you are adding an amp, run a new power lead for the new amp, it is a better way to go then a distribution block. 94

 

Ok... So if I just attach it to the battery it'll be fine? Is there something I can buy so I can connect all the wires together? something similar to this http://img143.imageshack.us/my...1.jpg (Thanks to Mac_24_Seven for the pic)

 

Or like this http://www.woofersetc.com/inde...=6002 The only thing im concerned about is that my battery has two wires comming out of it right now and im not sure if I can fit another #8 on top of those with that stinger battery terminal... and will it be fine without a distribution block? I just thought I needed a fuse for the amp at the battery just incase.


Modified by 94 IntegraLS at 1:53 PM 12/3/2007

 

You do not need batt. terminal either, [unless your going for the bling] just get a ring terminal that is the proper gauge for the power cable you are going to use, and has the right stud size, [hole] to fit the stock batt. clamp bolt, [iso 10mm] and an extra 10mm nut to fit the bolt.

Power wire gauge will depend on amps total RMS wattage and distance from batt.

Get some power wire, [again, gauge will depend on amps wattage] a ANL fuse holder, like this... http://www.scosche.com/product...D/282
The appropriate sized ANL fuse, like these... http://www.scosche.com/product...D/771
The right sized ring terminals, [gauge and stud size] kind of like these, but not... http://www.scosche.com/product...D/829

Ring gauge should be the same for all of them, however, stud size will differ, you will need 1 that fits the batt., 2 that fit the fuse holder, maybe 2 that fit the amp, [if needed] and 1 to fit your ground.

Save your money and stay away from "gold" ring terminals, the link was only to show you the type, find your local Pico dealer and get "brazed seam" ring terminals, a hell of a lot cheaper, and better, and you can get exactly what you need. 94

 

why not just get a capacitor? 1 farad cap should do the trick that way you can distribute the power to your amps and not have to worry about draining your battery.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicPride97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just get a capacitor? 1 farad cap should do the trick that way you can distribute the power to your amps and not have to worry about draining your battery.......</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wait... Wat???

That is definitely not a proper solution... And what does draining the battery have to do with the OP's original question? I really don't want to skew this thread off topic, but do you have any clue how capacitors function in a system?

 

Yes i do know how a capacitor functions in a system and gettn a cap isnt really a bad solution imo. Doing this will save you from excess wiring plus there will still be a inline fuse between the battery and cap. This will also take some of the load off the battery which will decrease your headlights from dimming etc. once again this is my opinion. for example you can run a 4 gauge from the battery to the cap and from the cap run 8 gauge to your amps with separate grounds.............

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicPride97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes i do know how a capacitor functions in a system and gettn a cap isnt really a bad solution imo. Doing this will save you from excess wiring plus there will still be a inline fuse between the battery and cap. This will also take some of the load off the battery which will decrease your headlights from dimming etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It is indeed a bad solution. Excess wiring? What if the person has one 8 ga wire ran from the battery? Would it be a good idea to split that one 8 ga wire from a capacitor into a 4 channel amp and a high-current sub amp?

 

well answer me this, would you run a 8ga wire from your battery to a high current amp?

 

I wouldn't. But for the person who didn't know any better reading your drivel, he might decide that it's a good idea and follow your instructions.

 

So let me ask you, why do you consider getting a cap a bad idea? Other than the fact that it would be stupid to split a 8 ga wire from the battery to the cap .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicPride97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So let me ask you, why do you consider getting a cap a bad idea? Other than the fact that it would be stupid to split a 8 ga wire from the battery to the cap . </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicPride97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So let me ask you, why do you consider getting a cap a bad idea? Other than the fact that it would be stupid to split a 8 ga wire from the battery to the cap . </TD></TR></TABLE>


First you should really read the op question. He did not ask anything about a cap. It is for a distrubition block to run two amps. He did not even post what he had before you told him to split something with a cap. Really bad advice. Because the op could of just did that with out running the right gauge wire.

 

"you can run a 4 gauge from the battery to the cap and from the cap run 8 gauge to your amps with separate grounds............."

That would mean you would have 8ga power leads protected by a fuse that is meant for a 4ga power lead.

The other problem you would have is the cap would be "stiffening" the the current for both the low-pass amp, [sub amp] and the high-pass amp, ["speaker" amp] not what you want.

Yet another problem is the sub and high-pass amps power circuit would be closer
to to each other then they are to the power supply, [batt./alt.], so when the sub amp needs current and the cap needs current, they will draw it from the high-pass amps power supply, [caps], starving the high-pass amp of current .

I have no problem with using a cap, but use it for it's intended purpose, and a splitter block is not it.

The best solution is the one I suggested, run another power lead for the new amp. 94