I plan on running a component set up front with about 100 watts rms for each pair, and one image dynamics 10 inch (IDMAX). Could I power the entire system with one amp. If so which one and if not what amps should I get?

 

I need about the same amount of power but I'm gonna go with a little less *reported* power (75x4) and possibly get the JL 300/4.

 

100 watts to a comp set is quite a bit what speaker are you going to be running?
also 100 x 4 would normally give you 400x2 bridged which might be underpowering an idmax slightly (btw is the idmax 10 out yet? )


anyways though you could look into:
autotek sx4160
orion xtr 800.4
rf 600.4 / 600a4 (usually birth around 100x4 at 14v)
rf 800.4 / 800a4 (from what i've seen usually birth from 950-1100 watts)

thats off the top of my head, theres probably a few others, i know ppi makes a couple high power 4channels.


personally id suggest running 2 amps

 

I'm running Illusion Audio ND6.1s. Illusion reports the RMS power rating at 100W for these components. I just found out the JL 300/4 is underrated - it's been tested at 95x4!

 

Yes it is possible to run a 2 channel amp 3 channel. You run the left and right as normal and then bridge the amp mono for the sub. You will have to run a passive crossover set-up on all of the speakers, but it should be cheaper than buying multiple amps. The other thing to consider is a 4 channel amp, as mentioned prior, and use the front for the mids and highs, and bridge the rear channel to the sub. Shop around for the amp, if you can listen to it before you buy. Each amp will have different features too, but just because it has lots of neat stuff doesn't make it a good amp. The best source will be the installers (not the salesman) at the shops you go to, they will know which amps will fit what you want.

 

I am not sure how you would hook that up? Are you saying hook the fronts up left and right then bride the sub on the same outputs you have the fronts? Are you talking about running the fronts off the left side and the subs off the right side? You may be able to do that, but I would NEVER do it in my car.

 

From what I understand, the IDMAX 10 is a far cry from being completed...I have only seen the basket for the 15", and have heard nothing about a 10, so I would suggest you try the 12".

Now the only amp, that I know of, that is capable of powering a MAX and components all in one heat sink, is the Memphis Belle.

It's rated at 75 x 4 @ 4 ohm + 1000W x 1 @ 1 ohm. It's a hybrid amp that is essentially their 300.4 and a 1000d all in one heatsink (I know those model numbers are off - can't rmember all of them!!). So it's class a/b for the highs and a class D section for the subs.

It was reviewed in this months car audio and electronics. It got an ok review, not the cleanest amp, but if you want one amp to power your system, here's the one. I would suggest you biamp the front components, and run the max off the sub channel.

Oh, and can some one please post the link where a JL was tested higher than advertised?? I'd be very interested to read it.

 

No, he's right...they used to sell a passive crossover that you hooked up to a two channel amp that was stable to 2 ohm stereo loads. You would output the amp to the crossover, then connect the crossover to both your componnets and your sub. That was about 6 years ago when they sold it in crutchfield...looked good on paper, probably sounded terrible.