driver side kick pannel.

 

Drivers side, just above kick panel trim, above and behind hood release ****/lever.

It is also a good idea to relocate the relay to a less accessible, [for crook] location. 94

 

Hey fcm, The newer dei version of the 5901-50.7x does not have a relay pack anymore in the states. Its a on board the alarm brain now and makes it a pia to do stealth installs.






see to the right of the brain the big white molex plug.



Op if the car is still starting I do beleive that you have the wrong wire taged for ignition. The diagram is correct.

 

So I wire the PINK Ignition 1 output to the black/yellow ignition wire under the steering column? Then run a wire off that to 86 and another to the ignition wire on the main relay??

Help me to understand the relay function in this situation.. When you arm the alarm and turn the key to on the relay has a power and ground so it clicks, connecting the other two leads(each side of the cut main relay ground) therefore grounding the relay and the car starts??? I must be wrong somewhere in this explanation so could someone help me out to understand this... thanks

 

So I wired it to what I feel is the same as the diagram. When I arm it and turn the key to on it sets off the alarm but it will still start... ah I hate electrical, so confusing.

 

IC, I have not seen the new ones yet, but IMO it's a better way to go, I never liked the relay pack anyway, just something else you had to mount someplace.

DEI still shows the old version on their support site, all that old stuff will probably be dumped up here, chit. 94

 

make sure the relay is good. And you have 30 and 87a being used on the relay and not 30 and 87. Your diagram is right and should work. Do you have a meter to make sure you got the right wire. Also is the alarm throw out ground when the unit is armed. Is the alarm grounded on a good ground.

 

Yeah I can feel the relay click and it sets off the alarm when i turn the key to on, but the car is still able to start?

 

Well this is gonna sound dumb, but am I supposed to have a 4 or 5 prong relay? I have a 4 and I was looking at the diagram and it doesnt make sense to work with this situation... let me know

 

You need a SPST or SPDT relay, N/C, [normally closed] it can have 5 terminals, [SPDT] or 4 terminals, [SPST].

If the relay you have has 4 terminals and they are numbered like in your diagram..

85 and 86 for relay coil.
30 and 87a relay "switch".

Then either the GWA, [85] is not working or you do not have "true ign.", [hot in run and start] on 86.
Question...
If you turn on the toggle switch, will the car start?
If not, the GWA is not working.
If so, you do not have power, [true ign.] on 86. 94

 

I'm pretty sure I have True ignition done right because when I turn the key to run with the alarm armed it sets the alarm off... but the car will still start...


When the power and ground side of the relay are both working it turns on the switch to connect 87a and 30, wouldnt you not want those to connect? Because then it makes the ground on the main relay work correctly and the car to start, correct??

 

No, I mean at the relay. 94

 

hmm i have a question what happens when the switch is activated while the car is in motion? or like the switch somehow fails to connect the grounds together?
the reason why i ask is because it will be hard to diagnose the problem if its fuel pump related or the main relay kill switch or even a failing main relay...

 

If switch was activated while driving, the PGM-FI Main Relay will shut down turning off the fuel pump, injectors, power to the ECU/ECM and power for a few engine sensor/solenoids.

Question...
Can you start the car if the switch is on? 94

 

yes and no..once in a while it would not start when the switch is on..happened to me 3 times over 1year so its very odd..
i was scared because my car died /stalled while at a stop light it failed to start up right after and after a few crank it started again not sure if its the main relay the switch or an actual fuel related issue

 

Obviously the kill relay is not working properly, you need to pull it and recheck the wiring.

Make sure relay is installed on ground to PGM-FI Main Relay, [black lead].

Cut black lead and connect ends to #30 and #87a of relay.

Connect a "true" ign., [hot in run and start] source to #86 of relay.


Connect the GWA from alarm to #85 of relay.

No connection is made to #87 of relay, [5 pin SPDT relay], the SPST relay must be a N/C, [normally closed, no #87] check the numbers on the relay.

The on/off toggle switch, one side to ground the other to #85 of relay, [same as GWA lead from alarm.

Questions...
Where are you getting the ign. source for relay now?
Where are you getting ign. source for alarm? 94

 

wait wtf we have to run it with a relay didint u say we can do it with just a switch?

 

How do you remove the relay I tried. and the bolt wouldn't move and I didn't want to brake anything

 

Yes, you can use just a switch, I assumed you had the relay as per your diagram.
Never mind, it's not your diagram, your not the OP, your just jacking the tread.

Questions...
Is the switch on the black ground lead to the PGM-FI Main Relay?

What size is the switch, [amperage]? 94

 

hahaha sry for the jack i was just concerned..
i would have to guess on the size.. b/c i found it lying around the garage but i would assume it was a 10amp mini rocker switch. should i play it safe and buy a switch what amperage should it be rated at?

 

Lets stick to the op question because its about to go back and forth.

Op its either the relay, alarm or bad connection. Do you have a diffrent relay to try? Can you test the ground while armed wire? Are you sure your getting the correct ignition wire off the main relay? I seen cases were people tag the fuel pump wire by mistake and the car will run a few sec and die when the relay powered up.


Next question, If its a teg. Hold the relay while you break of the 10mm.

LAst question. I have a shyt load of switches, shoot me a email and I will send you one free of charge