yeah u can still use the cruise switch using his diagram by making the cruise work like a conventional switch..
as for just switch the load to 87 to make it work like the way u want it to... iono if it work that way tho..? anyone want to chime in on this?

 

Yea, im thinking it might work, but i'll wait to see what others say also. Thanks for the help by the way.

 

The wire colors I gave you are for the switch when used as a CC switch, if you want to use it as a "phantom" kill switch connect the black/yellow, [normally 12V+ input] to ground and use the light blue, [normally a 12V+ output, now a ground output] to #85 of the relay, the rest of the relay is correct.

#30 of relay from hot side of cut ign. lead, with a jumper to #86.
#87a of relay to load side of cut ign. lead.

When switch is ON a ground will be supplied to the relay, #85, when ign is turned on 12V+ will be supplied to #86, [from jumper from#30] the relay will energize and open the relay.

If you want the CC switch indicator light to work, connect the black lead to 12V+ switched, [hot when in. switch is in run or start].

I wired my 94LS CC switch up like that on the bench yesterday to test it, the only diff. is the 94-97 Integra switch does not have a light blue lead, it is light green, all else is the same and it works.

I am assuming you are having problems because you are connecting the black/yellow to 12V+ instead of ground. 94

 

I see what you are saying. I am going to try it out in a bit and see if it works. I tried re-wiring everything, so hopefully it works this time. Thanks again for the help. You guys know your stuff.

 

So I hooked it up according to the chart except for I put the load side on 87 rather than 87a. It worked the way I was hoping that way. Now, when I try to start the car without pushing the cruise button on, it wont turn over, but when I press it, it turns on. The only thing I dont like is thatif I hit the button while I am driving it shuts the car off but I guess thats what happens with an ignition kill. No way around it.

 

You can avoid that by using a starter power, [hot when cranking] to #86 instead of the jumper from #30, [ign.] that way the relay can only energize when cranking, you will have to use #87a.
If CC switch is on, supplying a ground to #85 and the start output supplies the 12V+ to #86 the relay will open, cutting ign. power. 94

 

So, to get it to not shut off when I hit the button, I would have to attach a wire from the starter wire to 86 rather than he loop from 30, correct? Then switch the load side to 87a? But the switch would still work opposite of how I want though right? The car would turn on when the button is not turned on, and would not when it is pressed, correct? Sorry about all the questions. I think I get it, but just clarifying. Also, would I have to hook it up to the starter wire under the dash or is there a less obvious spot I could use? Thanks fcm.

 

The car will not start if the switch is on, supplying a ground to the "kill" relay.
The car will start and run if the switch is off, no ground being supplied to "kill" relay.
The switch can be turned on after car is started and car will keep running.

Yes, switch load to 87a and use a lead from starter circuit for #86, [no power unless cranking to start]. 94

 

And would that starter lead be under the dash?

 

What is the MM&Y of car it's going into?

You can find it anyplace along the starting circuit, from the ign. switch harness to the starter motor, [most cars]. 94

 

Its a 93 honda civic coupe, dx. Im just trying to keep anything out of the obvious ignition/starter place under the dash so thieves wont see it. Thanks.

 

You can pick it up at the output of the starter relay, [standard] or A/T gear position switch, [automatic]. 94

 

Ok kool. Thanks again fcm. This became a whole new project for me.

 

Is the gear position switch located on the side of the transmission?

 

Just to the right of shifter under console. 94

 

Cool, thanks man. I think I got it all. Appreciate the help. You know your stuff.