Okay I was going to do a setup similar to this in my civic. Putting the MOMO's in the original kick panel. Now on the passengers side the ecu is behind the kick panel and the speaker is a little too big to fit with the ecu. So should I relocate the ecu or is there any tips or suggestions that you could give me. Thanx.

This similar set up, but on the passengers side

 

yeah extend the wires and move the ecu, not the 1st time I've heard of it, I've actually read about dudes doing it in Car Stereo Review and Car Audio mag. I would contact Eric Holdaway of USD Audio if I was you. He was the guy that originally created kickpanels for cars and he is probably the best person to talk to about moving your car's computer.

 

You are making it far too difficult on yourself. I have built custom kicks for that car before. All you need to do, is detach all of the wiring, and loosen the wires a bit (there are some wire ties there). Build a shroud for the ECU to protect it, attach the ECU to the shroud, get some "L" brackets, and the whole assembly can be relocated to the firewall on the passenger side, just below the heater. It will slip under the carpet, and no one will ever know it's there.

While Eric is an excellent resource in the mobile entertainment world, I don't think you need to go through that kind of expense to complete this task. A few square feet of MDF and two hours you are done.

I would agree that relocating the ECU to under the passenger seat is the "right" way to do it, if you ever wanted to go back to stock, it would be a nightmare. Plus there is the possibility of making a mistake when connecting them and shorting it all out, and there is also the possibility of having one of your solder joints go bad. The ECU is just too important for me to mess around with cutting that harness.

However, if you could make an extension for that harnesss, and try the relocation without any cutting, I would like to try it.

 

how is it an expense to call Eric Holdaway and ask him about something he's done before?
no one said let Eric do the work, I just suggested he speak to him because I know he's done several Honda's

 

Sorry, I see what you are getting at...I was just trying to point out that there was an alternate method to ECU relocation rather then extending your harness.

If you screwed up in the extension process, you could do a lot of damage...I guess I like to work with what I have rather then creating more work for myself and hacking my car to pieces.

 

One more thing....let me know if you need more photos of that car....It's owned by Jessica Voisinet. It's a 96 hatch, and is powered by Zapco amps. The car came in 5th place at the 2001 IASCA world finals in the 1-300W SQ Ultimate Pro division. (at least that's what my IASCA CD says -- can't be 100% sure on the accuracy.)


[Modified by rcurley55, 2:35 AM 10/22/2002]

 

i have Qform kick panels in my civic coupe and i did not have any problems mounting my 6.5 alpine typer components in them at all.. i have seen both the momo and typer speakers side by side and the momo is probably a *little* smaller than the typer but not by much.. both are great speakers and sound great

and if you look at those pics more, they are custom made cause i had to remove my drivers side dead pedal.. they had to relocate several things on the drivers side like the hood latch, and probably wires that run from the fuse box down the kick panel, if they even moved the ecu on the passengers side kickpanel.. all depends on design those are custom and cant be bought anywhere i dont think..

 

those look like pretty simple kicks to make, because they use factory shape and mounting it looks like.

 

While those kicks would be fairly simple to make...there is nothing factory about them....if you take a close look at them, they are not deep enough to be the factory plastic. Also, look, the hood release is gone. There is far more clearance between the deadpedal and the factory kick. It's just a few pieces of mdf, some router work, some fleece, glass, and bondo....nothing special. I could be wrong, but that's how I look at it....the only thing I would have done, is sacrificed a pair of factory kicks as molds....that may be the case for parts of this set, just to get the integration with the door sill, but I still think that these are fully custom.

Now, there's no reason why you couldn't use the factory kick as a mold....the biggest problem is getting the resin to stick to the plastic...I believe a lot of that stuff is polyethelene....the one stuff resin doesn't stick to. There are ways around that though if you guys are interested.

You will have to relocate your factory security system as well, it's behind the drivers side kick...just a though.


[Modified by rcurley55, 6:08 AM 10/23/2002]

 

not to dis those kicks in anyway. they look good, i was commenting on how they kept the "stock" lines and fitment. i would charge $450-500 to build a set of those at work including the polk logo. there is alot of work involved in the finishing of anything fiberglass. just wanted to clarify that my origional comment was not negative at all, they look nice!