not sure maybe the sub is blown....i have a jl 10w6v2d2 sub in a custom sealed enclosure. had it for maybe two years +. its powered by a bazooka amp and its been good for the last two years. i put it into my integra that i just bought and it worked good for about couple weeks. now when i turn it up i hear kind of rattline noise coming from the sub. not sure if something is loose inside. or if the sub is blown. the sub still kicks hard but when volume is turned up it has that rattline noise from the box. not all the time and not all bass...only certain ones. is the VC fucked up?

 

There are some simple tests you can do, remove the sub from the box...

First inspect the tinsel leads, [wire running from terminals to VC], make sure they do not touch anything, [including each other] when you push the cone in and out.
If so ^^^ it is a short, "re-bend" leads so they will no longer touch.

Set speaker down, magnet on table, press cone in, evenly, as far as it will go, using both hands, move around the cone a little each time you press the cone in, listen for "scraping" sound, you can also feel it, if it's there.
If so ^^^ you have a misalighned VC, replace sub.

Hold speaker up to your ear with one hand, [cone facing ear] use your other hand the give the magnet a sharp "thump", listen for a rattle.
If so ^^^ you have a separated VC, replace sub. 94

 

for the magnet does it have to be a big strong one? not sure if i have one..hmm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the magnet does it have to be a big strong one? not sure if i have one..hmm</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL.... The magnet is part of your sub...

You need not wrack your brain trying to come up with another magnet...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the magnet does it have to be a big strong one? not sure if i have one..hmm</TD></TR></TABLE>I have no idea of what your asking. 94

 

none of the tests failed....the leads are ok not shorting

the cone pushed in goes smoothly n hear no scraping, and no rattling?

maybe its the enclosure

 

o yea so i took the sub out and tried playing it with it out the enclosure nothing rattling or loose. sounds ok but again i'm not sure since the sub has to be in an enclosure. but as soon as i put the sub back into the closre just a little bit i hear it rattle again. so im guessing its the enclosre. its also like that when i remove the terminal outputs from the box. the one the speaker wires connects to the amp. when i leave it in, it rattles. when i take it out and play the sub it has no rattl?e

 

I've got a pair of ancient boston acoustics a200's home speakers and my woofers rattle as well. Problem is the glue holding the surround to the cone is history

. When this happens I'm not pushing the speaker to its limits by any means but the sound is totally muddy. In my car though when I am pushing my 6.5" when a loud "crack" happens it's solely because I'm pushing the speaker well beyond its limits.


FCN, I'm need to defer this question to you but is there any possible way the back wave of the speaker is doing this.....maybe the cause of a box too small? Something tells me 'no' but I thought I'd mention it anyway.


Modified by thekid03 at 1:19 AM 9/9/2007

 

ok..correction if it matters but its not the w6, its the w3 not as high powered.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL.... The magnet is part of your sub...</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey guys.....we all had no idea about speaker design/the parts that make up a speaker when we first got into this hobby but gradually built up knowledge. there are people much more knowledgeable than myself on this board but to give someone crap about asking about a magnet is rediculous. I sure as expletive wasn't LOL. If this post was a "my speaker is rattling what do I do" it'd be a different story but he's obviously spent time listening to a variety of music at a variety of volumes before asking a question of what to do next.

here's a bright ******* idea.....let's actually provide some useful information and do the obvious. Book recommendations. Back in my early teens I read Vance Dickensons book "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook".....a great book on enclosures, how speakers work, etc. and what I used to build my first set of home speakers.

want to learn on this board....good ******* luck. At times it's so rediculous to even consider such a silly notion that one should not spend the most amount of money on speakers. I was literally dumb-founded to be arguing such a topic. Whatever.....I find joy in helping people because I love this hobby. There's topics I don't even bring up on this board because of the backlash I know I'd get but would be interested to learn.

supracrx....head over to the elite car audio forum and PM a board member named csuflyboy....he's a nice guy and won't be a god-damn ***** when asking questions. I'm not trying to feel sorry for you but it pisses me off to hear BS replies

 

No it should make no dif. what sub you have.
Yes it is possible it is the box.

It's sounding more and more like a separated VC.
Did you try the "thump test"? 94

 

thump test no rattle

might just try a new box and see how that goes.


Modified by supracrx at 1:58 PM 9/9/2007

 

got a new box today n it still rattles BUT i tried adjusting the gain a bit and when turned down it goes away.....so i guess it was clipping?? not sure wat clippind sounded like but it def sounded like a rattle. so does that mean the amp isn't good enough or the sub is done? its the jl 10w3v2 w/ a bazooka 300/1 amp......

 

if its the AMP would a JL300/2 be better then what i have?

 

The amp is a 300W RMS into 2 ohms, 200W RMS into 4 ohms, if you have the 10W3v2-D4, the DVC 4 ohm sub and the VCs are wired in parallel, then the amp is fine.
What 10W3v2 sub do you have, and how is it wired? 94

 

10w3v2d2...wire in series 4 ohms.

 

That means the amp is putting out 200W RMS, you are underpowered by 100W min. to properly drive a 10W3v2-D2, although 200W RMS should still push the sub pretty good.

A better amp would be a JL Audio 300/1, or any good 300W - 400W RMS into 4 ohms mono block sub amp.

I don't think I would discribe a clipping amp as sounding like a "rattle" from the speaker, (sub) at lower clipping levels it is very subtle, especially from a sub, at higher levels SQ gets "ugly", [distorted] sounding, but still hard to hear over everything else, that's why people damage more speakers with underpowered systems then they do with overpowered systems, it's far easier to drive an underpowered system into constant clipping, or I shod say, people tend to drive underpowered systems into clipping far more often then overpowered systems.

I still believe one of the VCs in the sub has separated from the former, probably at the very end/bottom of the VC, that's why you only hear it at speakers full excursion, turning gain down on an already underpowered amp.

I would check the impedance of the VCs, wired in series the Re is 3.31 ohms, you should meter very close to that, then meter each VC, they should be very close to the same, higher DC resistance levels indicates burnt VC(s). 94

BTW, what is the volume of the new box, net sealed volume for that sub is .625 cuft.

 

thanks FCM. the box is basically a square 12 x 12 x 12....something i got from a friend to just test it out. although if i want it i can keep it. is that box ok though?

im gonna let a friend thats good with audio mess around with it and see what he sees although its not till next week...so i'm gonna see what else i can do.

the other box i had was about 18 x 11 x 10....which box is better? both are made of the same material. sealed.

 

ok FCM i think i might have found a problem

one of the terminals connecting to the VC was loose. the wire that comes out from VC going to some kind of backing plate and where the terminal sticks onto is loose. so it might be that rattling around. how can i permantely stick that back ontothe backing plate. cuz i tried gluing the terminals back onto the plate and the rattle went away but after driving for 15 minutes with music on it came back. i took it out and its loose again. any way of fixing that? can i solder the leads directly to one of the wires?

 

Can you take a pix of the problem, I am not sure what you are referring to.

If you are talking about the "tinsel lead", [wires that run from speaker terminal to the cone and then to the VC] if the problem is at the speaker terminal the tinsel lead needs to be re soldered to the terminal.

Where did you put the glue, and what kind of glue was it? 94