Yeah I think so. but like I said, they work with the CD and Radio.. its just my ipod that isnt playing through them, Which I think is my RCA cables in the back of the H/u??

As for the Amp cutting out.. I used to have a MA audio sub with the amp, and it worked just fine.. Never cut out. my wires are 8 gauge 1000 watt wires. The ground should be good considering it worked fine before.. But I didnt have the MA bridged, and this one is bridged and is now giving me problems.

 

To a HU Ipod it is connected by a special cable? There can be a problem in it?
The amplifier not so powerful. Wires 8 gauge should suffice. If certainly it is a good wire. Check up once again grounding. Also check up fuses. I had such problem as it has appeared, the fuse made in China was guilty.

 

ya ipod is hooked up with interace to h/u with rca cables...

 

as mentioned, check the ground on the amp. the connection could have built up some corrosion. check and clean the ground connection really good.

 

And this problem was from the very beginning or has appeared in due course?

 

It just started, but I went out and made sure all the RCA cables were connected properly.. I just pushed on them all, and now the speakers worth with my ipod.. All is well. Im going to check my ground later..

Right now, my ground is attached to a screw I punched in the frame of the car under the trunk wood and carpet.. like I said it worked fine for a while..

I noticed that the Light on my Amp Flickers when the bass hits.. Is that helpful?

 

Did you not say, "It all worked pretty good For a long time till I decided to turn the amp up a bit.. Now it keeps cutting out, but the AMP is powered on" on your first post????


A better ground would be an existing bolt or stud in the cars floor pan, like seat belt or seat bolts/studs, once you drill a hole in the floor pan rusting will start at the hole as you have broken the sheet metals "rust barrier", I would move it to an existing stud or bolt.

A flickering indicator light could mean a current problem, poor ground or poor power.
The 8ga should be OK for 300W RMS up to about 10-12 feet, I would have used 6ga or 4ga because you are using the amp as a sub amp, it takes a lot of current to make bass.

It is hard to help if you do not answer all the questions asked...

What type of fuse is on the power cable? ?
What gauge is the power and ground cable? 8ga
Where and how is the amp grounded? screw into frame
How long is the ground cable? ?

All the questions. 94

 

sorry for offtopic...
fcm, you work as the саr audio installer?

 

The ground cable is probabl about 2-3 feet long, maybe less.... I bought the kit and the fuse came with it. Its a regular inline fuse, I dont know what you mean.. And I dont want the ground wire to be showing which was why I liked it under the carpet...

But like I said, when it is not bridged, the system runs fine and the light doesnt flicker So I dont know how the power/ground wires would be the problem.

 

It sounds like when the amp is bridged, it is then starving for power. I had the same problem with one of my old setups on an 8ga. power wire. I ran a voltmeter probe at the amp itself while i was playing it loud and the thing only saw 9 volts! The wire offered enough resistance so that the amp could not get enough power when bridged. Upgraded to 4ga. wire and the problem went away.

If you don't feel like getting new wire just yet, make yourself a better ground first.

 

Thanks, I will try that.

 

Yes, over 35 years now.94

 

damn!!!!!! oops did i say that out loud? lol 15 years longer then ive been livving lol

 

If it is an AGU fuse, [big glass fuse]... http://www.scosche.com/products/sfID.../productID/778
Replace it, even if it looks good, a common problem with that type of fuse is, because it has a lot of resistance it can heat up when volume is cranked up, and when you draw a lot of current through resistance the resistor, [fuse in this case] will heat up causing more resistance, causing more heat and so on, an AGU fuse can get so hot the solder that connects the fuse "filament" to the end caps melts resulting in a poor connection, to the point the amp can not get the current it needs to make it's max RMS wattage, so the amp cuts out.

Replacing the fuse is cheap and easy to do, and may just be your problem.

Running a ground one way because it looks good over running it to get a proper ground is not a wise thing to do, it is critical to the amps operation that you have a good ground.94

 

Nah its not the type of fuse.. its like a Huge version of your average car fuse... But the ground worked fine for my old sub... but like I said, that system wasnt bridged. it was hooked up + and - both on the left side.....

 

guys, I have a questionL If I dont bridge the set up will it hurt anything? It doesnt want to stay on when I have it bridged, but it works jsut fine when I test it when its not bridged.. let me know. thanks!

 

How are you testing it when it's not bridged????

You have one SVC 4 ohm sub and unless you plan on using just one channel of the amp to drive the sub you can not run it unbridged, running it in 2ch mode and using only one channel will not hurt the amp but it cuts power to the sub by 50% and that would be underpowered. 94

Question, are you sure the sub is a 4 ohm and not a 2 ohm, the amp is acting like it has a 2 ohm load, protection circuit is kicking in, is the indicator light red when amp turns off.
The Sony protection circuit will "turn amp off" if it over heats, is over-driven into clipping, [producing DC current] or if speakers short out, a 2 ohm load when bridged is like a short to the amp.

Confirm sub is a 4 ohm and let me know.94

 

The sub is 4 ohm for sure. The amp indicator life just dims when the bass hits, and then turns off.. It doesnt turn red or anything. Its really pissing me off though.

 

If light dims when bass hits it's a current problem, so your back to a problem with power or ground, if amp works properly in 2ch mode then it should work properly in mono, more wattage means more current is needed, the amp cuts out when bass hits, max current demand is when bass hits, back to a problem with current.

Why not change the ground point, [shorten ground lead and ground using an existing stud or bolt in the floor pan] what do you have to loose, other then the problem.
Grounding is the number one issue when amps have problems, it is the reason it has been suggested here more then once.
If you redo the ground and the problem is not solved we can at least eliminate it as the problem, and you can say "I told you so". 94

 

okok I will change the ground...