I have an 06' Solo-Baric sub S15L7, i was just wondering if you guys out there had any experience with them. I heard they were real good so i got it. But i havent had a chance to install it. And what kind of amp should i get to push it?

TIA.

 

any good deceint mono block amp that is a 1000watts rms would do you fine, Kicker makes a couple that are good for you. If you want to stay name brand. There are a couple of other out there like mtx, soundstream, zapco, memphis, and rockford. What kind of budget are you on.

 

Im looking to spend around $300. If i dont sell it.
Thanks for the help. Has anybody had this sub in a hatch?

 

Does anybody know if i should buy a specified Kicker box, or just buy a whatever box? And is there a difference? Thanks.

 

Im guessing Kicker isnt a popular brand.

 

Kicker tends to have VERY sloppy subs. Transient response isn't their strong point. If SQ is your goal, you bought the wrong sub. If you want all out loudness, then your in business. Im not gonna lie, I'm not familiar with kicker boxes.

 

just out of curiosity, what about the L series subs makes them have poor transient response?

keeping in mind that with subwoofers, transient response/group delay is largely determined by the enclosure.

 

Damn, so is this type of speaker just for competitions? Should i get a different one? Because i have the four pioneers i used to have in my old hatch, and it was perfect mid's and hi's. Its just that i had a bazooka for bass, but it wasnt enough.

Thanks for all the info.

 

Help.

 

Anybody?

 

 

There is nothing wrong with the sub, in fact it is a pretty good one, you will need an amp that makes 1000W RMS into 1 or 4 ohms or 2 or 8 ohms, depending on if you have a DVC 2ohm or a DVC 4 ohm sub.

Do not buy a generic box for the sub, custom make one or use a kicker box, Here is all the info you need to decide on a box... http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-...B.pdf 94

 

There is nothing necessarily wrong with that speaker it just that they are not accurate subs. If you want tight and accurate bass go with JL audio subs you can not go wrong with those. For a hatch 1 12" W3v2 would be a good match for the rest of your system. They are relatively inexpensive. If you want to sell the solo-baric you can use that money to buy a good JL sub.

 

Its a 2 ohm. But im a noob when it comes to speakers, so i dont know whats better? A 2 or 4 ohm? And i just picked up a 1983 widebody Porsche, so i might put it in there. Or if anybody wants to buy my solobaric, throw me an offer. And thanks for the info.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1Ek 1Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a 2 ohm. But im a noob when it comes to speakers, so i dont know whats better? A 2 or 4 ohm? And i just picked up a 1983 widebody Porsche, so i might put it in there. Or if anybody wants to buy my solobaric, throw me an offer. And thanks for the info. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothings better or worse about different ohm configs.
Just what you can run your amp at comes into play.

Dual 2 wiring options= 1ohm or 4ohm
Dual 4 wiring options= 2ohm or 8ohm

 

How much should a 1000watt amp run for? So i dont get put together on the price. And does your HU make a difference on how the system will sound?

Thanks.

 

1000W amps start at $200 +, if you want a good one expect to pay $500 +, if you want a real good one, $1000 +.

You should have no problem getting a 1000W amp to run your sub for around $500, look for an amp that makes 1000W RMS into 4 ohms @ 12.5V, or a better one something like this... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=221 a very good one.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skip01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nothings better or worse about different ohm configs.</TD></TR></TABLE> Not so, lowering the impedance load on an amp will change the amps "dampening" characteristic's and unless its a "regulated" amp, [like the JL Audio slash amps] wattage will double when load is cut by 1/2, [a 500W into 4 ohm amp will become a 1000W into 2 ohms amp] also heat will increase when impedance is lowered, among other things. 94

 

How about a Hifonics amp? Cuz i can get a new one for like 300 bucks off my friend. I just dont know if its a good amp. He says it will push my sub easily.
Appreciate the help.
OH! One more question, i've always wondered what made the sub sound better. Making it face the back of the car or towards the front?
THANKS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1Ek 1Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about a Hifonics amp? Cuz i can get a new one for like 300 bucks off my friend. I just dont know if its a good amp. He says it will push my sub easily.
Appreciate the help.
OH! One more question, i've always wondered what made the sub sound better. Making it face the back of the car or towards the front?
THANKS.</TD></TR></TABLE> what is the model number of the amp?

Generally the farther the sound wave has to travel the better, so in most cars facing the back is preferred, however there is no right or wrong way to face it, what sounds the best to you is the correct way, don't forget to try reversing the "phase" of the sub, [no matter which way it's facing] if your HU or the amp you get does not have a "phase" switch, just reverse the subs speaker wires on the amp, try it both ways, "in phase" with the rest of the system and 180 deg. "out of phase" with the rest of the system. You will like it one way better then the other, and it does make a big diff. 94

 

good budget amp, Make sure to upgrade the power and ground cables thou. You should not have any problems with that amp if it is in good condition. whats the model # of the amp?

 

Im not sure about the model number, but i'll find out.

And is "phase" just switching the cables, or something most HU's come with? Sorry about the noob question.

 

Some HUs and some amps have a phase switch, but yes you can switch phase by just switching the pos. (+) and neg. (-) speaker wire. 94

 

Damn, i guess i have much to learn still.
And why do people sometimes put there speakers facing into their boxes?

 

I actually think the L7 15 is more of an SPL sub and if you want an overall flat response you probably gonna need some mid bass drivers.

 

So should i just get rid of it?
How are the comp VR's? Or am i just wasting my time sticking with Kicker. Because i want some nice clean bass, but if this Kicker isnt happening then i'll get rid of it.
Does anyone know somebody that might want this? Just in case.
Thanks.