mechanix619

Ha yeah. Even Dynamat is expensive for what it actually is. Some people use Peal & Seal, the name is different at various hardware stores. I've found that Dynamat, or the other "name" bands, are stickier. I've used Peal & Seal and after one hot summer the material started to come off.

I just bit the bullet and purchased Dynamat products in fear of the other stuff not working well. I didn't want to spend the money twice.

Second Skin has some cheaper alternatives and it's still a top brand. RAAMmat as well.

RA100923

True. For actual vibration dampener, I think Dynamat is King; that's a product they've pioneered and spent years perfecting. But closed cell foam is closed cell foam, know what I mean? Regardless of the dynamat logo on it, they have the same physical properties. So I'm hoping this other stuff works just as well.

mechanix619

Totally, I hope it turns out well.

RA100923

So the stuff I was raving about, that I found at Home Depot as a replacement for closed cell foam - turned out to be something else. It was sheathing that's not pliable or mold-able. Just a flat, solid sheet of sheathing.

Instead - went back to the fabric store and bought 5 yards of 1/2" thick high-density foam. Laid that on my floors and stuff inside the doors, above the dynamat.

A quick drive - still without the door panels - and there's a noticeable difference.
For the floor, I may call it quits and reinstall the carpet. I don't think the mass loaded vinyl will make much more of a difference. Besides, the roll of MLV I bought may not be enough for my floor + doors, so I may just use it on the doors.

Remember, I also have 1" of high density foam stuffed on the inside of my door panels. So that + 1/2" foam inside the door + dynamat + a layer of MLV and I should get the results I'm hoping for.

I'll keep you posted...

Pics are coming soon...

RA100923

1/2" foam on the floors...

just_dung

iTrader: (2)

I've been selling car audio since 2007 and trust when I saw dynamat works! For I have a hatch and that thing is a tin can on wheels, put them on the doors and quarter panel and you'll hear a huge difference. Noise suppression is very expensive so weight out how much it'll cost. I get my stuff at cost so that door kit you purchase so be no more than $37 with tax.

RA100923

Inside the doors...

just_dung

iTrader: (2)

I hope that car foam is closed cell otherwise you'll get moisture stuck in them and they'll stink.

RA100923

I also used Loctite spray adhesive to get the foam to stick to the metal

RA100923

Yeah it's the same foam used inside furniture - so it has to be resistant to moisture and weather elements. It's almost exactly like the Dynaliner that I bought.

mechanix619

I hope the foam in the doors doesn't become an issue. That layer typically goes on the inside panel.

What stuff from Home Depot turned out to be crap?

RA100923

The Owens Corning Foamular. Not that it's crap, just that it's not the closed cell foam I was expecting.

And I'll pay close attention to the foam I'm using, if I notice any odors or complications I'll quickly pull it out. But really I don't think there will be a problem

RA100923

So I reinstalled my carpet tonight along with all the trim pieces, then went for a quick test drive (still haven't installed the door panels).

Wow what a difference. The Dynamat + foam + OEM carpet really quieted down the road noise. Bumps in the road can hardly be felt and heard. Before, every bump was back-breaking. Now, only slightly noticeable.

Can't wait to get the door panels on after I apply the MLV to see the real difference!

mechanix619

SWEET!

Maybe for my next project I'll just use Dynamat and the foam.

Did you use the Acoustical Barrier at all? Or is that what you're using as MLV?

RA100923

The acoustical barrier/MLV will be delivered on Monday. Got an 8 ft. roll of it from Home Depot for $30. I'll hang that on the doors then call it a day for sound proofing

mechanix619

Also, it looks like you used maybe two Dynamat door kits on the floor. If that's the case that's pretty good. I don't remember exactly but the Dynamat "floor" kit is pretty expensive. But they expect people to cover the entire floor.

RA100923

I only bought the dynamat extreme pack (posted a pic of it on page 1). Came with 9 sheets. Still have 1 sheet left over lol, after doing the 4 doors, roof and rear shelf. The pack cost $140 from amazon.

just_dung

iTrader: (2)

Nice ! I'm glad you got the right foam, didn't want you to take everything apart in the event you a seal wears out and leak water.

RA100923

My roll of MLV that I ordered from Home Depot arrived today. I haven't taken it out of the package to fully inspect it, but I did take a peek at it.

It's definitely heavy. 22 lbs for an 8 ft x 4 ft roll. Looks like fiberglass on one side, and rubber on the other. It's pliable, but stiff. The pamphlets included with it claim that it literally blocks sound/noise.

I'm looking forward to installing it this Friday. I'll know it will definitely turn my box cutter knife into a spoon lol.

Just wondering what type of adhesive I'll need to use for it to stick to the metal of the inner skin?

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Its better to do the whole door instead of cutting lil strips and placing it all over the place. Also doing the door skin is not reccommended cause the car will did easy. Very easy that I will not ever do it on anymore of my personal cars. Or reccomend doing it.

RA100923

the car will what very easy?

mechanix619

I think he meant to say dent.

It's a risk that's for sure. But mines been find for eight years.

RA100923

Hey man what do you recommend I use to "stick" the MLV to the metal of the inner skin?

mechanix619

Velcro strips; corners, middle, ect.

It doesn't actually have to bond to the entire surface.

RA100923

I read that in Sound Deadener Showdown to use velcro strips for measuring...then to use some "3M Liquid Cement" or something for it to bond...?