DO I need 4ohm or 8ohm sub?
I'm getting mixed answers here.
I have a Kenwood KAC-8403 4/3/2 Channel Amp. I am running 2 speakers (4ohm each) in front (1 channel each) and bridging 2 channels for the sub, therefore I'll be running in 3 channel mode.
I've been told that I need an 8 ohm sub because I'm bridging 2 channels. I've also been told I need 4 ohm. Both by knowledgeable people. Which is it, so I can order the sub already!
I called Kenwood, as well as Crutchfield. I also talked to other people. Completely conflicted for some reason.
I have a Kenwood KAC-8403 4/3/2 Channel Amp. I am running 2 speakers (4ohm each) in front (1 channel each) and bridging 2 channels for the sub, therefore I'll be running in 3 channel mode.
I've been told that I need an 8 ohm sub because I'm bridging 2 channels. I've also been told I need 4 ohm. Both by knowledgeable people. Which is it, so I can order the sub already!
I called Kenwood, as well as Crutchfield. I also talked to other people. Completely conflicted for some reason.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use a dual 4ohm sub. Bridge it at 2ohms, and you'll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>Sorry, he will not be fine.
The Kenwood 4CH amp is not stable at 2 ohms when bridged.
What he needs is a 4ohm, [or DVC 2ohm wired in series for a 4ohm load] with a continuous power handling, [RMS power]equal to or a little less then the amps rated RMS power output into a 4 ohm load when bridged.
An 8ohm sub would work, but it would cut the amps output by about 50% on the bridged channels
94
The Kenwood 4CH amp is not stable at 2 ohms when bridged.
What he needs is a 4ohm, [or DVC 2ohm wired in series for a 4ohm load] with a continuous power handling, [RMS power]equal to or a little less then the amps rated RMS power output into a 4 ohm load when bridged.
An 8ohm sub would work, but it would cut the amps output by about 50% on the bridged channels
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, he will not be fine.
The Kenwood 4CH amp is not stable at 2 ohms when bridged.
What he needs is a 4ohm, [or DVC 2ohm wired in series for a 4ohm load] with a continuous power handling, [RMS power]equal to or a little less then the amps rated RMS power output into a 4 ohm load when bridged.
An 8ohm sub would work, but it would cut the amps output by about 50% on the bridged channels
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
The Kenwood 4CH amp is not stable at 2 ohms when bridged.
What he needs is a 4ohm, [or DVC 2ohm wired in series for a 4ohm load] with a continuous power handling, [RMS power]equal to or a little less then the amps rated RMS power output into a 4 ohm load when bridged.
An 8ohm sub would work, but it would cut the amps output by about 50% on the bridged channels
94</TD></TR></TABLE>Agreed.
Your Final load on the amp should be no lower than 3 ohms !!
your choices are
- SVC (single voice coil) 1 4 ohm sub/ 2 8 ohm svc
- DVC (dual voice coil) 1 8 ohm dvc/ 2 4 ohm dvc/ 1 2 ohm dvc)
for the unltimate use 3 8 ohm svc subs. The final load will be 2.8 ohms.
your choices are
- SVC (single voice coil) 1 4 ohm sub/ 2 8 ohm svc
- DVC (dual voice coil) 1 8 ohm dvc/ 2 4 ohm dvc/ 1 2 ohm dvc)
for the unltimate use 3 8 ohm svc subs. The final load will be 2.8 ohms.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bobash69x2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I forsee a clipped signal in your future if you run under 4 ohms...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Eh? It shouldn't clip, just go in to protect, or maybe work just fine. I've ran amps below their suggested impedance ratings before and I've never had any problems.
That being said, I would never try it on my own car
</TD></TR></TABLE>Eh? It shouldn't clip, just go in to protect, or maybe work just fine. I've ran amps below their suggested impedance ratings before and I've never had any problems.
That being said, I would never try it on my own car
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