I have a 4-channel amp (Alpine MRV-F345) [http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/product...odel=MRV-F345] hooked up to my Alpine 9833 headunit (its crossovers are pretty much fully adjustable)

The amp is hooked up to front components and rear 4-ways.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what to set my crossover frequencies? Most guides say to set the amp's crossover a small bit above the headunits, but my headunit doesn't have a fixed frequency. Any suggestions for what to set the frequency on the head unit?

Any help would greatly be appreciated. I have searched long and hard.
Specifics about the speakers can be supplied if needed.

-C

 

you say your headunit has a built in x-over. Set your amp for pass-thru or full range. This will by-pass the amps built in x-over. use the x-over offf the headunit. What kind of speakers and what size they are will determine your x-over point. Plus the way you listen to your music will play a factor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you say your headunit has a built in x-over. Set your amp for pass-thru or full range. This will by-pass the amps built in x-over. use the x-over offf the headunit. What kind of speakers and what size they are will determine your x-over point. Plus the way you listen to your music will play a factor. </TD></TR></TABLE>Ditto the above, yes the Alpine CDA-9833 is a full load HU 2 or 3 way x-over, time correction, EQ, bass focus, 3 preamp outputs, [4V]
One thing I would ask, are you running a subZnypar? 94

 

neg on the sub. not looking for big time thump from bass. just clarity and nice thump. i do have a sub though. I took it out and added the 4 channel amp in its place. I really just need the space in my trunk.

off the top of my head about my speakers, im not sure but ill check tomorrow, i believe my rears are 380 watt max 80 watt optimal. not sure about those numbers, maybe its 320. regardless, i have no distortion problems with the fronts because i have a hardware crossover on them. the rears have trouble with deeper bass, and seem to max out when some bass hits. i assume this could be fixed by tuning the HU though.

but like i said, im not looking for something to massage people sitting in the back seats. just a nice crisp bass. i feel like im not giving enough information to you guys though. ill get the speaker specifics tomorrow

-C

 

i meant to say 80 watt continuous. i know that number is true. the amp is 75 watt rms to those channels, so that should match up well.

to clarify on the distortion that i have right now, its only in the much lower bass levels when it hits (not continous sound so much). it seems to just max out the speaker. all other ranges are fine and crystal clear

 

If your not running a sub, [no biggie, I don't] just cross the speakers over as low as they will go without distorting.

I have an Alpine CDA-7893 and 4 Eclipse 6.5" 2ways, [tweeters disabled on the rears, no off board amp, just HU power, stock wiring, although HUs constant, [yellow] is connected to batt. and I have done extensive custom work in mounting the speakers in the stock locations, to get the best sound possible out of them.

You have the HU to get great sound out of the system, but I would suggest you replace the rear "4ways" get a set of mid bass drivers, imaging and staging will be much better. 94

 

will I still get the treble? also, i saw on other posts about boxing in the rear speakers... worth the fabrication do you think? sounds like a fun project. im driving an EK civic btw.

what if I put the sub/amp combo I have back in the car and put the fronts and rears on mid-high rather than full range. I have a 12" RF Punch p3 sub driven by an RF p3001 mono amp. worth keeping? or sell it and get those mid bass drivers?

for the HU, i have Power-IC set to off, this isn't effecting my HU's crossover output is it?

you are wayyy too helpful fcm lol

 

As I said I do not run a sub or amp, just HU power, but I did put a lot of time into speaker mounting, the fronts are mounted to custom MDF mounting "plates", [replacing the oem plastic ones] and the rears, [that I just disconnected the tweeters on] are in custom MDF and fiberglass cabinets.
Extensive Dynamating was done in the doors, including replacing the vapor barrier with a single sheet of Dynamat, sealing the doors as well as can be, some Dynamating was also done in the rear.
All speakers are in the stock locations, behind stock grills.

I often demo my system for customers, to show them what can be done without amps and subs, some have said I must have a sub and amp hidden in the car someplace, my replay is always the same, "if you can find a sub and or amp in the the car other then the HU amp you can have the car", needless to say I still have the car

It is amazing the SQ and bass response you can get out of a system by just installing the speakers properly, now having an Alpine HU with the kind of "sound control" it has sure doesn't hurt either 94

 

http://www.bizrate.com/marketp....html

those are my rear speakers, although I didn't actually buy them from that site.

 

Well I guess you could do just what I did, disconnect the "tweeters", worked for me. 94

 

nah, I want to keep the treble. im driving a civic EK coupe. so it would be nice for the people in the back of the car. I worked with the crossovers today and developed a nice crisp base. Now i just need to work with my gains. im slowly starting to figure out all of this audio stuff. so far it has worked out quite nicely .

i think next step will be dynamat in the doors, then I'll work on the speaker mounts. on the back panel I want to add a brace to suppress the panel's vibration. after that I'll investigate the fiberglass work with the rears that you have done.

 

im with fcm, disable tweets in rears. although it would be nice for people in the backseat, overall.. whose ears are going to hear and appreciate the music more? i think yours

as well as you will "feel" "more" bass with the tweeters disabled in the rears.
give it a try.

 

now by tweeters, that would be the other 3 channels correct?

 

what if I just set the amp to low-pass on those rear speakers?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Znypar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if I just set the amp to low-pass on those rear speakers?</TD></TR></TABLE> The rear speakers are not subs, if you run them LP you will only destroy them, as for the rear pass., they serve no useful purpose, they add weight to the car, decrease gas mileage, have a negative effect on handling, slow you down among other things, they do not deserve no stinking highs. 94

 

If you even run rears Run them in mono as they are only there for fill anyway.