mikesdb7

i recently installed a compustar remote start, and since then my locks randomly and repeatedly lock and unlock, while driving and as it sits there, if its running or its turned off. it is driving me crazy. please help! the car is a 95 4 dr integra with manual trans.

B18C_EJ8

Bet you dollars to donuts your ground sucks...

Where did you ground the unit? Let me guess... Inside the dash to a metal support?

fcm

Ditto the above^^^^

Check that ground.

What Compustar do you have and where did you get it?

Where did you connect the door lock outputs from the Compustar to in the car, what are the wire colors?

How did you make all your alarm wire connections to the cars wiring? 94

mikesdb7

i have to tear it all apart to find out. thanks for the input.

B18C_EJ8

You have to tear it apart to find out where you grounded it? You don't remember?

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

That thing is stealth lol. What kind of doughnuts?........hummmm

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikesdb7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have to tear it all apart to find out. thanks for the input. </TD></TR></TABLE> What did you find out? 94

mikesdb7

i didn't do the install, so no i don't really know. a friend and audio installer of 14 years did the work, we soldered all the wires and used shrink tubing, the job looks clean, everything works perfect. but about a month after the install is when my locks started going crazy. to be honest i don't have a clue where he grounded the system, i would assume it is tied into an existing ground...or. i know i'm not much help but i don't know jack about electrical systems. the basics maybe. someone else i know had the same problem in the same car, and didn't have any audio or remote start.

fcm

Stick you head up under the dash, find alarm brain, find black lead, [CN1/8, plug with heavy gauge leads] fallow/trace black lead to where it's grounded/connected, it should be the chassis of the car not to some other ground lead.

Try this, unplug CN4, [6 pin connector, with no more then 4 leads] it has the door lock outputs, blue and blue/black, may still also have violet/white, [trunk release] and orange/black, [2nd pulse unlock], see if problem with door locks is still there or not, maybe problem is the the cars door lock module, maybe it's ground is bad.

Also...
Where did you get the Compustar? 94

mikesdb7

my buddy had a bunch of them laying around, so we put together the ones that were complete and sold them, mine being one of them. there were no boxes or packaging so i don't know the model #.

B18C_EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Stick you head up under the dash, find alarm brain, </TD></TR></TABLE>

mikesdb7

so it is grounded to a good source, and i disconected the wires for the door locks and the problem still exists, but strangely not as bad, but definately still locking and unlocking randomly, especially after i unlock the door and close it. it will lock instantly wether i'm in or out of the car. now what.

B18C_EJ8

Define good source.

fcm

Your problem is in the OEM door lock module, [possibly the ground to it] it has to be if the Compustar is no longer connected to the door locks and you still have a problem. 94

mikesdb7

it is grounded to the chassis, has been brushwheeled and cleaned. we disconected the door lock wires, and the problem continued. i tore apart the door and pulled apart the lock module. all the pinnouts on the board look good, no cracks in the solder, nothing loose. but my lock button, the one next to the lever to open the door is broken. and the rod that connects it has been kind of flailing around. do you think that could be the problem? like maybe it is trigering the locks some how. but that still dosen't explain why my locks still click off/on while the car is off and sitting there.

fcm

Yes the problem with the door lock is probably the problem, your car has "central locking", [locking and unlocking the drivers door will lock and unlock the other door(s)] the drivers door actuator has a switch in it that triggers the door lock module.

Fix that problem and it will fix the "crazy door locks" or you can depin the blue/white lead at the door lock module, that will fix the "crazy door locks" but not the problem with the switch. 94

mikesdb7

finally some resolve. thanks everyone, even the haters. i really didn't think it was the way the system was hooked up. the guy that did the work has been doing this something like 14 years. and when you talk about stealth, yea... it's pimp. well looks like i'll be heading to the junk yard to replace my door handle. i can't believe after all that it was something so little. thanks again. -mike

02cr5

Why is it that the 6 pin connector only has 4 leads? I know that the other 2 leads should be a 12v constant and ground connection but, why are they not included? the only reason why I am asking is because I bought an aftermarket central locking door kit and wondering where I can connect the 12v constant and ground to. Would it be bad if I connected it to the remote starter unit? if it's there, why not use it, right? any help would be appreciated

fcm

LOL, you know this tread is from 07, right?

If you mean the 6 pin connector I refer to, [CN4] on the Compustar alarm, it only has 4 leads because that is all Compustar supplies in the connector and as mentioned the 4 are trunk unlock, [release] 2nd unlock pulse, unlock and lock, the two other pin locations are empty as they have no functions, possibly for future use..

Never connect wiring from one "component" to another.

Ground the unit to to the cars chassis, there are a number of chassis ground point for the cars dash harness, use one of them or make your own.
The 12V+ constant should be connected to a batt. source, depending on the MM&Y of your car it may have power "free pins" on the under dash fuse box. 94

02cr5

lol, yeah, i noticed that, but every time i searched power doors, this was the only thread that came up.

As for CN4, the compustar unit I have has 6 pins coming out of the door lock module connection. Now the white wiring connector is a 6 pin connector that only comes with 4 wires, again, trunk, pulse lock, unlock and lock. Now, looking at a wiring diagram and also the back of my unit, it says that pin 1 on the module is (-) and pin 6 is (+). I'm only guessing that these could be for a ground and 12v constant respectively. So I tested it and it worked with my power door locks. So, I would assume that this is what it was designed for.

Then it got me thinking, why wouldn't they just include the wires for the ground and 12V constant?

And then I remembered seeing Mighty Car Mods video, "Pimp your ride for under $500." He said when installing power doors, you always want to connect straight to the battery because if anything else fails, you always want to have power to your doors. Made sense so I ended up going that route anyway.

Thanks for the reply fcm, you are very knowledgeable and kind enough to share it with us all, again, thanks.

fcm

YW.
Again, the two extra terminals are for future use, if they have not already, Compustar most likely will have polarity reversing relay to plug in there for cars that have pos.(+) triggered door locks. 94