I can't find this stupid wire, I jsut baught the car from my friend, he took out his deck and I want to put mine in but I can't find the wire, I'm assuming it's yellow, and I'v tested all the other wires.

I need help, can someone please tell me if it actually is yellow ? and where it's hiding ?

 

youre talking at the deck, right ?

try White/ Yellow

also, you may have popped its fuse, so make sure you're all good in the fuse boxes ( inc. the one under the hood) before you go any further.

 

there is none, no yellow and no white/yellow


I have a 92 DX HB btw.. not that it matters

 

I had the same problem...just run a new wire directly from the battery. I ran some 12 gauge wire with an inline fuse...easier than pulling your hair out looking for some wire in the stock harness.

 

I'd rather do a clean job though,
is dash is off, does anyone know where the "constant power" is running anywere else ? I though it would be in the clock's wires.. but I can't find it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Freezing-acid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd rather do a clean job though,
is dash is off, does anyone know where the "constant power" is running anywere else ? I though it would be in the clock's wires.. but I can't find it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

check to make sure the radio fuse under the hood isn't blown. If it is, you won't find the wire in the dash as you'll never find the +12 there. My guess is this is what's happened.

 

A "clean" job would be to run a new wire, better quality, and then you know exactly where it is, your head unit will preform better anyway

 

"your head unit will preform better anyway"


discuss.

 

there will be less of a chance of your radio dimming because you can get more power by running a wire from the batt and making a new ground. the stock wiring is small and wasn't intended for using high wattage decks. Most stock decks are 8-10Watts per ch. after markets are twice as much as that. so your radio won't be starving for power.

 

hmmm, some good points, I was under the impression that the internal amp was powered off the accessory wire, not the constant 12 +. can anyone verify this ?

 

I fixed the problem

If you follow the yellow constant wire were your deck is it goes to your Hazard light switch and is connected to a white/green wire that goes into a black tube and to your battery. I had checked all the fuses in my car but not the ones under the hood, because I figured that the ones under the hood were all High Amp fuses like 30, 40, and 50 not a 10A fuse... Any ways I checked... And sure enough it said hazard lights 10A, and it was blown

So for all your guys how have this problem, now you know what to do, if it's your deck losing the time every time you turn off the key or if your hazard won’t turn on. Check that lil bitch of a fuse under the hood.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuradriva &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Most stock decks are 8-10Watts per ch. after markets are twice as much as that. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Actually.. Stock should be 36W

cause you have a 12V power supply (battery), and 4 ohms speakers. so to calculate the watts you have to do:

V = Volts
R = resistance (ohms)
P = Power (watts)

P=(v*v)/R = P=(12*12)/4 = 36Watts


so if you want more then 36 watts you need to double your power source or get your ohms down to 2.

unless I'm missing something and stock decks don't even get 12V to start with.. don't quote me on this.

 

the amp inside the deck converts the dc to ac and cant do that 100%efficantly. plus the impedence of the speaker changes with what ever freq its playing at. Hook a speaker up to a meter and push it in and out. the resistance moves up and down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nOOber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm, some good points, I was under the impression that the internal amp was powered off the accessory wire, not the constant 12 +. can anyone verify this ?


</TD></TR></TABLE>
the red wire is just like a remote wire for an amp. it' just turns the hu on. thats it.

 

yeap, remember you're talking resistance (DC) whereas speakers are an impeadence (more so to do with the AC). 4 ohms impeadence isn't going to be 4 ohms resistance when measured with DC (such as a Fluke meter). Also, the 12V's going into the radio doesn't mean it's 12V's going out the speaker lines, plus the internal amps boost the power reguardless of what power is going in.