no_money2supe

Background info:
-93 civic (manual of course)
-CM5000 CompuStar brain (alarm/starter with blade model)

I'm installing everything myself and everything with the starter/alarm portion works other than the clutch bypass. I could simply just bridge the power and ground off the clutch and permanent bypass the clutch, but I want to do it right.

Anyhow, right now I have the 2nd starter output from the CN3 connector of the brain connected to the 85 socket on the relay. A constant 12V wire is connected from the main CN1 connector of the brain to the 86 and 87 sockets of the relay. Lastly, 30 off the relay is connected to the positive side of my clutch line. It's also how the installation manual schematically shows it.

From my understanding, the 2nd Starter output from the brain provides a ground for the clutch, but is not bridged while the car starter is not on. As the car starter starts the car, the relay allows the clutch to see a ground to start the car. Am I correct with my understanding?

Well, lo and behold, the car doesn't start. I know everything else is hooked up right 'cause when I manually depress the clutch while the CompuStar is attempting to start the car, it works. Can anyone help? TIA!

audiophyle_247

There should be 2 wires running from the clutch switch, they connect together when you press the clutch switch in.

Run a wire from 1 of them to relay socket 80 & a wire from the other to relay socket 87. You do not need to apply 12v to the wires, just connect them together. The wires to 85 & 86 should be okay the way they are.

no_money2supe

I tried running the positive wire off the clutch to relay socket 30, and just simply finding a ground for both relay sockets 87 and 86. Theoretically, would that not be the same as grounding the other clutch wire as it's a ground wire anyway? However, for some reason, the car still does not start using the remote starter. Is my theory correct?

Also, for the resident Civic owners out there, is there another clutch wire(s) I could tap into? I'm currently using the "Clutch Interlock Switch" (as per schematics) positive wire (the blue/black one) connected to the top of the clutch pedal, but it's an expletive to get into. I also don't trust myself with a soldering gun a few inches above my face; my splices on the clutch wire is currently just electrical taped on. Is that hazardous by any chance?

Thanks all in advance!

no_money2supe

I noticed in the CN3 connector off the brain, there's a "Status/Ground while running 250mA negative (-) output" wire. Should I be connecting that to the clutch positive wire instead? The installation manual says it's commonly used to trigger bypass / transponder modules though.

fcm

No relay is needed, use the "Status" output, connect it to the output of the CIS, [probably a black/blue lead] or it can be connected directly to the starter relays input from the CIS.

The "Status" lead will supply the ground needed, [low current] by the starter relay during remote start mode.

BTW you could also use the neg.(-) 2nd starter output, it also would be connected to the output of the CIS or the input to the starter relay.

The only diff. between the two leads is the status output is a ground from the time you press remote start until remote start is shut down the 2nd starter output is ground only during crank to start.

Either one will work just as well. 94

jay24k

Not sure on that alarm, but you might need a diode. On mine everytime I hit the clutch it would activate the starter.

no_money2supe

No diodes or relays were needed. FCM's direction with using either the "Status/Ground" or the "2nd Starter Output" (both -250mA outputs) did the trick. I opted for the "2nd Starter Output" connected to the clutch positive wire option. Thanks for the help!

Next question (I may have to post in a new thread if this goes unanswered), I have the "Accessory +12V output" wire (white) from the brain hooked up to the "Accessory/HVAC" wire (yellow) on the car, but when I set the car in reservation mode, once the keys are pulled, the HVAC and radio turn off; similarly when the car starter is activated. I've checked multiple schematics for my car and they all say the yellow wire is the Accessory/HVAC wire. What am I doing wrong here? Really, the car starter is just for warming up the engine and I can just as easily turn on the fan when I have my key in the car, but it'd be nice to walk into a warm interior as well.

EDIT: I also have the starter-kill relay hooked up to the starter wire. Would that have anything to do with my HVAC/accessories not turning on when the car is on with no key?

fcm

You may be correct, if using the neg.(-) starter output a diode may be needed if the remote start neg.(-) starter output is not internally diode isolated.

" opted for the "2nd Starter Output" connected to the clutch positive wire option. Thanks for the help!" "positive wire option"??????

Starter kill will have nothing to do with the HVAC, whatever settings the HVAC controls are on when reservation mode is shut down, [close door] is what they will be when care is remote started, is this not happening? 94

no_money2supe

Of the 2 wires connected to the CIS, I'm referring to the wire that "sees ground" when the clutch is depressed. I figured it's a positive wire; hence my phrasing.

What happens is the moment I pull out the key from the "On" position (#2 on Hondas), essentially when I'm putting the car into reservation mode, the HVAC turns off (the HVAC controls are/were on to begin with). The same occurs when the car is started using the remote starter - the car turns on but neither the HVAC nor the radio turn on even though the settings were on before taking out the key.

In the ignition harness coming off of the steering column, there are 5 cables: ignition, starter, accessory/HVAC, constant 12V, and another unknown one (black/white on the car). I connected each of the wires from CN1 to the similarly labelled wires on the car. The only one that was left unspliced onto was the black/white unknown one. I even tried connecting the accessory/HVAC wire from the brain into this unknown wire but to no avail. I don't see what else I could've done wrong. The fuses shouldn't be blown 'cause the HVAC obviously turn on when the key is in and the car is on. The HVAC only turns off when the key is taken out. It almost seems as though the accessory/HVAC wire is not receiving the 12V power it needs when the remote starter is used.