hey guys i posted a while back and i finally got my memphis m-class component speakers. on the crossover, there is a high and a low input. i plan on installing them with my stock speaker wiring for now so i just use the high input right? then run the high out to the tweeter and the low out to the mid? also is it worth it to add an amplifier? opinions are very helpful.

 

What do they RMS at? I just bought two sets of infinity reference components for my WRX and they sound good, lacking some low end running of an apline ida-x001 you will be missing out on alot of the low end without the amp. I say amp em!

 

i might. so i would need a 6 channel then? 4 channels for the mids and tweeters, and the other 2 for the rears?

 

Your x-overs are "bi-ampable", there should be a switch or jumpers that connects the high and low inputs so you can just use I channel for each side,
If you spent the time and money to get components, you should get an amp to drive them, a 2ch amp will do, get a 4ch if you want to run them bi-amped, you can run the rear speakers off the HU, or 2 channels of a 4ch amp, wire the rear speakers in series and bridge the 2 channels into mono for the rears.

With a 6ch amp you can bi-amp the fronts and bridge the last 2 channels for the rears. 94

 

all confusing to me lol, but ill try. i found an older style rockford fosgate 400 watt 4 channel at a local store for 150$ good buy? how would you set these up? 4 channel? 6 channel? you seem very experienced with this stuff......
thanks

 

Bi-amping is by powering the woofer and tweeter sections independantly. So, with a 4ch amp, you can send the Fronts (of the amp) to the tweeters, and the Rears to the woofers. It offers better control of the speakers and makes better use of the amps' power.

 

im lookin at the crossover. it has two three prong connectors sticking out , labled bi amp on top, and standard on the bottom. there are little plastic things that slide off of these connectors, like plugs? then there is the same thing for the db level of the tweeter. how do i adjust or change these? ill post pics if needed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HighlineCA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bi-amping is by powering the woofer and tweeter sections independantly. So, with a 4ch amp, you can send the Fronts (of the amp) to the tweeters, and the Rears to the woofers. It offers better control of the speakers and makes better use of the amps' power.</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto that.

A model number for the amp would help.

How you set the "jumpers", [bi amp/standard] will depend on if you want to bi amp or not, to change you slide the plastic thing off and slide it on to the other pin(s), the tweeter "attenuation" jumpers are used ones system is installed and up and running, they will allow you to "match" the tweeters output to the woofers/mids, if it sounds like too much/too bright/too loud, you can cut the output from the tweeter to tone them down a little, if you don't think the highs are loud enough you would install the jumper, [plastic thing] to the +dB pins, it is really personal choice to what you think sounds good.

You can run the amp in 2ch mode, 3ch mode or 4ch mode, as there is only 4ch there will be no 6ch mode. 94

PS, model numbers of amp and speakers, including rear speakers.

 

ok, here they are.
http://memphiscaraudio.com/
products&gt;speakers&gt; m class (15-msq6) with the tweeters and crossover
rears are the power reference 15-pr63
thanks

not sure on the amp model number

 

bump

 

Well you have 50W continuous, [RMS] speakers so you should have a 4x50W - 4x75 RMS into 4 ohms amp.
You will need to find the model number of the amp. 94

 

do you know of a link that can explain how ohms work ? also i know i shouldnt cheap out but does the brand of amp really have a big impact on sound?

 

Brand of amp has a huge realtaion to SQ, some brands use much nicer internal compenets which pick up less noise and are more effcient and so on...JL Vs jenson each "rated" at 1000w, the only difference is one sounds amazing one sounds like ****, oh yeah and one is a true 1000w and the other is something along the lines of 100....When looking at specs try to buy from a manufacture that rates using CEA specs

 

Yes brand name product is generally better.

http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp What is it you need to know about ohms? 94

 

im just confused about ohms in general. not sure what they are, how to change them, or anything lol. i mean i can install amps and subs and do it clean and correctly, but i am still learning . i would like to get these hooked up tonight and im thinking i may just install them with the stock wiring until i can afford a nice amplifier

 

Ohms is a measurement of electrical resistance or impedance, [Nominal impedance (Znom)] speakers have VCs, [voice coils] the coils have resistance, generally 2, 3, 4, 6 or 8 ohms, [Znom] for car audio, the actual electrical resistance, [DC Resistance (Re) of say a 4 ohm speaker can be as little as just over 3 ohms to just under 5 ohms, but will generally be between 3.75 and 4.25 ohms, but it is still designated as a 4 ohm speaker.

To "change" impedance, [ohms] you wire speakers in series or parallel, when you wire two speakers, [VCs] in parallel the impedance will be half of one of them EG; two 4 ohm subs wired in parallel is a final load of 2 ohms, wire the same two 4 ohm subs in series and the final load will be 8 ohms.

This may help... http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp 94

 

alright ill have to read up on it but thanks for clearing that up. gives me a much better idea of what im doing. i took some pictures of the crossover so i thought maybe you guys could show me how to set the pins up for bi-amp or regular and how to change the ohms on the tweeter. here they are, thanks
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
2nd pic show the little "jumper" pin

 

bump

 

Alex, don't bump and get your thread locked. You need to sit down and figure out what you want from your system. And if your up to install this. If you do not want to run two speaker wires in your door. Like you said

"i plan on installing them with my stock speaker wiring for now"

So to make things real easy on you just make the cross over non bi and run your set up

 

well i am trying to ask how to get it set it up in that manner. i have no experience with these style crossovers. i figured out that i just needed to put the jumper on the designated pins to change the ohms, but not sure how to change from bi-amp to standard

 

You can not change the ohms, [impedance] of the speaker, you can change the ohms/impedance/load that the x-over "sees" by installing a resistor in one of the leads going to the speaker or adding another speaker in parallel or series, however changing the impedance, or load, the x-over "sees" will change the x-over point.

Anyway, if you are going to run the front speakers off 2 channels leave the two BI-AMP/STANDARD jumpers on STANDARD, if you want to use a 4 channels, switch the jumpers to BI-AMP.

Either way, you should be running one 16ga speaker wire into the doors, and an 18-20 gauge if you are bi-amping, if x-over is not in the door a 22ga lead can be run into the door for the tweeter.

As I said before the tweeter "attenuation" jumper location, [0dB, -3dB, -5dB, -7dB] will be personal preference.

In both cases, the jumper is pulled off and slid back on to preferred pins with the tweeter attenuation it will be a different pair of pins, with the BI-AMP/STANDARD pins the center pin of the 3 is common and used for both BI-AMP and Standard configuration.

However you want to do it for now, run both leads into the door now, it will save a ton of time later, and not cost a lot of time now. 94

However you end

 

alright got it thanks a lot